Thought I'd post some pics of my Tamiya M4 early. I using Formations turret cast nose and their Bogie update set. Wheels and idler are tiger models open spoke with plugged openings. Not sure if the pics will work as links however?
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00958.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00956.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00955.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00957.jpg

see if that worked...nice build btw...

kglack

Thanks for posting the photos Kevin.
Looks good so far.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Great looking Sherman cant wait to see it finished

Looking good Steve!
Can't tell from the pics but have you added the raised weld seams? Haven't used the formations turret as yet but it looks a beauty.
I reckon if you went to the trouble of the aftermarket parts, then ditch the kit guards for head and tail lights. They (well for me anyhoo) stand out like the proverbial and are one of the first noticeable things for Shermaniacs You can make them out of flat brass bar (my method) plastic strip, or even PE from a spare Sherman kit?
Oh, and I'd say it was more a mid production (Despite Tamiya's protestations) due to the M43A1 wide mantlet, the one piece transmission housing, track skids and especially the applique armour plating.
Look forward to more updates mate
Brad

Hi Steve,

Looks good so far, the cast numbers on the nose are excellent.

Al

Nice work: May I share some things that my "Sherman Eye" noticed?

The weld bead at the base of the applique armor above the hull MG port are very pronounced but missing in the Tamiya kit.

Also you might want to beef up the welds that attached the lifting lugs. I agree w/Brad about the light guards too. Best of luck to you!

Looking good so far. As far as the light guards go, I like useing the kit ones since I have problems getting the PE ones to form correctly. Guess it all depends on your level AMS . Please keep us posting on your progress.

Doug

Thanks Kevin, for getting those photos up for me. Much appreciated! I did build up the hull weld seams with stretched sprue. I have been thinking of cutting off those kit light guards as several of you noted. They do look a bit shabby next to the other aftermarket parts on there. I know have some Sherman PE sets around here someplace! I think I'll do that. Isn't it funny how something like the light gaurd's over thickness stand out even more on a digital photo than to your naked eye? I'll need to beef up those front plate welds for sure.
Thanks to all !!
I understand this tank would actually represent an early, remanufactured M4.
Will post more later.......................

what did you texture the hull with?

That's Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 500. Great stuff !! Fumes a bit strong though.

Here are pics for my M4 with the upgraded PE parts form On the Mark. Light guards ,early type siren guard and tow cable clamps. Also filled in that MG mount weld seam.Should be ready for paint soon.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00962.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x36/scuscu66/DSC00963.jpg

Having a devil of a time with these photos........hope this works.

The brush guards look great mate. And the siren guard is actually the later version for the M4; the early had it mounted sans guard on the left fender. For added realism, you can add the cable running from inside the tank to the back of the siren. I'll dig up a pic of where it is to be located...
Are you going to prime the tank before the base coat? What I am trying to say is that the M4 did not have rough casting all over as per the M4A1. The turret and transmission housing yes, but the welded body would be quite smooth with no irregularities. Once primed, I would judge if the body appears to have too much of a rough surface, and to maybe use a sanding stick to smooth her up a bit? Up to you, by the way... Oh, and the rear light guards did not have a gradual curve from the rear down to the deck, but more one central bend forming an obtuse angle. Easy to fix insitu, by gently using tweezers to squeeze flat the guard behind the light on the horizontal, and then straighten the guard to the surface.
Brad

This roughly shows where the cable lay. It entered the tank (with a small rubber plug, I imagine for waterproofing) just below the outside of the left brushguard.



Close up of where I have shown it pinned to the glacis before curling up into the rear of the siren.

Oh nearly forgot Steve. When in photobucket, simply click the IMG code at the very bottom of each photo, and then return to the forum and right click and paste, and voila your photo is in!
Brad

Not a big fan of Sherman's.
But in this case both are excellent work.
Nice to see somebody do a good job on them.

Thanks Brad,for the tip on that siren wire. I couldn't pick it out clearly on my references. BTW, I believe it would have been much easier to add the wire BEFORE the siren was attached! Live and learn. As for the texture,hey it did end up a tad rough. The bottle is near the bottom, and it was thicker than I realized. Plan on smoothing the plates down with sandpaper.

Hi Steve,

Looking good.

AL

lets see if that worked?

nice job by the way!

cheers

Looks really good Steve. Looking forward to seeing more of it.

Here are some shots of my recent progress with paint and weathering.




I'm working on a crew for her as well.
Regards,Steve