This is the building that will be in my dio for the "On the Eastern Front" Campaign. I think it is done. What do you think? Let 'er rip...comments and criticism are needed.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Factory building WIP

anti-hero

Joined: March 20, 2005
KitMaker: 420 posts
Armorama: 307 posts

Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hello all!
This is the building that will be in my dio for the "On the Eastern Front" Campaign. I think it is done. What do you think? Let 'er rip...comments and criticism are needed.
This is the building that will be in my dio for the "On the Eastern Front" Campaign. I think it is done. What do you think? Let 'er rip...comments and criticism are needed.

pdelsoglio

Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 561 posts
Armorama: 553 posts

Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:02 AM UTC
I really like it. Good job!
My only advice would be some more heavy weathering on the bricks, but it is only a matter of personal taste
Thanks for sharing, and I think it would be a great submission for the Campaign!
Cheers.
Pablo
My only advice would be some more heavy weathering on the bricks, but it is only a matter of personal taste

Thanks for sharing, and I think it would be a great submission for the Campaign!
Cheers.
Pablo

alanmac

Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts

Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:03 AM UTC
Hi Bill
I like it, I like it a lot. Very well done. You've obviously looked at reference because of the little details around the building you've added and included. It looks very much like a building put up in the Industrial Revolution and has been up for a hundred years or so. Great stuff.
If I had any criticism to make it would be the planting in the building corner, too regimented and all the same height. Placed a bit "dolly head" like. But easily remedied, or maybe that parts still W.I.P.
Hope when I get round to creating some buildings they turn out as good as this.
Alan
I like it, I like it a lot. Very well done. You've obviously looked at reference because of the little details around the building you've added and included. It looks very much like a building put up in the Industrial Revolution and has been up for a hundred years or so. Great stuff.
If I had any criticism to make it would be the planting in the building corner, too regimented and all the same height. Placed a bit "dolly head" like. But easily remedied, or maybe that parts still W.I.P.
Hope when I get round to creating some buildings they turn out as good as this.
Alan

slodder

Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts

Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:39 AM UTC
Overall it's very well done. Very unique layout, very well detailed. Coloring is good, destruction is good. My one area that I would like to see something additional is the door. It looks to plain, I would like to see some hinges, or a handle or a sign, or something.
Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 10:10 AM UTC
Very nice. Is this a kit? or scratched with individual 'cork' bricks?
It really looks the part
Cheers,
Charles
It really looks the part
Cheers,
Charles

youngc

Joined: June 05, 2007
KitMaker: 2,166 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:21 AM UTC
Looks very good to me.
I also like the little extra details you have added. Looks very 'Russian'.
Chas
I also like the little extra details you have added. Looks very 'Russian'.
Chas

tuff13

Joined: September 04, 2006
KitMaker: 144 posts
Armorama: 104 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:28 AM UTC
Bill,Great job,something to be proud of .What eles will you be adding to the dio?

roudeleiw

Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:36 AM UTC
Bill, is this scratched?
When yes, Respect , respect, most excellent.
Can you show us some WIP photos? and more explanations please, like materials used etc.
Cheers
Claude
When yes, Respect , respect, most excellent.
Can you show us some WIP photos? and more explanations please, like materials used etc.
Cheers
Claude

jba

Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
Armorama: 777 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:50 AM UTC
Claude, I doubt this is commercially available, it's too good and too special to be. Not to mention too crisp. i guess this great building was done using the Carlos/Blockhaus cork method,
respect respect for you Bill!
JB
respect respect for you Bill!
JB

rotATOR

Joined: November 16, 2006
KitMaker: 223 posts
Armorama: 167 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 01:09 AM UTC
Do I see some Hudson & Allen bricks in there? lol. It looks grrreat Bill...

martyncrowther

Joined: September 12, 2007
KitMaker: 1,548 posts
Armorama: 1,407 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 04:41 AM UTC
great factory
excellent brick work


