Mark, thanks, after you mentioned a third book I went on a search. Found another one by Sawodny titled German Armoured Trains on the Russian Front, though it may no longer be available. I'll keep looking
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzerjagerwagen Vol. 2 Build Log
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:36 AM UTC
Ron, thanks. Just trying to build this OOB, well I pretty much do that anyway
Mark, thanks, after you mentioned a third book I went on a search. Found another one by Sawodny titled German Armoured Trains on the Russian Front, though it may no longer be available. I'll keep looking
Mark, thanks, after you mentioned a third book I went on a search. Found another one by Sawodny titled German Armoured Trains on the Russian Front, though it may no longer be available. I'll keep looking
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:36 AM UTC
Step 10 concentrates on the turret interior, which as I stated earlier will not be visible on this build since I'll have all the hatches closed. Just wanted to get everything together to see if any problems arise. This step is another fairly busy one and is broken down into easy to follow sub-assemblies. All the parts fit together very well, with a lot of nice details. If I was any good at doing interiors I would definately like to show this one off. The only things to watch out for is (surprise!) flash, pin marks and mold seams on all the parts. Some pin marks are raised and some indented, gives you a little variety 
Also, on the 2 small storage boxes are a couple of sink holes, which are rare on this kit, but will need to be filled. Again, not much time spent here, and I did manage to break one of the uprights, not a kit fault but my own.
Step 11 continues with getting the turret complete, sans schurzen. The vision blocks fit onto the top half of the cupola with a tab and lined up easily. The top and bottom halves of the cupola fit together with a pentgon shape, very tightly. I'm not sure if they can be snapped together in different locations, but looking at the painting diagram the hinge should be at the 4 o'clock position, looking from the rear. Since both the cupola fits on the turret and the hinge ring fits on the cupola by way of tab and slot, line this up before glueing. I did find that the sprue connection points on both halves of the cupola line up, if that helps any. After that is set it is just a matter of glueing the main gun assembly and the turret interior from the previous steps to the turret shell. Fit was excellent and went together smoothly. Last up is assembling the 2 pieces of the Rommelkiste (thanks wbill76) and attaching to the rear of the turret.
And a view of the complete interior, pretty busy in there....
Fit it to the main car and it's beginning to look like an armored flat car.....
Next is the schurzen, which I'll try to use the styrene schurzen with PE brackets. Should be like a picnic in the rain
Thanks for looking.
Also, on the 2 small storage boxes are a couple of sink holes, which are rare on this kit, but will need to be filled. Again, not much time spent here, and I did manage to break one of the uprights, not a kit fault but my own.Step 11 continues with getting the turret complete, sans schurzen. The vision blocks fit onto the top half of the cupola with a tab and lined up easily. The top and bottom halves of the cupola fit together with a pentgon shape, very tightly. I'm not sure if they can be snapped together in different locations, but looking at the painting diagram the hinge should be at the 4 o'clock position, looking from the rear. Since both the cupola fits on the turret and the hinge ring fits on the cupola by way of tab and slot, line this up before glueing. I did find that the sprue connection points on both halves of the cupola line up, if that helps any. After that is set it is just a matter of glueing the main gun assembly and the turret interior from the previous steps to the turret shell. Fit was excellent and went together smoothly. Last up is assembling the 2 pieces of the Rommelkiste (thanks wbill76) and attaching to the rear of the turret.
And a view of the complete interior, pretty busy in there....
Fit it to the main car and it's beginning to look like an armored flat car.....
Next is the schurzen, which I'll try to use the styrene schurzen with PE brackets. Should be like a picnic in the rain
Thanks for looking.
mark197205
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 11:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ron, thanks. Just trying to build this OOB, well I pretty much do that anyway
Mark, thanks, after you mentioned a third book I went on a search. Found another one by Sawodny titled German Armoured Trains on the Russian Front, though it may no longer be available. I'll keep looking
Thats the one, I got mine through a local book wholsaler/retailer, there isnt much in it regarding the PJW's though but its still worth tracking down.
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 06:26 PM UTC
Been awhile since I updated this, so let's get it back on track (yes, pun intended) As mentioned, I wanted to try the styrene schurzen with the PE brackets. Trumpeters PE is fairly easy to work with, it seems 'softer', easy to cut and bend. Using the styrene pieces as forms is one way to shape the brackets, or you can glue the braces on first and then bend to shape. I personally found the latter method easier.
