Im want to build a Bradley like the one i had a couple years ago. I was in the first engineer company to have them and want to add the extra engineer stuff we had on them.
I have read that the Academy kit is better then the Tamiya and vise versa so i was just wondering you alls thoughts on it.
i know there are some things that need to be fix and updated on both kits.
thx for any help
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M2A2 ODS kits
sgtkopp
Missouri, United States
Joined: May 16, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
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Joined: May 16, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 10:00 AM UTC
marcb
Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: March 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,244 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,244 posts
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Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:02 AM UTC
A good article on correcting the Tamiya kit (base for the Academy one):
http://vodnik.net/
Go to Features.
PMMS has a good review of the Academy kit, IIRC:
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
Prime Portal.net has good walkarounds, etc.
Hope that helps.
http://vodnik.net/
Go to Features.
PMMS has a good review of the Academy kit, IIRC:
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
Prime Portal.net has good walkarounds, etc.
Hope that helps.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 02:35 PM UTC
Tamiya's M2A2 ODS and Academy's M2A2 OIF kits are about the same in quality. They both represent current Bradleys from about 2003-2005.
The Tamiya one represents a rebuilt to latest standards M2A2 ODS version as used by 3 ID in the initial invasion (March '03). It has most of the ODS mods that were seen at that time, but still shows parts that were removed or changed as well. It also has you adding obsolete parts such as the flotation system rods on the rear and left side of the hull.
The Academy M2A2 OIF kit represents a new-build M2A2 ODS from about the same time as Tamiya's. It has many newer features that Tamiya left off, like the new driver's hatch hinge, anti-foul bars in front of the driver's hatch, etc. It also has nicer side armor, sprockets with lightening holes, and better details in some areas. It has incorrect, old-style, triangle block track in the kit though. The triangle block track hasn't been used since the mid-'90s. Furthermore, Academy molded the track incorrectly as well, with the pads being molded 180 degrees from how they should be. AFV Club makes a great set of indi-link, square block, plastic track for them though.
Even with the need for replacement track, I prefer the Academy kit over Tamiya's.
Good luck.
The Tamiya one represents a rebuilt to latest standards M2A2 ODS version as used by 3 ID in the initial invasion (March '03). It has most of the ODS mods that were seen at that time, but still shows parts that were removed or changed as well. It also has you adding obsolete parts such as the flotation system rods on the rear and left side of the hull.
The Academy M2A2 OIF kit represents a new-build M2A2 ODS from about the same time as Tamiya's. It has many newer features that Tamiya left off, like the new driver's hatch hinge, anti-foul bars in front of the driver's hatch, etc. It also has nicer side armor, sprockets with lightening holes, and better details in some areas. It has incorrect, old-style, triangle block track in the kit though. The triangle block track hasn't been used since the mid-'90s. Furthermore, Academy molded the track incorrectly as well, with the pads being molded 180 degrees from how they should be. AFV Club makes a great set of indi-link, square block, plastic track for them though.
Even with the need for replacement track, I prefer the Academy kit over Tamiya's.
Good luck.
sgtkopp
Missouri, United States
Joined: May 16, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Joined: May 16, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 04:02 PM UTC
Thank you guys that is just what i needed.
CombatKrieg
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 517 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 517 posts
Armorama: 382 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 05:33 PM UTC
I'm having trouble with my Academy M2 Bradley OIF tracks... They seem too short!
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
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Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
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Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 06:31 PM UTC
Use copper wire to join the two ends. The extra length will make up for the shortness. Hide the joint behind the armor. If for some reason you are not using the side armor and don't want a messy joint, try adjusting the idler. Usually a very small movement forward will buy you an extra link's worth of length. You don't have to remove the axle, just slice off the rear portion and round it off a little. The idler may have a little play in it, so once you have it where you want it, use a drop of CA to hold it in place.
" If you love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest of freedom, go home and leave us in peace. We seek not your council, nor your arms".
Samuel Adams
" If you love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest of freedom, go home and leave us in peace. We seek not your council, nor your arms".
Samuel Adams
trahe
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
Armorama: 950 posts
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
Armorama: 950 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 - 07:40 AM UTC
On the subject of the Academy M2A2 kit, anybody know what parts F28 and 29 are for?
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 - 12:01 PM UTC
Parts F28 and F29 are new lift points that attach to the inside of each final drive housing (parts A22) on the front of the Bradley. If you look on the box top, you will see them installed. It looks as though they left them out of the instructions though.
trahe
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
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Joined: April 03, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 01:53 AM UTC
Gino, thanks! It was driving me nuts!
CombatKrieg
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 517 posts
Armorama: 382 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 517 posts
Armorama: 382 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 - 02:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Use copper wire to join the two ends. The extra length will make up for the shortness. Hide the joint behind the armor. If for some reason you are not using the side armor and don't want a messy joint, try adjusting the idler. Usually a very small movement forward will buy you an extra link's worth of length. You don't have to remove the axle, just slice off the rear portion and round it off a little. The idler may have a little play in it, so once you have it where you want it, use a drop of CA to hold it in place.
" If you love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest of freedom, go home and leave us in peace. We seek not your council, nor your arms".
Samuel Adams
Hmm many thanks! Will try this tomorrow.