Hi everyone,
I just recently started making models (this is my second tank). The first tank was a disaster imo so I have stripped it with oven cleaner to give it another try. This Abrams is an oob Tamiya. Any tips / advice would be greatly appreciated. I am in the final stages of touch-ups now and finishing the stowage.
http://s326.photobucket.com/albums/k411/SiR_Napalm/M1A1%20Abrams/?action=view¤t=DSC00948.jpg
Er....can someone tell the noob how to post pics here properly? I have them uploaded to my gallery area but wanted to place them here for easier viewing. Argh.
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Second tank build..
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 10:55 AM UTC
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 12:31 PM UTC
At Top of Forum read the thing that says "Image Help"
This should do the trick.
Welcome also.
This should do the trick.
Welcome also.
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 01:18 PM UTC
Sorry about that. I figured out what was wrong. I did everything the directions above had told me but still nodda. I was taking the url to my pic link and copying it in here with 
Ok lets see if that worked....
Ok lets see if that worked....
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 01:28 PM UTC
Excellent, it worked.
I have more but don't want to put more here and bog anyone down. So it's in it's final stages and I am finishing up the stowage and touch-ups like removing hard egdes from washes etc.
Like I said above, any tips / advice would be welcome. Thanks
~Frank
I have more but don't want to put more here and bog anyone down. So it's in it's final stages and I am finishing up the stowage and touch-ups like removing hard egdes from washes etc.
Like I said above, any tips / advice would be welcome. Thanks
~Frank
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 09:40 PM UTC
Not to bad for a first attempt.
On one side you have 3 dashes other side none they should be the same.
I can't find no reference as to the Fuel can OD green color.
There are a few other things but I think Gino will point them out.
Not to bad.
But I think if you really want to do one M1A1 the Dragon kit is the way to go.
On one side you have 3 dashes other side none they should be the same.
I can't find no reference as to the Fuel can OD green color.
There are a few other things but I think Gino will point them out.
Not to bad.
But I think if you really want to do one M1A1 the Dragon kit is the way to go.
tjkelly
Joined: May 04, 2007
KitMaker: 1,132 posts
Armorama: 1,123 posts
Posted: Friday, August 01, 2008 - 03:02 AM UTC
Welcome to Armorama! Not a bad job for your first finished tank 
Takes some practice doing all the little tricks and techniques, an evolving hobby for sure! Great folks here with loads of advice, they help out all the time.
Thanks for sharing your photos, keep at it! Cheers!
Tim
Takes some practice doing all the little tricks and techniques, an evolving hobby for sure! Great folks here with loads of advice, they help out all the time. Thanks for sharing your photos, keep at it! Cheers!
Tim
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Friday, August 01, 2008 - 04:48 AM UTC
Thanks for the kind words. I will add the three dots to the other side asap. As for the od green cans, I actually painted them in model master field drab, I guess the picture's color might be off.
Yeah Gino seems to have a vast knowledge of tanks / accuracy. He has already helped me out in another thread with both my Panzer and the Abrams. I had the stock APU on it with the OIF markings and he let me know the APU was outdated as of the early 90s.
Also, I do have a Dragon M1A1 AIM tank waiting to for me but I wanted to do the Tamiya kit first and try and get a bit better at this before I built that one.
Thanks again for the comments guys.
Frank
Yeah Gino seems to have a vast knowledge of tanks / accuracy. He has already helped me out in another thread with both my Panzer and the Abrams. I had the stock APU on it with the OIF markings and he let me know the APU was outdated as of the early 90s.
Also, I do have a Dragon M1A1 AIM tank waiting to for me but I wanted to do the Tamiya kit first and try and get a bit better at this before I built that one.
Thanks again for the comments guys.
Frank
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2008 - 03:24 AM UTC
Looking pretty good. A few more pointers for you.
The fuel cans can be that color. Metal fuel cans aren't used that often any more, but those that are have been repainted many times. It might be better to do them in a couple different shades of green. Tamiya left the third rung on the handle off though. There should be another rod in the middle between the two that are already there. It can be added with a piece of thin rod or stretched sprue.
The antennas should be dark green too, not sand.
The road wheel wouldn't stay on strapped like that. It is usually attached with a spare track center guide bolted onto the busle rack rail or a side grunt rail, like below:
Also, I would remove the coiled up hose (wire?) from the antenna. The antennas are somewhat fragile and would bend or break under the weight. Losing commo is a bad thing, so we don't hang stuff off them that could damage them.
The smoke grenade launchers should be at more of an angle too. I think they are at about 30 degrees to the side, not straight forward. They angle slightly up as well.
