I wonder if any of you more experienced modellers could help on a point that has really confused me. I have only been modelling for about a year and have only just begun to look at weathering and washing techniques. To date I have just painted my models and left them as is. Now I want to try and apply washes and weathering to give them that 'real look'. What confueses me is should I be applying a matt lacquer after the wash and drybrushing? If so, what laquer is best. I did try a sample (Humbrol Clear Matt) on an old model straight from the can but it looked suspiciously gloss and exhibited an orange peel effect. Also, I have read some 'hints and tips' where modellers apply pastel chalk dust and pencil graphite but with no suggestion that a lacquer was applied after. If this is the case, what prevents the chalk dust and pencil graphite from coming off with handling? Any help on these questions would be very much appreciated
Andyelbac, sandwich UK

Andy, I'll see if I can shed some light on this for you. First, if you want to apply washes, I find they go down easier if applied over a gloss finish. I use artist oils for my washes mixed with an odorless thinner called Turpenoid. I use Future (Johnsons Kleer) for my gloss coats. Grumbacher, and Windsor & Newton are two brands of oils that I use, but there are several others out there. The gloss coat keeps the washed confined to the area you want to detail, ie. around bolt heads, panel lines, etc. The nice thing about oils is that they are easy to control and clean up should you not like the result. Simply wipe them up with a Q-tip (cotton bud ) and try again. Once the wash is to my liking and has dried I apply my decals and seal with a flat coat. This will set you up for dry brushing as it provides tooth for the paint to grab onto. Just remember when dry brushing its easier to add more than to take away. Learned this the hard over the years, so start on the subtle side and build it up. The key to getting a flat finish is to make sure the flattening agent in the lacquer is mixed well. If not your wasting your time. The lacquer will look clear if not mixed. When mixed it takes on a milky appearance, thats the flattening agent floating around in the carrier. This might have been the problem you experienced when applying your flat coat recently. In regards to using pastels you can get away without sealing them so long as there is not a lot of handling. If I do use pastels to weather and seal them, I apply the pastels heavier than normal as they tend to fade out when a sealer is applied over them. By adding them heavier at the begining they will tone down to the effect I was initially after. If you mount the model on a base, you can forego the sealing coat as you can handle the model by the base. The pastels can be worked/scrubbed into the paint with an old brush and the extra "dust" blown off. For the graphite look, ie bare metal/steel I use a soft pencil sharpened well and just draw it where I want it. Really looks the part, just don't over do it. Hope all of this helps. "Q"
ps. Almost forgot, I use Testors Dullcoat for my flat finishes. Really happy with the results I get from it

Hi Mike, you had the courtesy of replying to a question I had concerning washing and weathering vehicles. I have only just noticed that I did not post a thank you at the time (back in January)!
I would like to apologise for any lack of courtesy (certainly not intentional) and say thank you very much for the information. It was a great help.