Hello, im writing this in case anyone wants to scrathbuild there own brick wall, but the same techniques coudl apply for cinderblocks, dry stone walling e.c.t
you will need
A Knife, with your favourite blade, (no 11 is good)
paints , hues of browns tans (i used, tamiya acylics valejjo acrylics and windsor newton water soluable oil paint.)
a file,
Glue!
most importanly a sheet of styrene or plasticard.
1) measure out the size of your wall, how big you want it, my wall was estimated at around half height for a 1/35 figure.
you need your styrene.....
carve in the basic shape of the wall.....
lightly etch in the bricks
score out the eges of your wall.
Once you are happly with the shape and size of your bricks
cut away the places where there will be mortar(the eges of the brick)
once you have done that you can start damaging the bricks, by scraping, slicing and gnawing at the bricks with your knife. it does not matter if you make a mistake here as walls are rarely ever perfectly even(depending suppose on where it is set and what time period)
Now the fun part. (PAINTS!!!!!)
base the wall in flat earth or your desired colour
when dry use buff(or agin your desired colour) to paint in between the bricks, no need to be neat here
when this is dry you canlock in the colors of your bricks, i used an oil in my colours to aid in dirtying the wall at a later stage.
according to taste, wash greens browns, whatever over the wall untill you think it looks dirty, (or clean enough)
for this wall i wasked a little green in some cracks and brushed
M.I.G pigment dark mud over the lower half of the wall, the oil in the bricks helped this to adhere better in some places more than others,
and cut it out
viola
repeat to your hearts content.
Hosted by Darren Baker
How to make/paint a brick wall
lespauljames
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 07:53 AM UTC
neil22
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 01:02 PM UTC
that looks great. i like it, nice n simple technic, i do almost the same except i dont use plastic-card.
i cast myself a slab of white plaster/ filler (ok i do use plastic-card as a mold, but its reusable). say 10cm x 30cm x 8 to15 mm thick, whatever size is needed.
this can then be carved, and cut on all sides.
neil
i cast myself a slab of white plaster/ filler (ok i do use plastic-card as a mold, but its reusable). say 10cm x 30cm x 8 to15 mm thick, whatever size is needed.
this can then be carved, and cut on all sides.
neil
milvehfan
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 01:17 PM UTC
Thanks for the tip, I will try it, looks easy and realistic. Thanks !
c5flies
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 06:23 PM UTC
Thanks for the SBS, James, your finished product looks great. Will have to give this a try
KoSprueOne
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 06:36 PM UTC
Cool technique. Very doable.
I suppose this can also be used for making a cobblestone street or textured sidewalk etc.
I wonder if heated correctly, this can bend around a form for stone columns or a water well.
Or bend in for the arched ceiling of a sewer or canal.
nice photo steps, thanks.
I suppose this can also be used for making a cobblestone street or textured sidewalk etc.
I wonder if heated correctly, this can bend around a form for stone columns or a water well.
Or bend in for the arched ceiling of a sewer or canal.
nice photo steps, thanks.
Kitty
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 07:12 PM UTC
Hello James
An interesting technique. I normally use this technique: Basemaking for Beginners: Urban Road by: Engin Kayral
The beauty of using this technique, and plaster, is that I can scribe it both sides if necessary - as in the case of a wall.
John
An interesting technique. I normally use this technique: Basemaking for Beginners: Urban Road by: Engin Kayral
The beauty of using this technique, and plaster, is that I can scribe it both sides if necessary - as in the case of a wall.
John
lespauljames
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 09:30 PM UTC
thanks guys i hope it comes of some use to someone!
kitty i will try some plaster work in the future, trouble is all previous attempts at plaster broke
kitty i will try some plaster work in the future, trouble is all previous attempts at plaster broke
Kitty
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 09:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
i will try some plaster work in the future, trouble is all previous attempts at plaster broke
James
You will need to toy with the consistencies. Try even adding a dash of white glue (PVA) to the mix to see if it improves it. Have not tried this myself, but I have heard it being done so why not?
You will note that Engin uses plaster of paris, and not normal walling plaster (speckle). That's not to say one should not proceed with care when carving it though.
Give it a try - this is what modelling is all about: trial and error and figuring out what methods and techniques work best for you
John
Sandy
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 10:06 PM UTC
hi small tip if you are using plaster , at the mixing stage pre colour it with cold tea or coffee , this way you have no white chips if by accident it is damaged . cheers ian
Kitty
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Posted: Monday, March 31, 2008 - 10:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
hi small tip if you are using plaster , at the mixing stage pre colour it with cold tea or coffee , this way you have no white chips if by accident it is damaged . cheers ian
Hello Ian
Good tip. Thanks. One could also colour it with an inexpensive acrylic paint.
John
long_tom
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Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 12:18 PM UTC
Wow, thanks!
But I thought of doing the same with balsa or basswood. Easier to carve, and I have plans to make a whole building if I can. Has anyone tried that?
But I thought of doing the same with balsa or basswood. Easier to carve, and I have plans to make a whole building if I can. Has anyone tried that?
KoSprueOne
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Posted: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 12:45 PM UTC
pre coloring with tea or coffee makes a lot of sense, great tip.
However this is the same technique I've been using for years to color my teeth...
However this is the same technique I've been using for years to color my teeth...