I'm assuming you haven't painted the head and tail lights yet either. They should have the upper half-circle in gloss red, with the two slits below them in gloss black. Same for the small square to the side of the headlights, gloss black. These are blackout drive and marker lights which appear black in scale.
Lastly, a couple pointers on accuracy. It may not matter, but, all 1ID tanks are camo, not sand. The tracks on it are the old T-156 chevron block tracks that were used from the early '80s through about the '90-'91 timeframe. Most M1A1s came with the newer T-158 square block tracks that are still in use today. There are many other parts to the kit that are not current for a OIF M1A1 either. The kit is pretty much correct for an early ODS (Operation Desert Storm, '90-'91) M1A1. That is when Tamiya came out with it and what it best represents. It would take quite a bit of work to bring it up to current standards, but it can be done.
Overall a good job. A few more tweaks and it will come out great. The Dragon M1A1 AIM is an excellent kit. Good luck with it too.
The fuel cans can be that color. Metal fuel cans aren't used that often any more, but those that are have been repainted many times. It might be better to do them in a couple different shades of green. Tamiya left the third rung on the handle off though. There should be another rod in the middle between the two that are already there. It can be added with a piece of thin rod or stretched sprue.
The antennas should be dark green too, not sand.
The road wheel wouldn't stay on strapped like that. It is usually attached with a spare track center guide bolted onto the busle rack rail or a side grunt rail, like below:
Also, I would remove the coiled up hose (wire?) from the antenna. The antennas are somewhat fragile and would bend or break under the weight. Losing commo is a bad thing, so we don't hang stuff off them that could damage them.
The smoke grenade launchers should be at more of an angle too. I think they are at about 30 degrees to the side, not straight forward. They angle slightly up as well.
I'm assuming you haven't painted the head and tail lights yet either. They should have the upper half-circle in gloss red, with the two slits below them in gloss black. Same for the small square to the side of the headlights, gloss black. These are blackout drive and marker lights which appear black in scale.
Lastly, a couple pointers on accuracy. It may not matter, but, all 1ID tanks are camo, not sand. The tracks on it are the old T-156 chevron block tracks that were used from the early '80s through about the '90-'91 timeframe. Most M1A1s came with the newer T-158 square block tracks that are still in use today. There are many other parts to the kit that are not current for a OIF M1A1 either. The kit is pretty much correct for an early ODS (Operation Desert Storm, '90-'91) M1A1. That is when Tamiya came out with it and what it best represents. It would take quite a bit of work to bring it up to current standards, but it can be done.
Overall a good job. A few more tweaks and it will come out great. The Dragon M1A1 AIM is an excellent kit. Good luck with it too.
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2008 - 07:29 AM UTC
Excellent info, just what I was looking for. Looking back on it, I would say using the recent markings on such an old tank kit was my biggest mistake with this build. I didn't realize how much of a difference there was in tank versions. Had I already a few model builds under my belt, maybe it wouldn't seem so daunting to get it up to specs. I'm going to try and get it as close as I can with the list you gave me though Gino - thanks.
Frank
Frank
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2008 - 08:31 AM UTC
If you are interested, here is some info for referance on what is on a modern Army M1A1. I have the same for a USMC tank as well if you aer interested.
US Army M1A1HC/AIM Upgrades
EPLRS antenna mount, thin post to the right side of regular antenna.
APU Power Junction box. New electrical conduit is the angle-iron piece running along the left side of the blow-out panel.
Power connection box next to the man-hole cover. There are two screw caps to connect to located on the front of the connector, toward the front of the tank.
PLGR antenna is mounted somewhere on the turret roof. It is usually in front of the crosswind sensor. I have also seen it to the front right of the TC's cupola as well. The location for it varies.
Tank/Infantry Phone and rear Slave Cable Receptacle on right rear of hull on latest AIM tanks.
Deep fording kit exhaust flange on HCs and AIMs.
Forward MCB power/control box connector next to driver's hatch.
Check Prime Portal for more M1A1 and M1A2 pics.
Check out my M1 Variants Article as well for more info and pics.
Also, the Tamiya kit has the old-style doghouse cover (sight box on top of turret). The newer on is not angled at the back.
Good luck with future builds.
US Army M1A1HC/AIM Upgrades
EPLRS antenna mount, thin post to the right side of regular antenna.
APU Power Junction box. New electrical conduit is the angle-iron piece running along the left side of the blow-out panel.
Power connection box next to the man-hole cover. There are two screw caps to connect to located on the front of the connector, toward the front of the tank.
