Hi guys,
I am looking for a good recepy for making mud.
From what I've seen I got the following "ingredients":
Pigments
Plaster
White glue
Sand
Now the real question.
How do I use these to get a good mud effect?
What are the steps?
Thanks for any tips you can give me.
Jan-Willem
Hosted by Darren Baker
Looking for a good mud recepy
janwillem
Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 1,236 posts
Armorama: 700 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 08:31 AM UTC
footsie
Joined: May 13, 2007
KitMaker: 305 posts
Armorama: 168 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 10:31 AM UTC
try pva glue and soil from the garden , dry out the soil crush it up , taking out any stones or lumps , you can even sieve it if you want , add the pva with a bit of water and mix it in with the crushed up soil paint this onto the model . when it dries you can put a wash through it and a bit of dry brushing then some pigments stippled onto the mud and around the edges of the mud, this works quit well , you can even change the color of the mud by adding either a spot of paint or some pigments to the mix , and put in a bit of coarse sand to give it a more lumpy look i have a photo of a churchill i did a while ago in my photo gallery this will give you a better idea of how it looks . hope this helps !!! ( ps, ignore the model its an old one but the mud looks ok )
footsie
Joined: May 13, 2007
KitMaker: 305 posts
Armorama: 168 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 01:01 PM UTC
footsie
Joined: May 13, 2007
KitMaker: 305 posts
Armorama: 168 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 01:12 PM UTC
Removed by original poster on 04/24/08 - 00:18:49 (GMT).
thedoog
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 263 posts
Armorama: 260 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 01:18 PM UTC
Uh, don't take dirt from your garden--there's bound to be "critters" and seeds in it, and the water could "activate" them.
You're better off going to an empty, sun-baked lot, like around a construction site or something, and getting dirt that is well-pounded and totally devoid of life. Scoop up a tupperware container of it, and mix it with water and white glue.
IMO,Forget the sand--it looks overscale and out-sized. It also lends a really gritty texture that is unrealistic.
Ain't no better recipe for mud than the real thing!
You're better off going to an empty, sun-baked lot, like around a construction site or something, and getting dirt that is well-pounded and totally devoid of life. Scoop up a tupperware container of it, and mix it with water and white glue.
IMO,Forget the sand--it looks overscale and out-sized. It also lends a really gritty texture that is unrealistic.
Ain't no better recipe for mud than the real thing!
footsie
Joined: May 13, 2007
KitMaker: 305 posts
Armorama: 168 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 01:20 PM UTC
RomeoKilo
Joined: December 03, 2007
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 155 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 01:25 PM UTC
I simply use paint mixed with talcum powder as a cheap alternative for pigments. Works very well.
spitfire303
Joined: December 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,406 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 08:00 PM UTC
water + flour + paint + you may add some pigments or pastels and you're good to go. Than you can brush/airbrush some varnish matt/gloss/semi gloss depending on what effect you want to get.
Spit
Spit
jimbrae
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 08:16 PM UTC
Pigments + Plaster + acrtlic resin (Gesso, available from any art-supply shop) 
For a REALLY clear guide to using, making and applying them:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/3055
For a REALLY clear guide to using, making and applying them:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/3055
redleg12
Joined: March 11, 2007
KitMaker: 872 posts
Armorama: 831 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 11:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Uh, don't take dirt from your garden--there's bound to be "critters" and seeds in it, and the water could "activate" them.
You're better off going to an empty, sun-baked lot, like around a construction site or something, and getting dirt that is well-pounded and totally devoid of life. Scoop up a tupperware container of it, and mix it with water and white glue.
IMO,Forget the sand--it looks overscale and out-sized. It also lends a really gritty texture that is unrealistic.
Ain't no better recipe for mud than the real thing!
Taking the Doog one further. I have my tub of "dirt". Also if you have a garden supply store, bring some small plastic bags and ask if he will let you sample. The usaully sell rock dust...good for rubble and dust.. The also sell small stone....good for rock and stones. And lastly they may sell topsoil....sometimes good to mix with dirt.
