Hello one and all, I am finally finished with my build of this kit. I would have taken my time and done a full up blog, but this was for one of those "paying customer" type folks.

Anyhow, I took a number of photos and I also kept some good notes so here we go:

The basic build: I added a Eduard PE set made for this kit and swapped out some pieces for ones from a DML kit. I had bought this kit on eBay years ago and the kit came with the extra DML parts. The DML parts are a light grey color compared to the darker silvery gray of the Zvezda kit.





There were two "scratchbuilt" additions to the kit and one detail addition: The top and bottom bolts for the flash supressor and plastic sheet to cover the sponsons area under the side fenders. The Detail addition was the casting numbers on the back of the turret made from numbers shaved off of sprues.



The running gear and tracks were all done up seperately. The idler arms were left off, but this did not need to be done as the JS-2 tracks are loose and could be adjusted...no problem. The "mud scraper" that goes "into" the sprocket needed to be kept off and painted up seperate until the sprocket was attached...then you can add the scrapers. The single fuel tank was also kept seperate to eas in painting. It is a DML "banged up" fuel tank with a pair of DML tank support arms with bolt/strap detail already molded on, from one of the newer T-34 kits. I also added the Eduard PE handles to it and ended up cutting off and regluing the filler cap on top to help level it out. once attached to the tank.



PE fuel tank straps and engine deck screens. I cut out the molded on screens and leveled the plastic out around the screens and then added the PE. I blanked off the bottoms of the screened area from inside the hull.



I added a lot of Squadron Green putty around the kit for weld beads and as filler. This was done very carefully using my syringe method as described in my SU-100 Blog. Places that especially needed filler were:

Around the rear facing MG "bulge"



Around the Drivors visor and front splash "bump". I carved off the kit "ridges" for positioning the drivers visor and ended up using the DML drivers visor.



Around the lifting lugs on the turret. I also added a styrene barrel to the hull MG sponson.



And finally, around the hull towing lugs. These are SP Designs replacement lugs as the Zvezda ones were badly molded with a huge amount of displacment. (The wierd red color comes from the item I used to prop the kit up for the photo.)



Then I primed the whole kit in acrylic flat black shot through my airbrush. Here is a shot of the towing lugs after, to demonstrate the look of the added weld beads.



More to follow...

Jacques, your shots don't show up and when attempted to be viewed directly, give 404 message

Jacques,

Your pics came up as little red Xs in the post, but I took a look at the photos in your gallery. Very nice stuff, especially considering the base kit. I continue to enjoy your work with the Squadron Green weld beads; I've found myself using this technique lately, and I like it.

Looking forward to more...

-YL

Fixed the picture problem.

How I painted the model. I did not take photo's of this, I will be covering this in the finishing of my SU-100 build. But here is the basic rundown:

1. Flat Black Primer

2. Black Green in the center of flat areas, leaving seams and edges black.

3. Dark Green mixed 50/50 with tan and a drop of yellow to highlight the center of the black green areas.

4. Overspray with Dark green mixed 10% paint/ 90% rubbing alchohol to tone down and blend colors. I also, at this point, add "chips" by using the green scrubby/Van Dyke Brown oil paint method as described so well by our own Ron Goins (thanks for all your illustrated help with that).

5. I give the model a wash of Burnt Umber oil paint heavily diluted in oderless turps. I will also work in small streaks of Van Dyke Brown at this point, very lightly, to add some flair, especially on a more worn piece of equipment. Once this has dried overnight, I use some Reaper "shadowed Steel" (Thanks again Ron) and drybrush on some worn metal effects. I may also use a small paint brush and add some steel "chips" to the model, if the weathering is heavy enough to warrant it. However, I use both effects SPARINGLY as a little worn steel goes a long way.

6. After whatever assembly is needed to move on, I then thin down Tamiya Buff about 20/80 with 91% Rubbing alchohol and start to lightly build up a dusty, worn look. I follow this up with the same dilution using Tamiya Desert Tan. This adds a darker, more "moist" look to the vehicle, like it has been in use and also adds a little depth to the dusty effect.

Now I start with my pigments. I "custom mix" my own colors using the bulk sizes of generic pigments I have bought through places like Dick Blick or Micheals. If you experiment, you can get any color you want at a very economical cost. And you also learn a good deal about things like color theory and mix ratios, which come in handy for other aspects of the hobby.

While I was applying the pigment blend I had on hand, I noticed a stark difference on the JS-II and photographed it for you to see. Notice how the right side looks ok, but is bland compared to the left side that has had pigment rubbed in lightly with a brush. No other technique was used (no washes etc...) and to clean off the tracks I just rubbed it with my fingers...no problem. Ah the magic of pigments.





Enough for now, the finale willbe tomorrow.

Beautiful and inspiring model Jacques!

I build one of those Zvezda kits more than ten years ago, it's basically good, just needs a bit of TLC and new tracks, I like their assault gun variants too. Best thing is the ride height is correct, unlike the Dragon kits. Dragon and Zvezda each have their strengths and a kitbash is definitely the way to go, it's not too difficult to find those kits at low prices nowadays, when you look hard enough (i'm thinnking E-Bay and model shows).

Cheers,

Christophe

Marvelous, great job!

The Final Product.

First, Here is a comparison with my older ISU-152 that I did about 3 years ago. The main difference is that I only used pastels on the -152 and did not do a oil paint/turps wash. These two changes have really made a difference in my building.



Overall shots of the finished tank:





and some detail shots:











Some final notes:

- Notice how the Squadron green putty weld beads came out. One way to "soften" them once they are applied (but the putty is still uncured) is to run liquid glue over them, I use testors liquid cement. I think they turn out very good and having done some welding myself, think they look very authentic.

- The tracks on this kit are also DML tracks, I did not mention it before. These are MARVELOUS tracks that just press together, glue is not really needed. Once together they can be run around the sprocket, sag induced, and they just do not come apart without serious stress. DML's best indy tracks ever. I did end up gluing these tracks on because they are going to a customer. If I had kept this tank for myself, I probably would not have glued them.

- I was also happy with how the fuel tank straps turned out as well as the single fuel tank.

Well, it was a fun build, I really enjoyed it. I am now working on the SU-100, finishing up the painting/weathering so look for it soon.

Very nice work, Jacques. The finished model looks great!

Re: the weld beads. I think they turned out quite well. I used Bondo Glazing and Spot putty (red) for some weld and texture detail on Tamiya's JS-3, and I liked it because it stayed workable a lot longer than the Squadron Green, which seems to set up quite quickly. Do you use the green putty straight out of the tube? Or do you add a little liquid glue to keep it workable a little longer?

-YL

I do add liquid cement if I need to work with it a bit longer. A little goes a LOOOONG way with SGP though, so I tend to let it start to dry a bit, then add a little glue to soften it up, but not too much. Then things like using a knife to make indents will stay visible instead of melting back into too goopy putty. It just takes a bit of patience and experimentation to get it all worked out properly.