Does anyone have a building technique for the Dragon No 6182 Firefly Vc tracks?
These are the ones with two guide shoes on the outside and attaches to a pin on the end of each pad.
Normally, I place the tracks on the sticky side of some Tamiya yellow tape and place the tracks on it and add testors glue, let it set for about 15 to 20 minutes then drape the tracks on the model around the drive sproket and idler, then let it set. I leave one joint unglued so I can then remove the tracks and paint them off the model.
This technique doesn't appear suited for this type of track where you are adding the guide shoes on both ends of the track piece.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tom Moon
Houston, Texas
Hosted by Darren Baker
Help with Dragon 6182 Sherman Firefly Tracks
Posted: Monday, December 31, 2007 - 06:16 AM UTC
Posted: Monday, December 31, 2007 - 06:45 AM UTC
go and buy a set of AFV CLUB rubber tracks, the detail is ok, and they take about a second to fit , plus they are made for the firefly, so they are long enough to fit, i will find out the item number for you.
HTH
malc.
Posted: Monday, December 31, 2007 - 09:53 AM UTC
Hi Tom,
Once you get the first two joined build them in short sections of 8 to 10 pad lengths. Use an ordinary ruler to flattend them and when you get 3 or 4 sections built join them up. Once you get a system going it is not so hard but you must clean up the pads and connectors well before you start.
Lots of folks hate them but I love the variety of track types you can make. It just takes a bit of patience but they look the business when done. I paint the sections less the last pad on each end as I go. Use ordinary cement and you will have plenty of time to shape them.
When it comes to the rounds use the same process. Take your time and you shoudl build them OK. My first set were freightening but once I got a system they are not much of a problem just take a bit of time. I usually build them over two evenings and leave off the last round so that I can slide them off to paint as necessary.
Good luck, you'll get a lot of satisfaction when you get them done or you might go crazy
Cheers
Al
Once you get the first two joined build them in short sections of 8 to 10 pad lengths. Use an ordinary ruler to flattend them and when you get 3 or 4 sections built join them up. Once you get a system going it is not so hard but you must clean up the pads and connectors well before you start.
Lots of folks hate them but I love the variety of track types you can make. It just takes a bit of patience but they look the business when done. I paint the sections less the last pad on each end as I go. Use ordinary cement and you will have plenty of time to shape them.
When it comes to the rounds use the same process. Take your time and you shoudl build them OK. My first set were freightening but once I got a system they are not much of a problem just take a bit of time. I usually build them over two evenings and leave off the last round so that I can slide them off to paint as necessary.
Good luck, you'll get a lot of satisfaction when you get them done or you might go crazy
Cheers
Al
jjumbo
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 2,012 posts
Armorama: 1,949 posts
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 2,012 posts
Armorama: 1,949 posts
Posted: Monday, December 31, 2007 - 10:50 AM UTC
Hey Tom,
I agree with Alan, take your time and use a slow setting glue.
For longer runs of links, I built a jig out of balsa and basswood.
Glue a strip of balsa wood that is almost as wide as the track links and thicker than the height of the end connectors onto a basswood or other suitable base.
Use a reversed strip of masking tape on the jig to securely hold down the links and then lay the links tread side up and start attaching the end connectors.
That will help keep the end connectors straight up and avoid the "crabbed" look you can get with these kinds of tracks.
It also helps avoid the "oops" factor of getting the link's chevrons facing in different directions.
This kind of jig will work with individual links for M3/M5 Stuart and any M3/M4 Lee/Sherman tracks that have end connectors
I hope I explained that well enough and that it's of some help.
Cheers and have a Happy New Year
jjumbo
I agree with Alan, take your time and use a slow setting glue.
For longer runs of links, I built a jig out of balsa and basswood.
Glue a strip of balsa wood that is almost as wide as the track links and thicker than the height of the end connectors onto a basswood or other suitable base.
Use a reversed strip of masking tape on the jig to securely hold down the links and then lay the links tread side up and start attaching the end connectors.
That will help keep the end connectors straight up and avoid the "crabbed" look you can get with these kinds of tracks.
It also helps avoid the "oops" factor of getting the link's chevrons facing in different directions.
This kind of jig will work with individual links for M3/M5 Stuart and any M3/M4 Lee/Sherman tracks that have end connectors
I hope I explained that well enough and that it's of some help.
Cheers and have a Happy New Year
jjumbo
Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 02:43 AM UTC
This technique worked fine.
Thanks for your help.
Tom
Thanks for your help.
Tom
Greg
Oregon, United States
Joined: April 12, 2002
KitMaker: 455 posts
Armorama: 298 posts
Joined: April 12, 2002
KitMaker: 455 posts
Armorama: 298 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 06:37 AM UTC
Check out Steve Zaloga's books on modeling the Sherman and US TD's, Tom. He describes building jigs from wood or styrene (I use the latter) for easy assembly of VVSS track sets. The books have descriptions and pictures; easier to look at than for me to describe. I use jigs based on his design and they work beautifully. I have three sets now; one each for DML, AFV Club, and RHPS tracks. Why? Dimensionally, they all differ a bit and it makes assembly easier having a dedicated set of tooling for each. Indy-link VVSS track looks far superior to any of the flexible alternatives, IMO. No matter how well molded, the flexible types just don't have that same sense of weight.
Greg
Greg
tkdfighter
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2007
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 39 posts
Joined: July 22, 2007
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 39 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 01:54 PM UTC
I feel for you tom I just did the same tracks yesterday (jan 01) I used jjumbo's idea with a jig and it went pretty fast once you got a system going. I think it is over kill for a sherman but that is my .02 worth.
p.s did you find the tracks seem a bit thick ?
p.s did you find the tracks seem a bit thick ?
harrier1
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: June 09, 2005
KitMaker: 613 posts
Armorama: 484 posts
Joined: June 09, 2005
KitMaker: 613 posts
Armorama: 484 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 05:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
go and buy a set of AFV CLUB rubber tracks, the detail is ok, and they take about a second to fit , plus they are made for the firefly, so they are long enough to fit, i will find out the item number for you.
I bought a pair of these and they were actually too short, I read somewhere to stretch them slightly, i did and they snapped. Before you ask, yes I did buy the firefly ones. All in All not a great experience, you'll be better off using the kit tracks. Nick
keenan
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 06:46 AM UTC
Anyone else come really close to not having enough links total? I know a lost a few to the swamp monster (no carpet in the basement) but I had to raid a stash kit to finish up. Just wondering if I may have been shorted a sprue.
Shaun
Shaun
Posted: Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 07:13 AM UTC
Hi Shaun,
On the dragon kits I've always had a few left over. I used a set of AFV T41s(T51s?) and there were only exactly the correct number of pads. Lucky I found the few that escaped to the carpet monster.
Al
On the dragon kits I've always had a few left over. I used a set of AFV T41s(T51s?) and there were only exactly the correct number of pads. Lucky I found the few that escaped to the carpet monster.
Al