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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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Stryker RV
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 04:11 PM UTC
Hi Folks:

I am building this Stryker RV for a currently serving US soldier. He has been in a couple of different Stryker Bdes and we have not decided which unit we are going with, but I decided to get started w/ the basics. This will be my first go at the slat.

To make the RV I am using the Real Model conversion. I am not waiting for the Trumpeter RV as the photos of their kit do not impress me. Still seems they are using soft details and the DVE is in the wrong spot still...

Here is what I have so far. I was very worried about the fit of the upper hull coversion part to the lower hull donor kit, but when I noticed I needed to make a lip on the upper hull, it fit just fine. I also decided to turn the front wheels for more interest. I may also drill out a few hull plugs later, and dangle them when I get to the detailing part.

Bob









iamsu7
Vendor
TRUMPETER
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Anhui, China / 简体
Joined: July 22, 2008
KitMaker: 354 posts
Armorama: 339 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 05:32 PM UTC
I'm waiting and see how you revise the detail of RAL MODEL's LRAS3: -)--<
sopmod6
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Tokyo-to, Japan / 日本
Joined: March 31, 2005
KitMaker: 761 posts
Armorama: 455 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 06:08 PM UTC
I'll admit, the LRAS on the trump kit looks much better than RMs version, but the other issues on Trumps kit still needs a fixin. I'm sure it'll get rectified before its release.You listening T?.......
bulivyf
Vendor
REAL MODEL
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Praha, Czech Republic
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 2,450 posts
Armorama: 2,409 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 06:43 PM UTC
[quote]I'm waiting and see how you revise the detail of RAL MODEL's LRAS3: -)--<


Hello,
In possible that trumpeter LRAS3 is better but on my RV I use very PE parts for realistic detail. I look on photo new Trumpeter kit
but the same detail is from very thick plastic. As well I don`t look anti-sleep.
Mainly is very different dimension Trumpeter Stryker, for that reason I prefer AFV Club. I recommended look on:
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/afv35126.html
Miloslav


bulivyf
Vendor
REAL MODEL
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Praha, Czech Republic
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 2,450 posts
Armorama: 2,409 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 07:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm waiting and see how you revise the detail of RAL MODEL's LRAS3: -)--<


I am sorry, this is no M1127 RV but M1131 FSV. This is similar but different!!!
Miloslav
marsiascout
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Noord-Brabant, Netherlands
Joined: March 24, 2008
KitMaker: 1,247 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 10, 2008 - 12:01 AM UTC
Succes with this build. I'm willing to build many strykers so 'm going toi follow this one!

Lars
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 - 01:19 PM UTC
Progress on the left side w/ the blast plates. I am trying to decide if I want to use the kit bustle racks which have the correct round-bar integral folding stowage rack (but simplified/solid tie downs) or the PE stowage racks that have the better tie downs, but the PE folding stowage rack are flat and bothersome to me. Do I want to bother and remove all the plastic tie downs and try and deal w/ replacing them w/ the tiny PE tiedowns? I don't know yet. I will "play" with the model, as my wife likes to put it, and see which way I want to go...





jccraemer
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2008 - 03:43 PM UTC
nicw build can wait to see the finished product good look
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Monday, October 06, 2008 - 05:06 AM UTC
More progress. Ready to start the slat support arms now. After getting some or all of those on I will then use my Grandt Line bolts for the PE attachments. There is a mix of hex bolts and bosses/bolts to use. I had to reposition a roof tab or two to line up with the RV roof, which is a bit different than the ICV (PE kit is really meant for the ICV but this is the only minor difference to work w/ on the RV).

Thanks to The Chopper the plastic rod needed for underneath part of the new armor was easily handled.



seb43
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Paris, France
Joined: August 30, 2005
KitMaker: 2,315 posts
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Posted: Monday, October 06, 2008 - 06:39 AM UTC
Look Good Bob
Keep the good work
Cheers
Seb
jccraemer
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 04:14 PM UTC
bob how's that stryker rv coming along
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,212 posts
Armorama: 2,807 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 10:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I will "play" with the model, as my wife likes to put it....

You've got one of them too?

Looking good so far....
Tankleader
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 29, 2003
KitMaker: 718 posts
Armorama: 684 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 11:52 AM UTC
Bob,
In your first post you talked about adding a lip, do you have any images of that lip?

Tanks
Andy
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 03:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Bob,
In your first post you talked about adding a lip, do you have any images of that lip?

Tanks
Andy


No progress for now. We are moving across country to NJ. The movers arrive tomorrow. Hope to get back to modeling at the end of the month.

Andy, two photos above show the lip I made. In the first photo you can see the lip (the resin side hull hangs just a bit lower than the inside - I used my Dremel tool to do this as I ran it the length of the part - pretty easy to do). The photo of the resin part upside down shows this as well. If you compare a Real Model hull out of the box to this you will see where I ground away. Again, it is not hard, as the Real Model part pretty much guides the Dremel tool bit along.

Bob
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
Armorama: 950 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 01:34 AM UTC
Looks good so far. How's all that brass to work with?
Tankleader
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 29, 2003
KitMaker: 718 posts
Armorama: 684 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 03:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Bob,
In your first post you talked about adding a lip, do you have any images of that lip?

Tanks
Andy


No progress for now. We are moving across country to NJ. The movers arrive tomorrow. Hope to get back to modeling at the end of the month.

Andy, two photos above show the lip I made. In the first photo you can see the lip (the resin side hull hangs just a bit lower than the inside - I used my Dremel tool to do this as I ran it the length of the part - pretty easy to do). The photo of the resin part upside down shows this as well. If you compare a Real Model hull out of the box to this you will see where I ground away. Again, it is not hard, as the Real Model part pretty much guides the Dremel tool bit along.

Bob


Bob,
Ok, that's what I did, I thought that you added something to create a lip. Yes, the part acts as a guide for the dremel tool, I did the same thing you did.

Tanks
Andy
Burik
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,437 posts
Armorama: 1,303 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 01:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good so far. How's all that brass to work with?


Not too bad. The tough part seems to be the small support arms for the slat. Joe (Mother) suggested using plastic inserts for support and additional gluing surface which is a nice idea, but the bends involved for the brass parts is a pain. I started with the rear slat but have not taken any photos yet. It seemed the easiest to start with. Anyway, with what is shown above in photos it was no problem, except that it is a bit difficult to line up EVERYTHING perfectly w/ the blast plates and then the bustle rack over that. I had to remove one bustle rack after it looked crooked to me and redo.

Also, the slat roof support tabs do not line up the same way for the RV as the ICV so one or two had to be moved so as not to go over a roof seam, but that was no big deal.

Bob
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