The real stuff works great....looks real!!
I also still use pastels, pigments etc but start with the real stuff.
Rounds Complete!!
Kuno-Von-Dodenburg
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 1,453 posts
Armorama: 1,319 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 12:07 AM UTC
Jan,
Allow me to suggest my simple mud "recipe" that requires absolutely no crushing, sieving or other forms of time-consuming farting about:
All you need is an "earthy" colour acrylic paint mixed with a bit of water, static grass (e.g. Verlinden) and some of that fine, sprinkly powdery stuff that railway modellers use for groundwork.
Mix it all up thoroughly, apply it around your tracks & running gear to suit, and it dries on nice and hard - looks the business too.
No need to use expensive modelling acrylics either - the cheap generic stuff from the hobby department of your local department store or the handycrafts section of a DIY superstore works perfectly.
- Steve
Allow me to suggest my simple mud "recipe" that requires absolutely no crushing, sieving or other forms of time-consuming farting about:
All you need is an "earthy" colour acrylic paint mixed with a bit of water, static grass (e.g. Verlinden) and some of that fine, sprinkly powdery stuff that railway modellers use for groundwork.
Mix it all up thoroughly, apply it around your tracks & running gear to suit, and it dries on nice and hard - looks the business too.
No need to use expensive modelling acrylics either - the cheap generic stuff from the hobby department of your local department store or the handycrafts section of a DIY superstore works perfectly.
- Steve
bill_c
Campaigns AdministratorJoined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 02:57 AM UTC
How do all these DIY recipes compare to the expensive "mud" kit from MIG pigments?
jimbrae
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 03:32 AM UTC
Quoted Text
How do all these DIY recipes compare to the expensive "mud" kit from MIG pigments?
Mig do a series of pigments for various kinds of mud and dust. Personally, I use them as I can't be bothered hunting for alternatives and they work VERY well indeed. The techniques I mentioned, in the DVD, are clear, concise and work well..
Just think for a moment, we spend a fortune on buying kits, then AM items such as alternative decals or PE, reference material etc. etc. then grudge a few dollars for a jar of pigments?
bill_c
Campaigns AdministratorJoined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 03:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
We spend a fortune on buying kits, then AM items such as alternative decals or PE, reference material etc. etc. then grudge a few dollars for a jar of pigments?
That's a good point, but I think it's also the question of "what works the most realistically?"
Personally, if I can buy a jar of paint in the correct color vs. mixing up something from scratch, I'll take the former any day. Same with weathering. But there is a wide range of products out on the market, and sometimes it comes down to: what REALLY works?
I purchased the Tamiya weathering sticks, for example. What a waste of money!!
But when I see cans of mineral spirits in hobby stores for $7-$8 that have less than 1/5 what I can get for the same price at Home Depot, I naturally question what's happening.
And sometimes there's a difference between the same products, as I found out in Civil War reenacting with Neat's Foot Oil. Unless you get the 100% variety, the stuff sold in most stores has petroleum distilates that rot the natural fibers in replica shoes.
Sometimes I think 50% of my time in this hobby is spent on the computer figuring it all out!
jimbrae
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 03:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sometimes I think 50% of my time in this hobby is spent on the computer figuring it all out!
Only 50%? You're doing something VERY wrong
thedoog
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 263 posts
Armorama: 260 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 03:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT USE FLOUR FOR MUD!!!!! water + flour + paint + you may add some pigments or pastels and you're good to go. Than you can brush/airbrush some varnish matt/gloss/semi gloss depending on what effect you want to get.
Spit
DO NOT USE ANY HOUSEHOLD COOKING PRODUCTS--ie, baking soda, baking powder, bleach, flour, etc--for mud, rust, etc!!!!
You are just asking for trouble with reactivity problems!!!!!
janwillem
Joined: October 01, 2003
KitMaker: 1,236 posts
Armorama: 700 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 04:47 AM UTC
Thanks guys for the replies. I'll experiment with the sugestions you made and see what works best for me.
Thanks again.
Jan-Willem
Thanks again.
Jan-Willem
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