And the PE compared to the styrene, even though PE does not get along with me it is still an improvement.
Test fit the brackets on, I found I needed to cut off the bottom section of the U shaped mounting areas on the two towards the front on each side. Otherwise the brackets sat up too high. This is before I trimmed them off.
After I had them fastened in place I glued the two schurzen sides together, let it dry and attached the whole spider assembly in one piece. I found this easier as one side will hold itself up as you glue the opposite side. I started with the front brackets and worked towards the back, glueing only the tops and gently tweaking it into place. Then the bottom can be fastened and leveled out if needed, since you do not want it to high, or worse yet too low that it hits the superstructure. Anyway, here's the schurzen in place.
And a quick priming, I used semi-gloss and flat black mixed for no other reason then I had an excess of these, and the base and the car take a bit of paint due to the size!
And that finishes the rail car, now we have the base to do. I actually had the base glued using all 5 pieces and primed before realizing that some may not want the base at full length.....
So I carefully removed one of the 'B' sections, putty and sanded and then primed the shortened base.
Then the ties need to be cut, this is how I cut mine, no real difference how you do it as they snap in place pretty tight. By losing one 'B' section we eliminate another 5 ties, cutting down the overall length quite a bit.
Then on to the rails, which have plenty of pin marks both raised and indented. I took some square styrene stock to use as a sander, glued some wet/dry to the bottom and began smoothing the rails. I still need to cut the rails to length, and hopefully I'll have this wrapped up in the next installment.
Thanks for looking.
And the PE compared to the styrene, even though PE does not get along with me it is still an improvement.
Test fit the brackets on, I found I needed to cut off the bottom section of the U shaped mounting areas on the two towards the front on each side. Otherwise the brackets sat up too high. This is before I trimmed them off.
After I had them fastened in place I glued the two schurzen sides together, let it dry and attached the whole spider assembly in one piece. I found this easier as one side will hold itself up as you glue the opposite side. I started with the front brackets and worked towards the back, glueing only the tops and gently tweaking it into place. Then the bottom can be fastened and leveled out if needed, since you do not want it to high, or worse yet too low that it hits the superstructure. Anyway, here's the schurzen in place.
And a quick priming, I used semi-gloss and flat black mixed for no other reason then I had an excess of these, and the base and the car take a bit of paint due to the size!
And that finishes the rail car, now we have the base to do. I actually had the base glued using all 5 pieces and primed before realizing that some may not want the base at full length.....
So I carefully removed one of the 'B' sections, putty and sanded and then primed the shortened base.
Then the ties need to be cut, this is how I cut mine, no real difference how you do it as they snap in place pretty tight. By losing one 'B' section we eliminate another 5 ties, cutting down the overall length quite a bit.
Then on to the rails, which have plenty of pin marks both raised and indented. I took some square styrene stock to use as a sander, glued some wet/dry to the bottom and began smoothing the rails. I still need to cut the rails to length, and hopefully I'll have this wrapped up in the next installment.
Thanks for looking.
MrMox
Joined: July 18, 2003
KitMaker: 3,377 posts
Armorama: 1,088 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 09:48 PM UTC
Nice to see your build comming along, too bad that interior is going to be hidded, it looks good.
Cheers
Cheers
Jamesite
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 10:28 PM UTC
James its great to see some progress on this, makes me remember what a nice kit it is and inspires me to build my Vol.1 (Shhhh, don't tell Mark!).
Speaking of the Vol.1 from what I can tell the only real difference is the addition of the vertical armoured plates on the front and side glacis and the omission of the wooden stowage box on the rear. Am I missing something or could the two kits have been combined with the option to build the two variants?
The Trumpeter gun mantlet seems to be the major issue with the kit, makes me glad i've purchased the armourscale replacement barrel which comes with a new mantlet!
It is a shame the interior is being hidden, If I was keeping the hatches closed i'd have saved it for a future kit, though I understand for the review nature of this blog you need to put it together. The sink marks look like they may be an issue though.
One last thing, I like the way you attached the schurzen brackets before removing some of the parts from the spruce, an inspired idea and one I may have to try!
Keep up the good work,
James
Speaking of the Vol.1 from what I can tell the only real difference is the addition of the vertical armoured plates on the front and side glacis and the omission of the wooden stowage box on the rear. Am I missing something or could the two kits have been combined with the option to build the two variants?
