Hosted by Darren Baker
Bases
Sladog
United States
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 11:03 PM UTC
When using wood, what do you do to the top so that it does not warp? For ground I was going to use celuclay but I did before and my base warped. Thanks.
Posted: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 11:11 PM UTC
Sladog
What you can do is give your wooden base a good varnish over it and when that is cured apply the Celluclay. i have never used celluclay before as I don`t know where to get it and if it exists here in holland then I don`t know under wich name. I usually use wallspackle but before I use the wallspackle I first lay a layer of styrofoam on top of my base and then I apply the wallspackle. No warping with this method
What you can do is give your wooden base a good varnish over it and when that is cured apply the Celluclay. i have never used celluclay before as I don`t know where to get it and if it exists here in holland then I don`t know under wich name. I usually use wallspackle but before I use the wallspackle I first lay a layer of styrofoam on top of my base and then I apply the wallspackle. No warping with this method
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 12:18 AM UTC
Yup yup, when I'm using wood I shape it first, then stain it whatever color I want it then I put a clear coat on top of it to seal it in. I use polyurathane. Then I build up on top of that.
kkeefe
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 12:29 AM UTC
Agree with Slodder.... stain the wood, seal it with Polyurethane.... at least three coats. I use a hard wood, mostly oak, but the Polyurethane works on soft pine as well, but I might tend to go at least five coats.
Sladog
United States
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 03:06 AM UTC
Ok...another question, if you please...
I got a few frames from the dollar store. Now, should I take the glass out or would it be ok to build on top of the glass?
Should I clear coat the sides of the frame?
I got a few frames from the dollar store. Now, should I take the glass out or would it be ok to build on top of the glass?
Should I clear coat the sides of the frame?
Norseman
Oslo, Norway
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 270 posts
Armorama: 177 posts
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 270 posts
Armorama: 177 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 03:38 AM UTC
Sladog, you might get a problem getting things to stick to the glass.
But I've done it, and most of the time, it was no problem.
But I've done it, and most of the time, it was no problem.
Marty
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: June 16, 2002
KitMaker: 2,312 posts
Armorama: 1,054 posts
Joined: June 16, 2002
KitMaker: 2,312 posts
Armorama: 1,054 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 04:06 AM UTC
Regarding your first question;
I don't normally apply cellyclay directly onto my wooden base. I usually glue on a thin (or thick) sheet of styrofoam and apply cellyclay on top of that. I do this for a couple of reasons:
1. It seems to stick better to styrofoam than varnished wood
2. In my eperience Celluclay tends to curl when applied directly onto wood
3. I can build up the ground quite extensively without using large amounts of wet celluclay . Thick layer takes a long time to dry and sometimes it might even rot.
I don't normally apply cellyclay directly onto my wooden base. I usually glue on a thin (or thick) sheet of styrofoam and apply cellyclay on top of that. I do this for a couple of reasons:
1. It seems to stick better to styrofoam than varnished wood
2. In my eperience Celluclay tends to curl when applied directly onto wood
3. I can build up the ground quite extensively without using large amounts of wet celluclay . Thick layer takes a long time to dry and sometimes it might even rot.
Sladog
United States
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 04:10 AM UTC
Should I clear coat the frame though?
bison44
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 471 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 471 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 05:41 AM UTC
Sladog: I have put the plaster directly onto the glass on a picture frame with no problems and it stuck great. All i did was mask off the frame with tape and kept it on until all groundwork and painting etc was done.
Sladog
United States
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Joined: April 01, 2003
KitMaker: 111 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 06:00 AM UTC
Bison, do you clear coat the inside of the frame?
kkeefe
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 06:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I don't normally apply cellyclay directly onto my wooden base. I usually glue on a thin (or thick) sheet of styrofoam and apply cellyclay on top of that. I do this for a couple of reasons:
2. In my eperience Celluclay tends to curl when applied directly onto wood
I've had problems in the past with it lifting up and curling up off the wood... especially around the edges. One of the reasons why I switched to Sculptamold years ago. I also find that the Sculptamold does not shrink anywhere near what the Celluclay does.
But like my signature line says... "Your mileage may vary".
bison44
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 471 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 471 posts
Armorama: 275 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 10, 2003 - 09:38 AM UTC
SLadog: I just masked off the top of the frame so it wouldn't get anything slopped on it the drywall plaster went directly onto the glass and the wood of the inside of the frame. All i did was tighten up the backing of the picture very tight, i left the glass in and the cardboard backing. It stuck very nicely (to the glass and the inside of the wooden frame) and i patched it up a bit after it shrunk while drying, then sanded it half arsed smooth and scribed cobblestones onto it. Nothing came loose with me scratching my pattern out with a finishing nail. I have some pictures of what it looks like (its the base for a T-34) on the MSN armorama site.
You could clear coat it I guess but i don't think you have to, most of the cheap picture frames are plastic or stained wood anyway.
You could clear coat it I guess but i don't think you have to, most of the cheap picture frames are plastic or stained wood anyway.