Hi there
Would anyone share what techniques they would use to weather a soldiers personal weapon such as an mp40. I have painted it the gun metal colour, now I need to add some wear and tear to it. What would I do.
Second what would be good to wash a german tankers black uniform (1940 colours)?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks
HastyP
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Some Weathering Questions
HastyP
Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,117 posts
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Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,117 posts
Armorama: 468 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2003 - 09:37 PM UTC
brandydoguk
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2003 - 10:46 PM UTC
Hello HastyP, when I paint metal weapons I usually mix a bit of silver with some black for a dark "gunmetal" colour and paint a base coat, when dry I do a wash with black and when dry I lightly drybrush with silver to bring out the highlights. For black uniforns I actually use a very dark grey (almost black), wash with black and drybrush with a slightly lighter grey than the base colour. Then I lightly drybrush with appropriate colours to show dirt and dust around the lower leg area. It works for me although it does tend to be a bit trial and error as sometimes I have to redo areas to get the results I'm looking for.
ZoomieE7
Texas, United States
Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 145 posts
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Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 145 posts
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Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 12:36 AM UTC
Rather than drybrushing silver, try pencil lead rubbed on sandpaper, and then applied with your finger. I usually do this over a coat of flat black paint to keep the shadows non-reflective. The effect is a smooth metallic sheen that doesn't look "drybrushed" because the graphite is so much finer than any metallic paint pigment. Good Luck, Rob
brandydoguk
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 05:02 AM UTC
Zoomie's method can look really effective but if you use it just check the graphite on your finger before you apply it to make sure there are no gritty bits stuck there. They can lodge in the nooks and crannies of the kit and removing them can mar the base coat of paint. Also be careful handling the model as it is quite easy to forget you've got the graphite on your finger and leave a smudgey fingerprint. ( I know because I've done it )
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
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Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 05:14 AM UTC
What I do is a good dark wash (usually black) and then bring up detail with a 3B graphite pencil with the tip sharpened at a 45 degrees angle just to get better control of what you do with it...
Ciao
Ciao
jimbrae
Provincia de Lugo, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: April 23, 2003
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Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 12,927 posts
Armorama: 9,486 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 05:42 AM UTC
Once again it depends on the scale of the weapon, perhaps more complicated is simulating wood.... any comments? jim (++)
Hollowpoint
Kansas, United States
Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
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Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2003 - 09:50 AM UTC
I do a variation on the techniques described.
First (after cleaning up the weapon and drilling our the end of the muzzle), I paint all metal parts Humbrol Satin Black (Humbrol number 85).
When the paint is dry, I rub a No. 1 Soft pencil lead on a small scrap of sandpaper, then apply lightly with my fingertip around the areas that wore the heaviest: around the muzzle, the trigger guard and trigger, the moving parts of the action and the sight (The parts soldiers touched most often.).
Then I carefully paint the stock with a light tan or gray acrylic paint. When this is completely dry, I work it with a dark brown or reddish brown oil paint. With a little practice, you can replicate woodgrain.
BTW, I paint the metal parts before the wood because I think it is easier to touch up if I goof and slop a little paint.
First (after cleaning up the weapon and drilling our the end of the muzzle), I paint all metal parts Humbrol Satin Black (Humbrol number 85).
When the paint is dry, I rub a No. 1 Soft pencil lead on a small scrap of sandpaper, then apply lightly with my fingertip around the areas that wore the heaviest: around the muzzle, the trigger guard and trigger, the moving parts of the action and the sight (The parts soldiers touched most often.).
Then I carefully paint the stock with a light tan or gray acrylic paint. When this is completely dry, I work it with a dark brown or reddish brown oil paint. With a little practice, you can replicate woodgrain.
BTW, I paint the metal parts before the wood because I think it is easier to touch up if I goof and slop a little paint.
trackpins
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: February 23, 2002
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 86 posts
Joined: February 23, 2002
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 86 posts
Posted: Friday, May 23, 2003 - 09:00 AM UTC
Just my 2 pennies worth if I may.
I have tried pencil but find its non permanent nature sometimes frustrating.
My method is to paint the barrel matt black and when dry dry brush with Humbrol Metalcoat Gunmetal. When dried buff it up with a soft cloth and presto, instant metal finish that stays on and looks good.
Peter Mealing
Trackpins
I have tried pencil but find its non permanent nature sometimes frustrating.
My method is to paint the barrel matt black and when dry dry brush with Humbrol Metalcoat Gunmetal. When dried buff it up with a soft cloth and presto, instant metal finish that stays on and looks good.
Peter Mealing
Trackpins