The Trumpeter gun mantlet seems to be the major issue with the kit, makes me glad i've purchased the armourscale replacement barrel which comes with a new mantlet!
It is a shame the interior is being hidden, If I was keeping the hatches closed i'd have saved it for a future kit, though I understand for the review nature of this blog you need to put it together. The sink marks look like they may be an issue though.
One last thing, I like the way you attached the schurzen brackets before removing some of the parts from the spruce, an inspired idea and one I may have to try!
Keep up the good work,
James
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 02:55 AM UTC
Jan, it is a nicely set-up interior and with some clean up on the parts would look great. Thanks for looking, should have this wrapped up soon
James, Vol. 2 only has a few of differences, the main ones being about 19mm longer, the lower hull is more of a 'V' shape, placement of headlights and steps plus the items you have mentioned. Most of the parts are shared with Vol. 1, though I think if they were displayed together the differences of the two would be quite noticeable.
Good move on the replacement barrel, that whole area was more work than it should have been.
Looking forward to you starting on your Vol. 1, James, thanks for the comments
James, Vol. 2 only has a few of differences, the main ones being about 19mm longer, the lower hull is more of a 'V' shape, placement of headlights and steps plus the items you have mentioned. Most of the parts are shared with Vol. 1, though I think if they were displayed together the differences of the two would be quite noticeable.
Good move on the replacement barrel, that whole area was more work than it should have been.
Looking forward to you starting on your Vol. 1, James, thanks for the comments
mark197205
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 02:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
James its great to see some progress on this, makes me remember what a nice kit it is and inspires me to build my Vol.1 (Shhhh, don't tell Mark!).
Speaking of the Vol.1 from what I can tell the only real difference is the addition of the vertical armoured plates on the front and side glacis and the omission of the wooden stowage box on the rear. Am I missing something or could the two kits have been combined with the option to build the two variants?
The Trumpeter gun mantlet seems to be the major issue with the kit, makes me glad i've purchased the armourscale replacement barrel which comes with a new mantlet!
It is a shame the interior is being hidden, If I was keeping the hatches closed i'd have saved it for a future kit, though I understand for the review nature of this blog you need to put it together. The sink marks look like they may be an issue though.
One last thing, I like the way you attached the schurzen brackets before removing some of the parts from the spruce, an inspired idea and one I may have to try!
Keep up the good work,
James
I saw that....
Jamesite
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 03:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextJames its great to see some progress on this, makes me remember what a nice kit it is and inspires me to build my Vol.1 (Shhhh, don't tell Mark!).
Speaking of the Vol.1 from what I can tell the only real difference is the addition of the vertical armoured plates on the front and side glacis and the omission of the wooden stowage box on the rear. Am I missing something or could the two kits have been combined with the option to build the two variants?
The Trumpeter gun mantlet seems to be the major issue with the kit, makes me glad i've purchased the armourscale replacement barrel which comes with a new mantlet!
It is a shame the interior is being hidden, If I was keeping the hatches closed i'd have saved it for a future kit, though I understand for the review nature of this blog you need to put it together. The sink marks look like they may be an issue though.
One last thing, I like the way you attached the schurzen brackets before removing some of the parts from the spruce, an inspired idea and one I may have to try!
Keep up the good work,
James
I saw that....
lol!
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Friday, February 01, 2008 - 03:28 PM UTC
Just a quick update on this slooooow progress.........
A few coats of MM Dunkelgelb on the rail car with only one mishap... while painting the turret it decided to slip off it's perch. Luckily only one side of the schurzen broke free and was an easy fix. It was then time to start the camo. This was my first time attempting this style of camo, and using a Tamiya SF airbrush made it not as nerve wracking as I thought it would be. So far only the Olivegrun complete, should have the Rotbraun done this evening. And, yes, forgot to do the barrel!
While that was drying I continued work on the base, painting the ballast. Going with a grey, which I hope will look pretty good after a few washes to dirty it up.
Again, not much done, will have more up this weekend.
A few coats of MM Dunkelgelb on the rail car with only one mishap... while painting the turret it decided to slip off it's perch. Luckily only one side of the schurzen broke free and was an easy fix. It was then time to start the camo. This was my first time attempting this style of camo, and using a Tamiya SF airbrush made it not as nerve wracking as I thought it would be. So far only the Olivegrun complete, should have the Rotbraun done this evening. And, yes, forgot to do the barrel!
