Been working on my fist (rather simple) dio. base using VLS's brick street resin section (which is really nice by the way). Saw a picture in a book a while back of a modeler using an 'ochre khaki' for the base color or a brick steet. So I went to the local hobby store and picked up some Polly S 'Israel Khaki' and Polly S 'Yellow' and did some blending of these two and came out with a pretty good representation of this color--I think anyway.
The author next used a light grey to dry bush over this color before applying oil washes. Now I just happened to have an older bottle of Model Master 'German Grey' and 'White' which I put together to make a real nice light grey.
Now my question is: Can I apply the Model Master paint over the Polly S (after it's dried a couple of days), without fear of something terrible happening to either one or the other of these colors? Or should I spray a coat of Testor's Dullcote over the Polly S before dry-brushing on the Model Masters paint? Or maybe the simple solution is to go and buy a jar of Polly S 'Light Grey' ?
But since I did have these older jars of Model Master sitting around I just thought this would be a good way to use some of it up in a creatively way.
Now I will seal these paints before putting down any oil washes over the top of them later on, but I was just curious if I might be headed for trouble here by mixing these two brands, one on top of the other, like this?
Thanks and take care, sgirty
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
To seal or not to seal.
sgirty
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 02:46 AM UTC
brandydoguk
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 03:29 AM UTC
Hi sgirty, I've never had any problems using diferent brands and types of paint on top of another. Like you say if left a couple of days to properly dry you shouldn't have any problems. I've never used VLS street sections but I assume they are plaster? It may be best to just try a small area which would not be too noticeable if you get any unforseen problems.
sgirty
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 06:10 AM UTC
Hi Brandydoguk, This particular street section by VLS is a resin piece measuring roughly 9 1/2 inches by 6 inches. Beleive I paid around $12 or $13 from R and J Products out in Washington State.
The brick pattern is very uneven, which I think is really the neat thing about it, as it should be able to catch a lot of weathering effects. Now if I can do it justice will be another matter.
Since I'm putting the vehicle (an old Tamiya Jumbo Sherman), on it on a small wooden plaque-like base, I divided this resin piece in half and can use it for two different small dios., which kind of helps give an added advantage to it as well.
But it would be big enough to use if you wanted to build dio. to match the base size too. There's no curb or sidewalk to it, just street though.
Yes, I will take a try with the Model Master over the Polly S on the underside of the thing just to be sure the paints don't decide to battle it out on me. But I believe that a good curing time is essential to minimize conflicts. Only trouble, when you're on a roll and have these ideas bouncing around in your head about what you want to do, it's kind of hard to play the waiting game, so to speak. Ha! But I have other models to work on in the mean time.
Thanks for the answer.
Take care, sgirty
The brick pattern is very uneven, which I think is really the neat thing about it, as it should be able to catch a lot of weathering effects. Now if I can do it justice will be another matter.
Since I'm putting the vehicle (an old Tamiya Jumbo Sherman), on it on a small wooden plaque-like base, I divided this resin piece in half and can use it for two different small dios., which kind of helps give an added advantage to it as well.
But it would be big enough to use if you wanted to build dio. to match the base size too. There's no curb or sidewalk to it, just street though.
Yes, I will take a try with the Model Master over the Polly S on the underside of the thing just to be sure the paints don't decide to battle it out on me. But I believe that a good curing time is essential to minimize conflicts. Only trouble, when you're on a roll and have these ideas bouncing around in your head about what you want to do, it's kind of hard to play the waiting game, so to speak. Ha! But I have other models to work on in the mean time.
Thanks for the answer.
Take care, sgirty
kkeefe
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 06:17 AM UTC
Sgirty,
I use Polly Scale and Model Master acrylics intertwined, but not mixed together, all the time. I then seal the subject with PS Flat Coat, and have no problems what-so-ever. No matter what paints you do use, allowing ample drying time is the key. I usually go for at least overnight for drying times.
I use Polly Scale and Model Master acrylics intertwined, but not mixed together, all the time. I then seal the subject with PS Flat Coat, and have no problems what-so-ever. No matter what paints you do use, allowing ample drying time is the key. I usually go for at least overnight for drying times.