Well guys, here is another Stug IV! My second model, I think i did much better than last time, especially in the weathering aspect.
meet the commander...Heinz!!
water can!
The weathering pastels courtesy of Mr. Hobby
took me two weeks of working every so often on her. I still have to get the order down, i found myself gluing stuff together after painting things.
Hope ya'll enjoy!
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
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Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
Another Stug IV
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
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Joined: October 02, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 11:36 PM UTC
Posted: Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 11:45 AM UTC
Not a bad effort Justin, for your second model, you are getting the hang of that airbrush all right.
I build this model as boxed by Academy (same kit, they use Tamiya molds), and found it a difficult kit to get to look right.
A few points to watch out for with your next model:
There are two big seamlines (one on the barrel, one on the exhaust), and some knock out pin marks on the inside of the skirts.
Glossy paint. Did you use gloss paint, or was the matt paint not well enough stirred? A coat or two of Matt Varnish should take away the gloss finish.
The commander's cupola periscopes, need a glossy greenish finish to simulate the glass.
I would not put the tow cable were it is, nor lean the jerry can against the super structure. Both would not remain there for long as soon as the vehicle moves.
Good luck with your next built, and please show us your progress.
Cheers
Henk
I build this model as boxed by Academy (same kit, they use Tamiya molds), and found it a difficult kit to get to look right.
A few points to watch out for with your next model:
There are two big seamlines (one on the barrel, one on the exhaust), and some knock out pin marks on the inside of the skirts.
Glossy paint. Did you use gloss paint, or was the matt paint not well enough stirred? A coat or two of Matt Varnish should take away the gloss finish.
The commander's cupola periscopes, need a glossy greenish finish to simulate the glass.
I would not put the tow cable were it is, nor lean the jerry can against the super structure. Both would not remain there for long as soon as the vehicle moves.
Good luck with your next built, and please show us your progress.
Cheers
Henk
Panzergrenadier44
Iran / فارسى
Joined: January 30, 2008
KitMaker: 93 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 12:24 PM UTC
Hi
I agree. Nice second try.
I'll concentrate on the weathering. Ok so:
-Dont apply heavy filters or washes. A few is better then one thick one. Try to vary the colours of the washes. I use green, brown, tan (well actually I use MIG Filters), you'll be surprised the effects it gives.
-As for the mud, try to first airbrush the running gear with a mud colour or make sure the pigments cover all of the running gear (or part depending on what you are doing)Because some areas look strangely clean while the others are downright muddy.
-Try to use more then one pigment color. Apply the darker wet and use the ligther dust colored pigements dry to highlight the places of the tracks that come into contact with the ground.
cheers
I agree. Nice second try.
I'll concentrate on the weathering. Ok so:
-Dont apply heavy filters or washes. A few is better then one thick one. Try to vary the colours of the washes. I use green, brown, tan (well actually I use MIG Filters), you'll be surprised the effects it gives.
-As for the mud, try to first airbrush the running gear with a mud colour or make sure the pigments cover all of the running gear (or part depending on what you are doing)Because some areas look strangely clean while the others are downright muddy.
-Try to use more then one pigment color. Apply the darker wet and use the ligther dust colored pigements dry to highlight the places of the tracks that come into contact with the ground.
cheers
Belt_Fed
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 12:27 PM UTC
for a second model, it looks great. Your figure looks very well painted, but his head looks a bit smushed (Probably not your fault) You have the right idea on wheathering, but on the next model i would recomend you concentrate more time on making it all look balanced. Like putting mud on majority of the suspension (there are a few clean spots) and on the bottom of the side skirts. Luckily, all this comes from expierince, and the only way to do that is to build more models, and make more mistakes (but i think i set the world record for number of mistakes). Once again, great second build!
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 308 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 03:35 PM UTC
Henk,
I feel terrible for not hitting those seemlines up! I didn't use gloss paint, and i used Mr. Hobby matte clear topcoat on her, i think it looks glossy from the flash of my camera. I leaned the water can up against the superstructure just to show her off i guess, if you look in the fourth picture, thats where i kept it. I will move the tow cable somewhere more appropriate. Thank you very much for the constructive criticism, It will help my modelling skills greatly!
Mahdi,
what do you mean by "washes?" I'm still trying to keep up with the terminology.Also, i will keep the weathering tips you gave me in mind for my Academy Tiger I. Thank you!
Jon,
Thanks for the tips on the balancing and weathering, I've made plenty of mistakes and am learning a great deal from the skilled builders on this site. I was put off my the look of Heinz's (the commander, i named him) head but he was molded that way i guess. I will certainly use your advice on my Tiger I model that I am doing soon. Thanks!
I feel terrible for not hitting those seemlines up! I didn't use gloss paint, and i used Mr. Hobby matte clear topcoat on her, i think it looks glossy from the flash of my camera. I leaned the water can up against the superstructure just to show her off i guess, if you look in the fourth picture, thats where i kept it. I will move the tow cable somewhere more appropriate. Thank you very much for the constructive criticism, It will help my modelling skills greatly!
Mahdi,
what do you mean by "washes?" I'm still trying to keep up with the terminology.Also, i will keep the weathering tips you gave me in mind for my Academy Tiger I. Thank you!
Jon,
Thanks for the tips on the balancing and weathering, I've made plenty of mistakes and am learning a great deal from the skilled builders on this site. I was put off my the look of Heinz's (the commander, i named him) head but he was molded that way i guess. I will certainly use your advice on my Tiger I model that I am doing soon. Thanks!