While that was drying I continued work on the base, painting the ballast. Going with a grey, which I hope will look pretty good after a few washes to dirty it up.
Again, not much done, will have more up this weekend.
goldenpony
Joined: July 03, 2007
KitMaker: 3,529 posts
Armorama: 588 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 02, 2008 - 01:42 AM UTC
This has been a very informative build. Not sure I want to try one just yet, but it does give a person a good deal to go on.
Thanks for sharing it with use. Can't wait until it is done.
Thanks for sharing it with use. Can't wait until it is done.
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 02:53 AM UTC
Thanks, Jim, always nice to know if something is helpful
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 02:54 AM UTC
Usually, when i have a project on the paint table I begin another build. No exception with the Panzerjagerwagen Vol. 2, and since the build part is done I will end the build log with this update. Basically all I have left is a bit of weathering, which I'm going to keep on the light side. Hopefully with this build and the one that Bill Plunk(wbill76) did for the Vol. 1 edition you will have a head start on what to expect in these kits. All in all it was a pleasurable build with just a few problem areas that can be taken care of easily.
First off was to finish the base, I gave the ballast a couple of washes of Van dyke brown, followed by a wash of green and then a very thin wash of black. The ties were painted with a mix of burnt umber and burnt sienna, then a diluted mix of Rotbraun sprayed randomly. Then they were given a couple of washes with black.
The rails were then cut to length since I had shortened the base, just make sure that the ends of the rails fall between the ties, as the join plates are notched to fit this way. I painted them with gunmetal, washed with burnt sienna and finally a black wash. The wear surface was painted with steel and after that I called it done on the base.
The camo was then finished with the application of Rotbraun, followed by a misting with the airbrush of heavily thinned dunklegelb with a drop of red and a little buff added to it. I used about a 90/10 ratio of thinner/paint, and this blended it all together.
All that was left was to paint the few details that needed it....headlight lenses were painted with red and filled with future to achieve a 'deep' look, the housings and bumpers were given flat black. All else were done with gunmetal and at this point have a single wash of Van Dyke brown. The two decals were applied, and all that is needed now is to finish the weathering.
I would like to thank you all for looking and any questions and/or comments are always welcome.
First off was to finish the base, I gave the ballast a couple of washes of Van dyke brown, followed by a wash of green and then a very thin wash of black. The ties were painted with a mix of burnt umber and burnt sienna, then a diluted mix of Rotbraun sprayed randomly. Then they were given a couple of washes with black.
The rails were then cut to length since I had shortened the base, just make sure that the ends of the rails fall between the ties, as the join plates are notched to fit this way. I painted them with gunmetal, washed with burnt sienna and finally a black wash. The wear surface was painted with steel and after that I called it done on the base.
The camo was then finished with the application of Rotbraun, followed by a misting with the airbrush of heavily thinned dunklegelb with a drop of red and a little buff added to it. I used about a 90/10 ratio of thinner/paint, and this blended it all together.
All that was left was to paint the few details that needed it....headlight lenses were painted with red and filled with future to achieve a 'deep' look, the housings and bumpers were given flat black. All else were done with gunmetal and at this point have a single wash of Van Dyke brown. The two decals were applied, and all that is needed now is to finish the weathering.
I would like to thank you all for looking and any questions and/or comments are always welcome.
dispatcher
Joined: November 04, 2007
KitMaker: 396 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 04:23 AM UTC
James, nice build. A nice light weathering would show off the kit well. One question, did you start to hum " I've been working on the railroad" during the build?
Joe
Joe
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 05:01 AM UTC
Thanks, Joe, a little weathering will go a long way on this for sure. And that tune did pop into my head quite a few times during the build!
WingTzun
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 853 posts
Armorama: 515 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 05:11 AM UTC
It does look good but a little dirtying up would make it "just right...."
MrMox
Joined: July 18, 2003
KitMaker: 3,377 posts
Armorama: 1,088 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 02:08 PM UTC
Nice and clean - way too clean - remember that in the "good old days" there weren“t any internal tanks for sewage - it was dumped on the tracks. Allso the brakes created a lot of brownish dust together with rust from the tracks wich covers the tracks and the lower parts og the train and waggons.
- remember that in the "good old days" there weren“t any internal tanks for sewage - it was dumped on the tracks. Allso the brakes created a lot of brownish dust together with rust from the tracks wich covers the tracks and the lower parts og the train and waggons.
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