210cav

Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 05:18 AM UTC
Bill- can you provide details on the set used, paints applied. etc.....marvelous job
DJ
DJ

anti-hero

Joined: March 20, 2005
KitMaker: 420 posts
Armorama: 307 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 03:38 PM UTC
Alright. Thank you guys! I really appreciate the nice words.
This building is scratch built and it is indeed the fabulous Carlos/Blockhaus cork method of building buildings. I just can't say enough how glad I am that he shared his techniques with all of us!!!!
Pablo - I was not sure if it needed more weathering or not, that is one of the reasons I wanted to get some feedback...I'm still not sure.
Alan - the groundwork is still in progress, so I will definitely take care of the grass issues.
Scott - I'm glad you mentioned the door, another reason why I wanted others to look at this. A quite obvious oversight actually. I keep forgetting to put the handle on that side of the door!
Jeff - I'm going to include an ISU-152 going over a small wall running in front of the building.
I'm working on a figure or two as well, we'll see how that goes.
Claude - No WiP pics unfortunately. Next time I do a building I'll blog it. But I start out with the same material you start with, foamboard. (3/16th" (5cm) styrofoam sandwiched between thick paper.) I do sandwich the foamboard between artists mattboard (the cheapest stuff I can find) to prevent any warpage.
Mike - H&A bricks were used for the top layer of the rubble pile.
For the bricks I use two thicknesses of cork, 3/32nd (2.5mm), it comes in a roll, and 3/16ths(5mm) which comes in 12"X12" tiles.
Once I glue all the bricks down, I use thick plastic card to spread spackle/plaster over the whole deal, this is the mortar (morter?) Before this dries, I take an old toothbrush where I've trimmed down the bristles, and I scrub the spackle. This removes the unwanted spackle off of the bricks and it forces the rest in between the bricks leaving them raised.
Once this dries I spray the building with either "Almond" (tan) spraypaint or "Fossil" (light grey) spraypaint. This is the regular Rust-o-lium paint you can find at any hardware/DIY store.
Once this dries I get a brick color. I can't be of much help here...the paint I use is a mixture of Liquitex Burnt Umber and Red Oxide acrylic watercolor paint and one or two of about a half a dozen different tans and browns left over from when we decided to paint some rooms in our house. This is just regular latex interior wall paint! I've use it for painting buildings, for washes, and I've even airbrushed it! It has actually cut down on my hobby paint expenditures big time. I'm going to bring a sample of Armor Dark Yellow to one of those "we'll match any color" places and get a 29oz. sample container, that and a few greens and I'll be set!
OK, back on track, get a brick color - rust with some armor red brown, for example. Then get some of those little sponges use for putting on make-up. See the latest feature article, the ones he uses are the exact same thing. Now dab the sponge into the paint, then dab it a few times on a napkin or something so it is not loaded with paint, then GENTLY AT FIRST, dab it on the bricks. What you should get is some color on the raised brick area but none on the mortar lines! It will take a bit of practice and a few passes to get acceptable coverage. I will use a brush with different shades to individually paint some bricks for variation, but that is my main method for painting these brick buildings.
Any questions/comments let me know. Hope this helps.
BillK.
This building is scratch built and it is indeed the fabulous Carlos/Blockhaus cork method of building buildings. I just can't say enough how glad I am that he shared his techniques with all of us!!!!
Pablo - I was not sure if it needed more weathering or not, that is one of the reasons I wanted to get some feedback...I'm still not sure.
Alan - the groundwork is still in progress, so I will definitely take care of the grass issues.
Scott - I'm glad you mentioned the door, another reason why I wanted others to look at this. A quite obvious oversight actually. I keep forgetting to put the handle on that side of the door!
Jeff - I'm going to include an ISU-152 going over a small wall running in front of the building.
I'm working on a figure or two as well, we'll see how that goes.
Claude - No WiP pics unfortunately. Next time I do a building I'll blog it. But I start out with the same material you start with, foamboard. (3/16th" (5cm) styrofoam sandwiched between thick paper.) I do sandwich the foamboard between artists mattboard (the cheapest stuff I can find) to prevent any warpage.
Mike - H&A bricks were used for the top layer of the rubble pile.
For the bricks I use two thicknesses of cork, 3/32nd (2.5mm), it comes in a roll, and 3/16ths(5mm) which comes in 12"X12" tiles.
Once I glue all the bricks down, I use thick plastic card to spread spackle/plaster over the whole deal, this is the mortar (morter?) Before this dries, I take an old toothbrush where I've trimmed down the bristles, and I scrub the spackle. This removes the unwanted spackle off of the bricks and it forces the rest in between the bricks leaving them raised.
Once this dries I spray the building with either "Almond" (tan) spraypaint or "Fossil" (light grey) spraypaint. This is the regular Rust-o-lium paint you can find at any hardware/DIY store.
Once this dries I get a brick color. I can't be of much help here...the paint I use is a mixture of Liquitex Burnt Umber and Red Oxide acrylic watercolor paint and one or two of about a half a dozen different tans and browns left over from when we decided to paint some rooms in our house. This is just regular latex interior wall paint! I've use it for painting buildings, for washes, and I've even airbrushed it! It has actually cut down on my hobby paint expenditures big time. I'm going to bring a sample of Armor Dark Yellow to one of those "we'll match any color" places and get a 29oz. sample container, that and a few greens and I'll be set!
OK, back on track, get a brick color - rust with some armor red brown, for example. Then get some of those little sponges use for putting on make-up. See the latest feature article, the ones he uses are the exact same thing. Now dab the sponge into the paint, then dab it a few times on a napkin or something so it is not loaded with paint, then GENTLY AT FIRST, dab it on the bricks. What you should get is some color on the raised brick area but none on the mortar lines! It will take a bit of practice and a few passes to get acceptable coverage. I will use a brush with different shades to individually paint some bricks for variation, but that is my main method for painting these brick buildings.
Any questions/comments let me know. Hope this helps.
BillK.

