I have just bought my first kit with a etched brass conversion set and another one from Eduard. I have never used this medium before. There are no instructions on using these frets included. Is there a review explaining how to work with brass, what glues to use and haw how to handle the material.


Cookie

As for glues you have to use a CA type glue (i.e. super glue, crazy glue). However, I've found (and many here will concur) that the larger parts should be soldiered. I've had too many pieces fall apart when just glued, so I soldier everything I can.

There is also the process of annealing which is helpful. That is when the metal is heated it becomes softer and more easy to bend, it also holds it shape much better. I use my kitchen gas stove burners to anneal larger parts. Just a few seconds in the gas flame and it will glow orange, then quickly cooled in water.

As for bending I have a couple different kinds of pliers (like needle nose or flat). There are a bunch of tools made specifically for bending PE parts if you want to spend the money. I have Mission Models' Etch Mate (I think that is the name) which is nice.

No, you don't have to use super glue. A glue that sticks your fingers together better than metal to plastic. Get ahold of Gator glue which is a white water based glue. After it dries the only thing that takes it off is ammonia. You can order it direct from Kenny Loup (gator) who is one of the editors in the Model shipwrights section of the Amorama (Kitmaker) net. He charges somewhere in the vicinity of $5 - 6 for a decent sized bottle. I still have about 2/3 of mine, and I've built 2 - 350 scale Battleships (which use about 10x more PE than a tank kit) as well as numerous other kits including the BR52 with 4 sets of PE

Gator glue is tackier and holds the part in position better, it takes about twice as long to dry giving you time to adjust the position and dries clear and doesn't stain. Oh and as it is water based, to keep it from drying out, I use an eye dropper with some water in it it every once in a while to keep it fresh.

I am not a salesman nor to I get paid a commission for touting this stuff. IT JUST WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am not a salesman nor to I get paid a commission for touting this stuff. IT JUST WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/quote] put bold text here

I can second that - I got some about a year ago and it really does do the job.

As far as working with p/e goes tools really do help. If you plan on doing alot of p/e work I would reccomend a bending tool (Small Shop, Mission Models, etc...) if not then a staight edge, nice tweezers, and clips. Initially p/e can be a real lady, but with practice it gets easier every build.

Chris