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Dioramas: Buildings & Ruins
Ruined buildings and city scenes.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Factory building WIP
anti-hero
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: March 20, 2005
KitMaker: 420 posts
Armorama: 307 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hello all!
This is the building that will be in my dio for the "On the Eastern Front" Campaign. I think it is done. What do you think? Let 'er rip...comments and criticism are needed.




pdelsoglio
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Mendoza, Argentina
Joined: November 13, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:02 AM UTC
I really like it. Good job!
My only advice would be some more heavy weathering on the bricks, but it is only a matter of personal taste
Thanks for sharing, and I think it would be a great submission for the Campaign!

Cheers.

Pablo
alanmac
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United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
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Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:03 AM UTC
Hi Bill

I like it, I like it a lot. Very well done. You've obviously looked at reference because of the little details around the building you've added and included. It looks very much like a building put up in the Industrial Revolution and has been up for a hundred years or so. Great stuff.

If I had any criticism to make it would be the planting in the building corner, too regimented and all the same height. Placed a bit "dolly head" like. But easily remedied, or maybe that parts still W.I.P.

Hope when I get round to creating some buildings they turn out as good as this.

Alan
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 08:39 AM UTC
Overall it's very well done. Very unique layout, very well detailed. Coloring is good, destruction is good. My one area that I would like to see something additional is the door. It looks to plain, I would like to see some hinges, or a handle or a sign, or something.
CReading
#001
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California, United States
Joined: February 09, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 10:10 AM UTC
Very nice. Is this a kit? or scratched with individual 'cork' bricks?
It really looks the part
Cheers,
Charles
youngc
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: June 05, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:21 AM UTC
Looks very good to me.

I also like the little extra details you have added. Looks very 'Russian'.

Chas
tuff13
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 04, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:28 AM UTC
Bill,Great job,something to be proud of .What eles will you be adding to the dio?
roudeleiw
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Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:36 AM UTC
Bill, is this scratched?
When yes, Respect , respect, most excellent.

Can you show us some WIP photos? and more explanations please, like materials used etc.

Cheers
Claude
jba
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Rhone, France
Joined: November 04, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 12:50 AM UTC
Claude, I doubt this is commercially available, it's too good and too special to be. Not to mention too crisp. i guess this great building was done using the Carlos/Blockhaus cork method,
respect respect for you Bill!
JB
rotATOR
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California, United States
Joined: November 16, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 01:09 AM UTC
Do I see some Hudson & Allen bricks in there? lol. It looks grrreat Bill...
martyncrowther
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: September 12, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 04:41 AM UTC
great factory excellent brick work
210cav
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 05:18 AM UTC
Bill- can you provide details on the set used, paints applied. etc.....marvelous job
DJ
anti-hero
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: March 20, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 03:38 PM UTC
Alright. Thank you guys! I really appreciate the nice words.
This building is scratch built and it is indeed the fabulous Carlos/Blockhaus cork method of building buildings. I just can't say enough how glad I am that he shared his techniques with all of us!!!!

Pablo - I was not sure if it needed more weathering or not, that is one of the reasons I wanted to get some feedback...I'm still not sure.
Alan - the groundwork is still in progress, so I will definitely take care of the grass issues.
Scott - I'm glad you mentioned the door, another reason why I wanted others to look at this. A quite obvious oversight actually. I keep forgetting to put the handle on that side of the door!
Jeff - I'm going to include an ISU-152 going over a small wall running in front of the building.
I'm working on a figure or two as well, we'll see how that goes.
Claude - No WiP pics unfortunately. Next time I do a building I'll blog it. But I start out with the same material you start with, foamboard. (3/16th" (5cm) styrofoam sandwiched between thick paper.) I do sandwich the foamboard between artists mattboard (the cheapest stuff I can find) to prevent any warpage.
Mike - H&A bricks were used for the top layer of the rubble pile.

