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Looking for advice on PE
esc71
Indiana, United States
Joined: March 21, 2003
KitMaker: 222 posts
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Joined: March 21, 2003
KitMaker: 222 posts
Armorama: 142 posts
Posted: Friday, May 02, 2003 - 12:02 PM UTC
I will soon be starting my first good size PE detail set. I am trying to get back into the hobby after 10 years or so and attempting to step up my skills a bit from where I left off. I got the Eduard set for the Tamiya M8 Howitzer Motor Carrier to go with the kit I've had for a while. First, I've noticed some discolor or clouding on some of the PE parts. Can I apply them as is or do they need some sort of cleaning before use for better paint adhesion? Second, what is the best way to bend them without a PE bender that is mentioned so much here. Any and all opinions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
SS-74
Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
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Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
Armorama: 2,388 posts
Posted: Friday, May 02, 2003 - 12:57 PM UTC
Hi ESC,
The discolorization doesn't bother me a bit. I just use them without any treatment. I assume that you will prime the model before painting, if you do that, it shouldn't be a problem.
I use tweezer for bending, and unless it's some large piece, I have no problem. to tell you the truth I have the 8"hold and fold, and I don't even use it that much.
The discolorization doesn't bother me a bit. I just use them without any treatment. I assume that you will prime the model before painting, if you do that, it shouldn't be a problem.
I use tweezer for bending, and unless it's some large piece, I have no problem. to tell you the truth I have the 8"hold and fold, and I don't even use it that much.
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Friday, May 02, 2003 - 03:18 PM UTC
The discoloration is no problem. If it bothers you, you can try to clean it off in some thinner by swishing the fret in clean thinner and letting it dry. The old fashioned way (and still used most) is with a single edge razor blade and a small metal ruler. You can find them in better hardware stores like Sears, a 6" ruler is fairly cheap and has other uses, such as a ruler
Some stationary stores and arts & craft stores sell longer ones, but a 6" is plenty long enough.
Sometimes when a part needs to be curved like a headlight guard or some circular part, it is best to heat the part with a flame. I use a disposable lighter and keep a tea candle handy if I need to heat something for a little longer than 10-15 seconds. Use a good pair of tweezers, like those cross clamp ones when holding the part to be heated.
Good luck on your M8, I've got one and have the new Eduard PE set for it. I even have the Verlinden interior. I suggest buying a set of the AFV Club tracks, Tamiya molded the end connectors at the end of a single track block instead of straddling two adjacent blocks. It is a cool little armor piece.
Some stationary stores and arts & craft stores sell longer ones, but a 6" is plenty long enough.
Sometimes when a part needs to be curved like a headlight guard or some circular part, it is best to heat the part with a flame. I use a disposable lighter and keep a tea candle handy if I need to heat something for a little longer than 10-15 seconds. Use a good pair of tweezers, like those cross clamp ones when holding the part to be heated.
Good luck on your M8, I've got one and have the new Eduard PE set for it. I even have the Verlinden interior. I suggest buying a set of the AFV Club tracks, Tamiya molded the end connectors at the end of a single track block instead of straddling two adjacent blocks. It is a cool little armor piece.
Oberst
Ontario, Canada
Joined: June 26, 2002
KitMaker: 851 posts
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Joined: June 26, 2002
KitMaker: 851 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 11:41 AM UTC
As Dave and Rob have mentioned, you shouldn't really be worried about the discolouration although some modellers recommend that you wash your PE with soap and water before using to eliminate residue, it is up to you. The key with working with PE is to trim it as cleanly as possible from the "spruce" of the PE leaving no extras. Also, make sure you understand the instructions and how the PE is to be bent, bending more than once is usually bad and weakens the joint. Also, bend inwards on all fold indentations. Remember, PE skills improve with practise. As for a bender, I have a 4" Hold and Fold and while it works well, I use it very infrequently.
Have fun,
Andrew
Have fun,
Andrew
blaster76
Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
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Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 03, 2003 - 02:53 PM UTC
I use hemostats and fingers. This works well on tank parts but ship rails....not so great I have yet to master that technique consistently
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
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Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 12:43 AM UTC
For bending PE I have a pair of flat needle nose pliers that I use.
I have even heard of people using lego blocks as PE benders. Pinch the PE between two and fold. You can custom make the size and length.
I have even heard of people using lego blocks as PE benders. Pinch the PE between two and fold. You can custom make the size and length.
jejack2
Maryland, United States
Joined: April 09, 2002
KitMaker: 322 posts
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Joined: April 09, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 06:21 AM UTC
I use a couple of single edge razor blades or a straight edge and a razor blade for bigger parts. For the little bits I use either tweezers or one of the flat-type chisel blades for an exacto (if you know the type I'm talking about). My biggest problem is popping the little buggars off after you CA them in place.
J
J