Bought my first photo etched set from Edward. What is the best glue to use to fix the parts to plastic kits.
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What glue do you use for Photo Etched

Cookie

Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 11:53 AM UTC

calvin_ng

Joined: June 23, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 12:00 PM UTC
probably the extra thin cyanoacrylate glue (super glue)
Erik67

Joined: July 31, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 12:01 PM UTC
Most brands of super glue will do. I use Zap-a-gap.
Erik
Erik

Belt_Fed

Joined: February 02, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 12:28 PM UTC
I use Gap Filling, as the part will stay where i put it even if the glue isnt dry. Just my two cents.

DAR

Joined: April 27, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 07:28 PM UTC
Not tried it myself - yet, but I've heard good things about Gator Glue.

bill_c


Joined: January 09, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 06:18 AM UTC
The issues with CA glue (Zap-A-Gap, Crazy Glue) are as follows:
1.) Speed of setting: You don't want the glue to set too fast in case you need to position the part. Since a majority of my CA applications is PE to plastic, the parts tend to want to float off, flip over or otherwise misbehave.
2. Viscosity: Zap-A-Gap makes three viscosities and a gel (good for gluing the pins in Friulmodel tracks). The least-viscous tends to set too quickly for my tastes (as in "instantly"). The middle or "yellow" bottle is about right.
There is also a CA glue dissolver with a name like "Go Back" or something that will soften the bond enough to change boo-boos. But beware: when it dries, the glue rebonds unless you clean up the sticky residue. It's also good for cleaning up CA glue spills and overflows.
I'm looking at liquid solder and other ways of afixing PE metal to metal.
1.) Speed of setting: You don't want the glue to set too fast in case you need to position the part. Since a majority of my CA applications is PE to plastic, the parts tend to want to float off, flip over or otherwise misbehave.
2. Viscosity: Zap-A-Gap makes three viscosities and a gel (good for gluing the pins in Friulmodel tracks). The least-viscous tends to set too quickly for my tastes (as in "instantly"). The middle or "yellow" bottle is about right.
There is also a CA glue dissolver with a name like "Go Back" or something that will soften the bond enough to change boo-boos. But beware: when it dries, the glue rebonds unless you clean up the sticky residue. It's also good for cleaning up CA glue spills and overflows.
I'm looking at liquid solder and other ways of afixing PE metal to metal.

wbill76

Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 06:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Not tried it myself - yet, but I've heard good things about Gator Glue.
It's a good product, I've started using it myself lately and found it to be very reliable.
For the curious: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html
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