PLGR antenna is mounted somewhere on the turret roof. It is usually in front of the crosswind sensor. I have also seen it to the front right of the TC's cupola as well. The location for it varies.
Tank/Infantry Phone and rear Slave Cable Receptacle on right rear of hull on latest AIM tanks.
Deep fording kit exhaust flange on HCs and AIMs.
Forward MCB power/control box connector next to driver's hatch.
Check Prime Portal for more M1A1 and M1A2 pics.
Check out my M1 Variants Article as well for more info and pics.
Also, the Tamiya kit has the old-style doghouse cover (sight box on top of turret). The newer on is not angled at the back.
Good luck with future builds.
Damage_Inc
Joined: July 17, 2008
KitMaker: 38 posts
Armorama: 38 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2008 - 09:50 AM UTC
More great info, thanks for taking the time to do that Gino. I enjoyed your article as well, very well done.
I have since taken care of:
~Wire removed from base of antenna
~Antennas repainted dark green
~Strap holding spare road wheel removed and replaced
~Third handle added to each of the Jerry cans
~Tail lights painted in Tamiya clear red with the lower slits black
~Smoke dischargers removed and repositioned out and up
I really can't do much about the type of track yet (working on trying to find an aftermarket set) and the camo - I would have to obviously re-do the entire thing for that so I will save that for the next time.
Thanks again Gino - more work to go (have to paint a couple of those cans a different shade).
Frank
I have since taken care of:
~Wire removed from base of antenna
~Antennas repainted dark green
~Strap holding spare road wheel removed and replaced
~Third handle added to each of the Jerry cans
~Tail lights painted in Tamiya clear red with the lower slits black
~Smoke dischargers removed and repositioned out and up
I really can't do much about the type of track yet (working on trying to find an aftermarket set) and the camo - I would have to obviously re-do the entire thing for that so I will save that for the next time.
Thanks again Gino - more work to go (have to paint a couple of those cans a different shade).
Frank
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 02:38 AM UTC
Looking good. Good job on the corrections.
Don't worry, I didn't expect you to repaint it. I was just giving you the info.
For track, AFV Club has a set of T-158 individual link track that are really nice. They go for about $15 at Great Models.
Keep up the great work.
Don't worry, I didn't expect you to repaint it. I was just giving you the info.
For track, AFV Club has a set of T-158 individual link track that are really nice. They go for about $15 at Great Models.
Keep up the great work.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 12:39 PM UTC
See I told you Gino would come and get us squared away. 
Even I learned a bunch of things.
Great Pics Gino.
So where did you get them from?
I guess as you are there,did you take them yourself?
Very clear indeed.
Thanks for posting them.
Good deal on the Cans,never would of got that right.
Even I learned a bunch of things.
Great Pics Gino.
So where did you get them from?
I guess as you are there,did you take them yourself?
Very clear indeed.
Thanks for posting them.
Good deal on the Cans,never would of got that right.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 05:56 PM UTC
Glad to help. Nope, I didn't take any of them. They all came from the net, mostly from Prime Portal.
gunnerk19
Joined: December 25, 2002
KitMaker: 354 posts
Armorama: 217 posts
Posted: Monday, September 08, 2008 - 05:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Looking pretty good. A few more pointers for you.
The fuel cans can be that color. Metal fuel cans aren't used that often any more, but those that are have been repainted many times. It might be better to do them in a couple different shades of green. Tamiya left the third rung on the handle off though. There should be another rod in the middle between the two that are already there. It can be added with a piece of thin rod or stretched sprue.
The antennas should be dark green too, not sand.
The road wheel wouldn't stay on strapped like that. It is usually attached with a spare track center guide bolted onto the busle rack rail or a side grunt rail, like below:
Also, I would remove the coiled up hose (wire?) from the antenna. The antennas are somewhat fragile and would bend or break under the weight. Losing commo is a bad thing, so we don't hang stuff off them that could damage them.
The smoke grenade launchers should be at more of an angle too. I think they are at about 30 degrees to the side, not straight forward. They angle slightly up as well.
I'm assuming you haven't painted the head and tail lights yet either. They should have the upper half-circle in gloss red, with the two slits below them in gloss black. Same for the small square to the side of the headlights, gloss black. These are blackout drive and marker lights which appear black in scale.
