All,

I'm putting together Friul's T-55A tracks and am worried I'll run out of stainless steel wire for the pins.

Does anyone know what diameter/guage wire I can use to replace it - it seems pretty thin!

Thanks,

John

John,

I use a pin vise to re-drill all the holes then insert .020 brass rod or the steel wire used by florists. Seal each wire in place with a small drop of super glue.

Regards,
Larry

I learned the hard way that if you aren't going to drill out the holes to a slightly larger diameter, make sure you don't use wire that is any thicker that what they provide. By using a thicker wire, it makes the links fit together more tightly, but it also imparts a slight curve and a twist to the entire track run. I had to forcibly bend it in the opposite directions and ruined a few links in the process. I'm sorry, I don't know the answer to your question, I just wanted to let you know not to be tempted to use something a little thicker. The thinner wire allows some 'play' between the links and everything assembles nice and straight.



Bob

I'm with Larry on this.

The wire they provide works fine, and I did not run out with my Tiger I tracks, but I have since switched to brass rod. For one thing, it weathers better than the wire (I use "Blacken-It") and I find it easier to manipulate than the wire Friul supplies.

I'm not getting any younger....

To second (Third?) Larry and Bill - .020 brass wire in re-drilled holes is the way to go - its quick, easy and durable. The Friul wire always seemed a bit too flexible for my liking, but it does come in handy for other things!

Ide have to disagree here. Although i am no expert, and never used the other type of wire, Frui will give you enough wire you need. In order to prevent bending the wire too much so it will never fit through the slot, cut about a six inch long piece of wire. Next, straighten it as much as you can with your fingers. As a finishing touch, put it on a hardwood floor (or something flat) and roll a hunk of wood (or a flat subtitute) over the wire. this will get it dead-straight and it will just slide into place. Oh, and if u want it to remain in there, it would be wise to put a drop of super glue in the pin. (go ahead, ask me how i figured that out )

Jon,

I didn't mean to imply Friul's wire wouldn't work, or that there wouldn't be enough. Heck, they even give you more than enough links to do the job, have extras on the tank and THEN some.

I just find the brass wire easier to work with.

I guess you wont.
I just assembled two sets of T55 tracks and from the first set a complete wire out of 3 was not used.
I leave very little out of each link (less than 1 mm). The wire that protrudes from each link is enough if you want to remove them before final assembly.

The T55 in particular are the ones where I found the most spare wire of all the Friul's I assembled.
Have no worries...

Guys,

Thanks a _lot_ for the info - it is really helpful. I think I will have enough wire to make it through. I am using the Fruil wire after drilling out the holes a bit with a pin vise and sealing the end with super glue. It's working great!

John

I guess to late but only way is Brass wire.

Works the Charm.

try dress makers pins , they are the perfect size, come in boxes of hundreds and may just need trimming down.

HTH


Keith Forsyth

JB

I never felt that the wire that comes with the tracks is inadequate. I thought that the first set I made and soon found out I was making my work difficult.
Here's my technique for making a 80-81 link T55 track in 1 hour.

Grab a wire (complete) and straighten as much as you can (2 or 3 inches at a time) I do this with pliers. I slide the wire through the pliers and that takes any dent that may exist.
Hold it between your knees
Hold two links aligned and insert the wire
Push it gently with the help of pliers
If it finds some resistance, the pliers will help pushing it out of the way
When it reaches the end, grab a cutter (I use a Xuron precision) and cut it close to the end. Just leave one little bit out, enough for you to pull it just in case
Grab another link and repeat repeat repeat

Sometimes you'll find a link with an obstructed hole. Time for a drill (hand drill preferably with a .5mm drill)

The T55 links are the ones that I found the most easy to assemble, and the Tiger Late links were the most difficult. I had to open the holes all the time and cut some flash.

After many many sets, I can now do a track in one hour or close to that.
I found this better than pre cutting the wires or having to pre drill all of them. Some of the links don't need pre drill, so you're gaining time.

Build the first track and number the links every ten of them. Adjust to the tank. Then you know how many you need for the other side.
Start the other track with the correct number already on the table. It makes it easier if you see them disappear

Do you think this can help you

http://freeforumzone.leonardo.it/discussione.aspx?idd=7122537&p=9

(scroll down please)
I made it for an italian forum.

Guido