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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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Hairspray method
210cav
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 03:59 AM UTC
Do I have the sequence correct for the hairspray method:
1. paint/spray tank overall black
2. spray Future over vehicle
3. spray another color (OD)
4. apply hairspray
5. use a wide brush and hot water remove top layer of paint from wear areas.
Is this how you do it?
thanks
DJ
Bratushka
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 04:23 AM UTC
I don't think so. There was another post here somewhere that asked about using the hairspary method with application of whitewash. A link was provided in that post that I saved because it explained the hairspray method very well. (I don't intend to steal the thunder from whoever originally supplied the link, but I just don't recall who it was.) The application you are after may be different than white wash, but the sequence and procedure would be the same.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/527528/message/1176229975/Whitewash
rinaldi119
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 04:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Do I have the sequence correct for the hairspray method:
1. paint/spray tank overall black
2. spray Future over vehicle
3. spray another color (OD)
4. apply hairspray
5. use a wide brush and hot water remove top layer of paint from wear areas.
Is this how you do it?
thanks
DJ



Hi DJ,

No. if I understand your intent you want dark chips to show thru the OD. If so add the hairspray layer between the dark basecoat and the OD. I use multiple sized brushes, most of them small with short bristles. When you add the water it dissolves the hairspray taking the top coat along with it, which gives you your chips. However, it takes a bit of practice to achieve this effect when the top coat is completely opaque such as your scenario here. That is why a winter coat works so well because it has inherent transparency and the ease with which the water can get to the hairspray. I strongly recommend testing your ideas out prior to using it on a model. A solid OD coat is not such a simple task to chip vs. a winter whitewash.

HTH,

Mike
210cav
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 07:25 AM UTC
Mike-- thanks for the reply. Can you tell me how I would do it if I do not use white wash as the final coat? I want to get the chip effect. It would seem to me that I have to have two distinctly colored layers of OD for example. The dark one first then the lightened one. I am looking at other posts, but once again it does not appear to be a simple matter to do.
thanks again
DJ
rinaldi119
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Mike-- thanks for the reply. Can you tell me how I would do it if I do not use white wash as the final coat? I want to get the chip effect. It would seem to me that I have to have two distinctly colored layers of OD for example. The dark one first then the lightened one. I am looking at other posts, but once again it does not appear to be a simple matter to do.
thanks again
DJ



Well it is fundamentally the same process. The technique doesn't really change or need any adjustments. What you will need to work with are smaller sharper instruments such as toothpicks, paint stir sticks--things of that nature. Basically you are using hairspray method to replicate normal wear and tear chips, and as such these are far smaller than what is normally seen with say winter whitewash.

For example, let's say you start by spraying a basecoat of dark grey steel. This will be the color of your chips and scratches. Next is a layer of hairspray. If you feel it is necessary you can Future the basecoat prior to help add further protection (I haven't experienced a real need to do so, but it is definitely optional). Let the hairspray dry then spray your topcoat, in this case OD. Paint this like you normally would to get proper coverage. Now we have a rather opaque topcoat that water is just not going to be able to penetrate with ease so you need to very carefully plan the next steps out. First, I would brush just a small section with water and let it sit for about 20-30 seconds or so. Then to make the actual chips I would make a very small mark or chip first with a toothpick or such to give the water some access to the hairspray underneath--I would do this at a sharp edge of a fender, for instance, so it looks natural. The water should by then start to have some effect and work its way under a little so you can do some more chips and scratches. From there it is going to be a repetition of this process all around the model. However, I must caution this is very time consuming and delicate work. The scale of the mark is so important here to look believable and I can't recommend enough to give this a try prior to doing it in action on your model. Here is a photo that shows similar results with this same basic idea.

HTH,

Mike


210cav
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:39 AM UTC
Mike-- many thanks for your explanation and fine photo. Practice, practice.....
thanks again
DJ
jimz66
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:44 AM UTC
Fella's do you recommend any specific type of hairspray, or do you recommend any to stay away from?
jimz66
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:45 AM UTC
Mike what are you building there? Is it done? I would like to see it. Thanks.
afv_rob
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:52 AM UTC
Dont think it matter what type of hairspray you use, ive seen people use cheap economy cans, i use expensive stuff just because thats what i use on my hair!!

One thing i would say is make sure you shake the can up well, the spray tends to splatter out and leave blobs on your model if you dont shake it well.
jimz66
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 09:01 AM UTC
Thanks for the tips Rob. I'll have to keep them in mind.
rinaldi119
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 09:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Fella's do you recommend any specific type of hairspray, or do you recommend any to stay away from?



I prefer this brand by Tresemme, it sprays the finest mist and gives very even coverage without excessive overspray, heavy perfume or being too wet and drippy. It's readily available from Target and better grocery stores.



HTH,

Mike
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