For the bricks I use two thicknesses of cork, 3/32nd (2.5mm), it comes in a roll, and 3/16ths(5mm) which comes in 12"X12" tiles.
Once I glue all the bricks down, I use thick plastic card to spread spackle/plaster over the whole deal, this is the mortar (morter?) Before this dries, I take an old toothbrush where I've trimmed down the bristles, and I scrub the spackle. This removes the unwanted spackle off of the bricks and it forces the rest in between the bricks leaving them raised.
Once this dries I spray the building with either "Almond" (tan) spraypaint or "Fossil" (light grey) spraypaint. This is the regular Rust-o-lium paint you can find at any hardware/DIY store.
Once this dries I get a brick color. I can't be of much help here...the paint I use is a mixture of Liquitex Burnt Umber and Red Oxide acrylic watercolor paint and one or two of about a half a dozen different tans and browns left over from when we decided to paint some rooms in our house. This is just regular latex interior wall paint! I've use it for painting buildings, for washes, and I've even airbrushed it! It has actually cut down on my hobby paint expenditures big time. I'm going to bring a sample of Armor Dark Yellow to one of those "we'll match any color" places and get a 29oz. sample container, that and a few greens and I'll be set!
OK, back on track, get a brick color - rust with some armor red brown, for example. Then get some of those little sponges use for putting on make-up. See the latest feature article, the ones he uses are the exact same thing. Now dab the sponge into the paint, then dab it a few times on a napkin or something so it is not loaded with paint, then GENTLY AT FIRST, dab it on the bricks. What you should get is some color on the raised brick area but none on the mortar lines! It will take a bit of practice and a few passes to get acceptable coverage. I will use a brush with different shades to individually paint some bricks for variation, but that is my main method for painting these brick buildings.

Any questions/comments let me know. Hope this helps.
BillK.
roudeleiw
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Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 06:27 PM UTC
Thanks Bill and well done!

1969
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 16, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:05 PM UTC
Hi Bill really nice effect you have achieved with the building,i personelly think it does not require any more weathering but that is a personel choice.

Do you have a link for this Carlos/Blockhaus method ?

Steve

koenele
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Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: January 17, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:09 PM UTC
really nice work,
very realistic building and well painted

congrats

koen
Jamesite
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 11:57 PM UTC
Excellent work, i'm very impressed.
To me the brickwork is spot on!

I'd say that the concrete around the base of the wall and the groundwork needs more weathering, and as mentioned the door is a little plain.

Great work!

James
HONEYCUT
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 07, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 12:28 AM UTC
Gday Bill
Reward for effort, mate!
That is a well constructed factory sir...
The finer points are all really well done also. Good attention to detail.
You mentioned putting a ISU -152 on the base. From what little I know this a big tank yeah? Any chance of a wider shot of the base to show us where it will sit?
Great stuff
Brad
CDK
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: September 24, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 01:28 AM UTC
Easily one of if not the best brick structures I have ever seen. No smoke blowing here Bill, put a realistic backdrop behind it and you'd have me sold that it's a real building.

A little tweaking to the ground cover and you've nailed the scene perfectly.



blockhaus
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Spain / España
Joined: July 04, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2008 - 07:44 AM UTC
Hi Bill,
really cool, very realistic and nice brickwork, I want told only a minor question relative to the door, I think that need a bit more detail, but the whole construction capture very well this style brick building
hope see more soon:-)

Steve the metod consited in glue liitle bits of cork 2X6 mm in a carborad structure, you can see this in previous post that I nailed here
cheers
Carlos
anti-hero
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: March 20, 2005
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Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 03:41 PM UTC
Again , thank you all for the helpful comments.
Steve - Go up to the little search box in the upper right corner of the page and put in "Blockhaus cork' and you will get lots of threads about his method and a feature about using cork.

When I have more progress I'll post it.
BillK.
milvehfan
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 26, 2007
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Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 05:16 PM UTC
In a Word...AWESOME ! Like it alot, very well done. milvehfan
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