Being a newbie modeler, I'm probably asking a question that gets asked a lot, so if it's been addressed before, if you would be ever so kind to direct me to the correct post/article I'd be ever so grateful. Anyway, I've done models before, but I've only done one that involved clear glass that turned out clean and without any clue on the glass. How do you guys install windshields on vehicles without getting glue on it? If you do get glue on it, is there something that will take it off? It's not that I over-glue, it's usually resulting from me getting glue on my fingers, not realizing it, and then transferring it over when I set the clear piece in its place on the model.

A lot of people use Elmer's (white) glue to glue in windshields. If you cen some on the "glass" just clean it off with a Q tip. You might also try glueing it in plave with Future floor polish. Future dries clear so even if you do get some of the glass it won't matter.

Since you live in the US then this should be no problem for you.

When I want to glue windshields then I use JOHNSON FUTURE for this, just hold the window on its place and put a little future on a 000 bruch and let the capilary action do the rest.

It is strong enough, not as strong as "gluing" but normaly it wont fall of, I dropped my willy''s jeep once and my wheels and other stuff came off, but the windshield stayed put.

#:-)

I've used just about every type of glue to affix clear parts and the common lesson to be learned is to be careful. The trickiest to use is superglue since it can sometimes leave a fog on the parts. I usually just use liquid cement, putting some on the solid plastic frame and waiting a fraction of a second before attaching the clear piece. Then I may add a drop or two using the capillary action to let the cement flow along the edges. Try not to have your fingers touching the glass or you will get the dreaded finger prints on the clear part.

If this happens, your best bet is to use a polishing stick (Squardon makes them, but you can find them cheaper in the nail care section of the beauty aisle) to get rid of the glue and polish the glass.

if you don't want all the troubles and testing, get Testor clear glue, this is what WE AIRPLANE modeller uses. it's great stuff. And you can also use it to make head lights, just drill out the lamp cup then just put the glue in, it dries to clear. HTH.

I have used a number of different glues and I use the same technique no matter the glue.
I take a small piece of wire and dip it in the glue to get a good coating on the wire. I then gently rub off some of the glue on the main model piece (not the glass). Once I get a decent enough coverage I slowly and carefully put the glass in place.
I typically only put glue in the corners or only here and there. I do not use much glue on glass.

Hi Brad,
1.I use surgical gloves when working with the clear parts.
2.I usually apply glue to the part that facing the clear part,not to the clear part.
3.I use white glue but had some problems in years,now I use
Testors Glue for Clear parts and it is satisfying. I also heard in an article about Microscale Micro Kristal Klear,but didnt see or use it.
4.Tamiya Compound helps to clean the little problems in clear parts

Supposedly, if you pre treat the clear piece with Future, superglue won't fog it.

I also can vouch for the Testors Clear Parts Glue.. it goes on white and dries clear........ and doesn't fog up the parts.. and just about every hobby store carries it.

I can confirm two of the above posts...

1. If you coat the clear part in future and use superglue, it will not fog. The future will also make a better looking window, as it will "remove" small scratches and the like.

2. Testors glue for clear parts works well.

Alright SS-74, I went out at lunch and spent my lunch money on the Testors "Clear Parts Cement," primarly to make headlights. What do you, grind out the light, paint or foil the reflector and then fill it with the glue? Does this stuff shrink much as it dries? I have some headlights to fix. Thanks in advance...

It's basically just like Elmer's glue, just a little more clear. Yes, drill out the lenses, either put a small circle of foil or paint the inside silver, then add the glue. People also use 5 minute epoxy to make lenses.

Sabot, does this stuff shrink like Elmer's? If it does I'm just gonna pick up some epoxy...
Thanks.

Thanks for the advice guys. Wish I knew about this earlier though

Keenan,

The stuff is great, I had used it to make lamp for the T35 I just did. At first it appeared all whiteish like Elmer's, but after 2 days of drying, it's clear as glass. Great stuff. You will like it.

Thanks SS-74

Today I was caught by two friends who knows nothing about modelling when I was buying a nail polishing stick in the beauty department of a grossmarket. I took me a while to explain them I bought it for my models but I am not sure they understood. Time will show these guys will be interested in modelling or I will have a bad name. :-) :-)

Get the micro mark catilog and pick up some watch crystal glue. Best stuff for glueing clear plastic.



http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/80343.html




Steve

Testor clear glue....... Hmmmm......... I'll try to find those here

Just a little tip.

-Use only small amounts of super glue
-Put glue on the opposite side of the model
-Use Elmer's Glue as a substitute for your standard glue. It is waterbased so ceaning is a breeze

Testors Clear Plastic Cement huh, seen it advertised, guess I should try it. I've used 5 min. epoxy, works good, looks good, doesn't shrink, but after a few years it yellowed. Anybody else find this to be true? or is it just me?

i went out and got Micro Kristal Klear from Hannants in the UK...lovely stuff