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I thank you for the info. I'm trying to build the M7 105. My main objective is the machine gun tub .I have noticed through my references that on this model the tub was longer instead of the short hight it is molded with. I was think about taking that side from the Kangaroo and placing it place of the original. Would that be to much work or should I just drop the idea all together.
Well, whether it's too much work is really your own decision. You could just start with the Italeri Priest if you want to do a late war M7 variant (they were built into 1945). You can correct the Academy kit if you want an early variant, or you can mix and match parts for a mid production variant. The new Concord book on US self-propelled artillery should provide all the reference photos you'd need. As for photoetch, there are parts on Sherman family vehicles that are particularly hard to mold in plastic, like the headlight and siren guards, and late M7's also had a pair of wire baskets on top of the sponson boxes which can only be done in metal, so yeah, I'd advise picking up some photoetch.
If you want to do the Ford-engined M7B1, you'll need an Italeri M7 and an M4A3 Sherman tank as a donor hull to provide the upper and lower rear plates and exhausts, as well as the engine deck. You would have to scratchbuild the extensions on the sponsons from styrene, as the M7B1 upper bodywork was longer than the M7, which was based on the Lee hull. However, very few of these were deployed to Europe, and they only turn up in photos from 1945. And for the Korean War M7B2 as shown in the photos here, you'd need to raise the gun mount and add the extenders to the pulpit.