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How best to paint a Black Marine
DUKWsinarow
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: October 08, 2007
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 04:22 AM UTC
I'm currently modifying a Italeri 1/35 DUKW to make a model of a DUKW photographed on Iwo Jima.

Since the caption on this photo attributes the DUKW to the 4th Marine Division 4th Tank Battalion, I assume that it must be from the 33rd, 34th, or 36th Marine Depot Company, which were assigned to support the 4th Tank Battalion.

While researching the 33rd, 34th, and 36th Marine Depot Companies in an attempt to find any markings or other items that might be unique to these units, I discovered that all three of them were, in fact Black units (White officers, Black enlisted personnel). [A photograph of a Marine from the 36th is in the link below]

http://ww2db.com/image.php?image_id=5452

Given this information, I decided to make the crew of my DUKW Black, but am having a great deal of difficulty painting the figures (an Azimut DUKW pilot and a gunner that is a composit of a Warriors torso and Tamiya legs).

On the White figures I've painted, I've always used Tamiya Flesh Tone with a wash of Flat Black to highlight the features and give the appearance of battle grime.

Unfortunatly, with my attempts to make a Black soldier, I've always ended up with a black piece of plastic that lacks any defintion or realism.

What colors and techniques should I use to produce a realistic Black Marine???
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 04:45 AM UTC
First, I'd replace the heads with appropriate Hornet heads that have African features.

Second, I wouldn't use Tamiya paint at all, but even if I did, I'd never use theirs, or any commercial "Flesh" paint as a base, even for a caucasian. I'd also NEVER use black to shade anything other than dark gray to get a highlighted and shaded black garment or hair.

Olay, now to the question at hand. Black Americans' skin color ranges greatly, from virtually caucasian to almost ebony. There is no one color fits all.

Here's a link to a post I added a couple years back on painting ethnic skin tones. That site shuld answer your questions.
flyfort17
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California, United States
Joined: October 06, 2005
KitMaker: 21 posts
Armorama: 9 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 08:45 AM UTC
Belive it or not. Testors rubber in the small bottle is a good match
alanmac
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United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 09:21 AM UTC
Hi
Here is a link to an article Mark Bannerman did using oils if that's of any help or gudance

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbblack.htm

Hope so.

Alan
Tarok
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 09:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here's a link to a post I added a couple years back on painting ethnic skin tones. That site shuld answer your questions.



The link that Al provides is brilliant! I used a few of their "formulas", the Mediterranean, Latin American and Irish skintones in particular, and was very happy with the results.
MSGsummit
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: November 16, 2002
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 545 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 03:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Belive it or not. Testors rubber in the small bottle is a good match



I second this suggestion. It makes a great base color. You can also lighten or darken the shade as well.
DUKWsinarow
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: October 08, 2007
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Friday, May 02, 2008 - 05:24 AM UTC
Todd;

After hearing your sugestion, I drove out to Zeppelin Hobbies (they have a better selection of paint then my local hobby store), and looked at both Testors "Rubber", which you suggested and "Burnt Umber" which had been suggested on the site LaFleche provided.

I think that by using "Rubber" as a base, "Burnt Umber" on the lips, a "Burnt Umber" wash on the light areas (like the cheeks), and an overall wash of flat black, to simulate battle grime, I should be able to make a pretty good model.

Thanks!!!
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