Lastly, a couple pointers on accuracy. It may not matter, but, all 1ID tanks are camo, not sand. The tracks on it are the old T-156 chevron block tracks that were used from the early '80s through about the '90-'91 timeframe. Most M1A1s came with the newer T-158 square block tracks that are still in use today. There are many other parts to the kit that are not current for a OIF M1A1 either. The kit is pretty much correct for an early ODS (Operation Desert Storm, '90-'91) M1A1. That is when Tamiya came out with it and what it best represents. It would take quite a bit of work to bring it up to current standards, but it can be done.
Overall a good job. A few more tweaks and it will come out great. The Dragon M1A1 AIM is an excellent kit. Good luck with it too.
Awww, geez... That SO MUCH looks like an area near (I want to say St. Vith) range at Drum; (we had a tank break track in a dirt/sand dune years ago looked just like the pic), and it took 2 tank crews and a few mechanics to fix it...
Lesson learned; don't pivot steer in loose sand/gravel/dirt...
montythefirst
Joined: August 04, 2007
KitMaker: 1,055 posts
Armorama: 199 posts
Posted: Monday, September 08, 2008 - 10:59 PM UTC
good job, could do with a little more weathering and the green on the cans and ammo boxes is a bit stark they could do with some shading but good job
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 03:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextLooking pretty good. A few more pointers for you.
The fuel cans can be that color. Metal fuel cans aren't used that often any more, but those that are have been repainted many times. It might be better to do them in a couple different shades of green. Tamiya left the third rung on the handle off though. There should be another rod in the middle between the two that are already there. It can be added with a piece of thin rod or stretched sprue.
The antennas should be dark green too, not sand.
The road wheel wouldn't stay on strapped like that. It is usually attached with a spare track center guide bolted onto the busle rack rail or a side grunt rail, like below:
Also, I would remove the coiled up hose (wire?) from the antenna. The antennas are somewhat fragile and would bend or break under the weight. Losing commo is a bad thing, so we don't hang stuff off them that could damage them.
The smoke grenade launchers should be at more of an angle too. I think they are at about 30 degrees to the side, not straight forward. They angle slightly up as well.
I'm assuming you haven't painted the head and tail lights yet either. They should have the upper half-circle in gloss red, with the two slits below them in gloss black. Same for the small square to the side of the headlights, gloss black. These are blackout drive and marker lights which appear black in scale.
Lastly, a couple pointers on accuracy. It may not matter, but, all 1ID tanks are camo, not sand. The tracks on it are the old T-156 chevron block tracks that were used from the early '80s through about the '90-'91 timeframe. Most M1A1s came with the newer T-158 square block tracks that are still in use today. There are many other parts to the kit that are not current for a OIF M1A1 either. The kit is pretty much correct for an early ODS (Operation Desert Storm, '90-'91) M1A1. That is when Tamiya came out with it and what it best represents. It would take quite a bit of work to bring it up to current standards, but it can be done.
Overall a good job. A few more tweaks and it will come out great. The Dragon M1A1 AIM is an excellent kit. Good luck with it too.
Awww, geez... That SO MUCH looks like an area near (I want to say St. Vith) range at Drum; (we had a tank break track in a dirt/sand dune years ago looked just like the pic), and it took 2 tank crews and a few mechanics to fix it...
Lesson learned; don't pivot steer in loose sand/gravel/dirt...
Don--ditto on the pivot in sand...bad do-do.
However, I want to say the area looks more like either Goldstone at NTC or our brother Marines at either 29 Palms or Camp Pendelton...my guess. They obviously dropped the idler wheel and are short tracking...message to crew : "ensure you use the TT on the way back to MCP. And go real slow."DJ
majjanelson
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 04:36 AM UTC
Marines, since the smoke dischargers are the USMC style and it appears that the kevlar on the left doesn't have a helmet band.
Jeff Nelson
Jeff Nelson
marsiascout
Joined: March 24, 2008
KitMaker: 1,247 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 04:51 AM UTC
For your second tank it looks fantastic. There are some problems, but who doesn´t have them with there first tanks. I think the tracks are fantastic.
Lars
Lars
210cav
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 08:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Marines, since the smoke dischargers are the USMC style and it appears that the kevlar on the left doesn't have a helmet band.
Jeff Nelson
Jeff- yeah, I think you are right. I assuming it is Pendelton.
DJ
SGTJKJ
#041
Joined: July 20, 2006
KitMaker: 10,069 posts
Armorama: 4,677 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 08:54 PM UTC
Looks very good for a second tank build. A few issues as pointed out, but nothing major.
Welcome to armorama. Looking forward to see more of your work in the future.
Thanks for sharing
Welcome to armorama. Looking forward to see more of your work in the future.
Thanks for sharing
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