I am building an Italeri M110 A2 Self Propelled and the tracks look stiff and fake when put on the model. What kind of technique is there to make them sag so it looks realistic. They go on so tight they are in a perfect oval shape.

Thanks in advance

Hey there.....something I read on Guntruck's web site when he was building his Tamiya T-55.....was to use a little bit of 5 min epoxy, and put on top of the road wheels, and the have the track come down on to the road wheels.....you will need something to stick in the sides to hold the track down while the epoxy drys.....but at least on his it looked very realistic.....and I plan to try the same technique on my T-62!!!

I think you need to do some researching first to make sure if M110's track does sag or not. I don't do much US armor, but from what I heard in this site, that most of the US tanks tracks don't sag that much.

But if you need to make them sag, I use CA glue and accelerator, just apply to top of the wheel, hold the track down, then spray accelerator.

There are pics of M110 made by WeWillHold in RR, great looking tank, you might want to take a look.

HTH.

I know some of those Italeri tracks seem to be much stiffer than the Tamiya variety.

I gave up on the ones for my LVT. I tend to stick to individual links. Sometimes it's more expensive but to me it's the easiest thing you can do to make your kits look more realistic.

But, the super glue method described above will do.

Steve

Just checked a couple of reference pics of the M110 ... not much for sag in the tracks. You may just want to glue them down.

The best way I've found for the 110/107M578 series is to use thin thread and tie it down to the wheels. unfortunately as common as these arty pieces are no one has made after market tracks.
Josh Aka shiryon

If there are no track return rollers, just glue the track on the top of the road wheels. Thread is good only if you can conceal it (like an armored skirt). In my case, what I did was used needles as what Shep Paine says in his book on doing armor models. I just 'hammered' needles on the appropriate places, trimmed them, placed the tracks under the needle, and viola! Track sag!

If you take a look in my motor pool gallery, you'll see the M578 recovery vehicle. Same chassis as the M107/M110, and you can compare tracks sag with some of the photos there.

Just thought I'd pass on a bit of info i've picked up in my research.

A good way to hold track in position while the glue is setting is to use Dowell rods these work best when you do want a sag effect. most craft stores and walmarts carry small bags of assorted sizes for a very cheap price.

Delbert, I usually cram in the appropriate number of butts out of the ash tray. I always have a ready supply.

I have the Revell version of the M 110 A2 in front of me right now. I hope your version was better to put together than mine! I have access to the recovery version here on the base that I work at, and from what I have learned, there should only be slight sag between the drive sprocket to the first road wheel, and the same from the idler at the rear, and the last roadwheel. The track is only about an inch above the roadwheels at correct tension, so I guess at 1:35 scale you could glue them down to all the roadwheels without being inaccurat.

I agree, I checked out my VTR today and it basically looks like the track sits on top of the road wheels. If you haven't fully assembled the hull (although I assume you already did), you can use the pin through the hull side to hold down the tracks. Drill tiny holes through the hull side in the proper position and slide a straight pin through the hole to keep the track down. Sometimes the interior hull side must be thickened with some styrene shims in order to give the pin some leverage against the vinyl tracks.

At least I'll know what's needed to do to mine if I ever get it built.

Glueing the track to the tops of road whaeels, using thread between the track and respective road wheel axles and the metal pins are all excellent methods for achieving the "sag" you desire.

Just some words of caution, refer to pictures to determine how the track sags. On many vehicles with unsupported track, the track does not touch the first road wheel in line. The M113 and M551 Sheridan are examples where the track does not touch the first road wheel.

Thank you guys for all your responses. That what makes this site so awsome :-)

During the 1st Gulf War, I was around some of these types of vehicles. Their really was no sag to them. The army was pretty strict on keeping the proper tension on their vehicles. As someone mentioned earlier, the track basically just sits on top of the roadwheels in a lazily sort of way. Just for future advice, you will never see an M1A1 with saggy tracks, just wont happen. (:-)

I would glue the track to the middle road wheel only. There is sag in real life and this is a bit too much, but it's the closest you'll get unless you've got some real thin and strong string