I am working on my first model and you guys have helped tremendously already, but I have another for you. I am having a hard time with the wash. Could someone give me a step by step or some kind of breakdown? I tried using my Tamiya's with water and I'm just not getting the "expected results".

Thanks,
North

Sorry about the double post mods. Please delete one

Amigo. IMHO, acrylics aren't worth a tinker's damn for washes, exceprt maybe the Vakkejo/Andrea line. Try an enamel or oil. I'm using Payne's Gray and Van Dyke Brown on my current big and little campaign project. Thin the paint vey well and dab it along sharp edges/raised detaile, i.e. bolt heads, etc) You should a shadowy effect.
A touch of highlighting will emphasize this.

I'm with Al on this, kust the color selection changes, but it's matter of pure personal preference; I use Winsor & Newton Burnt or Raw Sienna diluted with Zippo fuel lighter (I got this tip from this very forum because it smells far a lot less than white spirit or whatever else I tried).
Ciao

I'm with the other guys on the thinned oil or enamal paints. BUT, before I do a wash, I give the model a coat of gloss.
Apply the first coat of gloss and allow it to dry. Apply your decals, use any setting solution you like, than apply another thin coat of gloss over the decals. Let dry.
Apply the wash over the glossed surface, this allows the wash to run into and around all those recessed ares ie. panel lines bolt heads etc., without the effects of friction or surface tension. The gloss coat alleviates surface tension for the wash. It goes on alot easier.
When the wash is done a dried, give the model a clear flat coat and proceed with your drybrushing.

Hi guys;

One comment I have to make, and it's not only this forum, but people are really wasting money using W&N oils for washes. You don't need W&N's fine grain top-of-line pigments for dirt. Just go to a arts and crafts place and buy run-of-the-mill Burnt Umber, Mars Black, and Burnt Sienna and they'll be half the cost of W&N. Save the good stuff for painting figures where you need the quality.

PH

Wow Paul. That is exactly what I do. I have box marked "Figure Oils" and it has of the W&N oils in it. Everything else gets the bottom shelf treatment.

Northman, Try the article in the link below. Pretty much spells it all out. Good luck and keep us posted.

Painting article

Paul I use W&N only because an arts craft store I visited a few years ago was closing down and I bougth them at 10% of their list price!!! I agree with you that you can save money with other artists oils.
Ciao

Fabio, when you get W&N's that cheap use 'em for everything!! LOL

By the way, I use "turpenoid" for all my washes and oils. It thins perfectly and dries without problems. And it's not too hot of a solvent that it melts the connection of small details on the model like turpentine does.

PH

I have had no problem with my Tamiya paints for washes. Just make sure you have the right mix of water to paint. My washes come out great!

Man I love this place, a forum of people willing to help. Thanks for the link Keenan
Sladog, what ratio are you using?

Yeah, ain't this forum great? I have learned SO much.

The ratio depends on the job. No hard and fast rules. One of the best things I found is that after you have your color mix, on small scale I just dip the brush quickly into some water and go from there. I dap some off to get a feel for how much paint/water is on the brush then wash.

Sladog, you must know some trick that I don't about washing with Tamiya paints. I always find it leaves awful tide marks (I've been driven to artists' oils). Do you use it as a sludge wash and wipe it off, or as a true wash?

As a true wash. There are a few others on this site who use it as well. Make sure you cover the entire area is what I found works.