roudeleiw

Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 06:27 PM UTC
Thanks Bill and well done!
1969

Joined: December 16, 2005
KitMaker: 2,864 posts
Armorama: 303 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:05 PM UTC
Hi Bill really nice effect you have achieved with the building,i personelly think it does not require any more weathering but that is a personel choice.
Do you have a link for this Carlos/Blockhaus method ?
Steve
Do you have a link for this Carlos/Blockhaus method ?
Steve


koenele

Joined: January 17, 2006
KitMaker: 4,194 posts
Armorama: 408 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:09 PM UTC
really nice work,
very realistic building and well painted
congrats
koen
very realistic building and well painted
congrats
koen

Jamesite

Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:57 PM UTC
Excellent work, i'm very impressed.
To me the brickwork is spot on!
I'd say that the concrete around the base of the wall and the groundwork needs more weathering, and as mentioned the door is a little plain.
Great work!
James
To me the brickwork is spot on!
I'd say that the concrete around the base of the wall and the groundwork needs more weathering, and as mentioned the door is a little plain.
Great work!
James


HONEYCUT

Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 12:28 AM UTC
Gday Bill
Reward for effort, mate!
That is a well constructed factory sir...
The finer points are all really well done also. Good attention to detail.
You mentioned putting a ISU -152 on the base. From what little I know this a big tank yeah? Any chance of a wider shot of the base to show us where it will sit?
Great stuff
Brad
Reward for effort, mate!
That is a well constructed factory sir...
The finer points are all really well done also. Good attention to detail.
You mentioned putting a ISU -152 on the base. From what little I know this a big tank yeah? Any chance of a wider shot of the base to show us where it will sit?
Great stuff
Brad

CDK

Joined: September 24, 2006
KitMaker: 358 posts
Armorama: 339 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 01:28 AM UTC
Easily one of if not the best brick structures I have ever seen. No smoke blowing here Bill, put a realistic backdrop behind it and you'd have me sold that it's a real building.
A little tweaking to the ground cover and you've nailed the scene perfectly.
A little tweaking to the ground cover and you've nailed the scene perfectly.

blockhaus

Joined: July 04, 2003
KitMaker: 693 posts
Armorama: 682 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hi Bill,
really cool, very realistic and nice brickwork, I want told only a minor question relative to the door, I think that need a bit more detail, but the whole construction capture very well this style brick building
hope see more soon:-)
Steve the metod consited in glue liitle bits of cork 2X6 mm in a carborad structure, you can see this in previous post that I nailed here
cheers
Carlos
really cool, very realistic and nice brickwork, I want told only a minor question relative to the door, I think that need a bit more detail, but the whole construction capture very well this style brick building
hope see more soon:-)
Steve the metod consited in glue liitle bits of cork 2X6 mm in a carborad structure, you can see this in previous post that I nailed here
cheers
Carlos

anti-hero

Joined: March 20, 2005
KitMaker: 420 posts
Armorama: 307 posts

Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 03:41 PM UTC
Again , thank you all for the helpful comments.
Steve - Go up to the little search box in the upper right corner of the page and put in "Blockhaus cork' and you will get lots of threads about his method and a feature about using cork.
When I have more progress I'll post it.
BillK.
Steve - Go up to the little search box in the upper right corner of the page and put in "Blockhaus cork' and you will get lots of threads about his method and a feature about using cork.
When I have more progress I'll post it.
BillK.

milvehfan

Joined: June 26, 2007
KitMaker: 2,116 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts

Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 05:16 PM UTC
In a Word...AWESOME ! Like it alot, very well done.
milvehfan

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