Panzergrenadier44
Iran / فارسى
Joined: January 30, 2008
KitMaker: 93 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 01:30 PM UTC
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 308 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 11:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/howto/wash.htm
Thanks for the site Mahdi. After reading that, I realize that I didnt use that technique as written. I never used a brush to highlight certain areas. I used my airbrush and sprayed a red-brown/dark yellow mix into the corners and places where one surface came into contact with another, attempting to add depth to the model itself. I remember in the August Fine Scale Modeler magazine the gentleman who painted the Tiger I did something much similar, mixing the red brown with the base coat and spraying it into the corners. To further keep from the model becoming monotonous, i used Tamiya weathering kits A and B, using "Mud" lightly on horizontal surfaces and "Rust" very lightly on the hinges and select bolts. For the engine covers, I used Mr. Hobby "charcoal" pastel and Tamiya's weathering kit B, and D utilizing "soot" and "oil stain" respectively.
Panzergrenadier44
Iran / فارسى
Joined: January 30, 2008
KitMaker: 93 posts
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Joined: January 30, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 03:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Texthttp://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/howto/wash.htm
Thanks for the site Mahdi. After reading that, I realize that I didnt use that technique as written. I never used a brush to highlight certain areas. I used my airbrush and sprayed a red-brown/dark yellow mix into the corners and places where one surface came into contact with another, attempting to add depth to the model itself. I remember in the August Fine Scale Modeler magazine the gentleman who painted the Tiger I did something much similar, mixing the red brown with the base coat and spraying it into the corners. To further keep from the model becoming monotonous, i used Tamiya weathering kits A and B, using "Mud" lightly on horizontal surfaces and "Rust" very lightly on the hinges and select bolts. For the engine covers, I used Mr. Hobby "charcoal" pastel and Tamiya's weathering kit B, and D utilizing "soot" and "oil stain" respectively.
That technique works great too . Its called post-shading. Remeber to keep this subtle though and concentrate in the nook and crannies or in place that are more shaded. you also want to make sure thin the mixture 95% thinner to 5% paint. As for the tamyia mud, altought they give immediate effects, they are rather oily and cannot be thinned so there possiblities are limited. To keep your model from becoming monotonous you can use MIG Pigements (or any other power pigements) as described here:
Pigement wheathering
Another useful technique for modifiying the appearence of you model is using oil washes and filters which is better described here (the other site was quite old-school) like so:
http://www.missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 03:39 PM UTC
thanks Mahdi!
I didnt know the term for "post-shading." I think i did it a bit heavy now that i know what it is..the mix was maybe 75/25 thinner to paint. I actually just located a store with oil paints in it this past weekend. I will be sure to hit it up soon for those oil paints for my Tiger.
I didnt know the term for "post-shading." I think i did it a bit heavy now that i know what it is..the mix was maybe 75/25 thinner to paint. I actually just located a store with oil paints in it this past weekend. I will be sure to hit it up soon for those oil paints for my Tiger.
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 04:24 PM UTC
A few thoughts here. Number one, the grills on the engine deck are for cooling air, not engine exhaust, and should be the same color as the rest of the vehicle. They wouldn't be sooty unless the tank had burned out. The engine exhaust goes out the muffler pipe, the inside of which which can be a dingy gray (the motor used gasoline, not diesel, so the soot isn't that black). In service, the muffler itself would soon rust all over due to the heat of the exhaust.
The little rectangles inside the cupola segments are the commander's periscopes, and should be glossy black (or you can glue small rectangles of exposed film negative to simulate the glass and not paint them at all). The spare wheel tires are very shiny--they need another layer of clear flat. And rubber is better represented by dark gray, not flat black. The clamps securing the jack are part of the fender and should be dark yellow, not metallic gray.
Big eyeballs on the commander don't look real. Look at a photo of someone taken from 30 feet away in bright sunlight and all you'll see are dark slits where he is squinting his eyes.
The applique in front of the driver's position is a layer of reinforced concrete, so the penetration should be a shallow gouge with bare concrete (light gray) showing.
The little rectangles inside the cupola segments are the commander's periscopes, and should be glossy black (or you can glue small rectangles of exposed film negative to simulate the glass and not paint them at all). The spare wheel tires are very shiny--they need another layer of clear flat. And rubber is better represented by dark gray, not flat black. The clamps securing the jack are part of the fender and should be dark yellow, not metallic gray.
Big eyeballs on the commander don't look real. Look at a photo of someone taken from 30 feet away in bright sunlight and all you'll see are dark slits where he is squinting his eyes.
The applique in front of the driver's position is a layer of reinforced concrete, so the penetration should be a shallow gouge with bare concrete (light gray) showing.
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, November 09, 2008 - 10:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
A few thoughts here. Number one, the grills on the engine deck are for cooling air, not engine exhaust, and should be the same color as the rest of the vehicle. They wouldn't be sooty unless the tank had burned out. The engine exhaust goes out the muffler pipe, the inside of which which can be a dingy gray (the motor used gasoline, not diesel, so the soot isn't that black). In service, the muffler itself would soon rust all over due to the heat of the exhaust.
The little rectangles inside the cupola segments are the commander's periscopes, and should be glossy black (or you can glue small rectangles of exposed film negative to simulate the glass and not paint them at all). The spare wheel tires are very shiny--they need another layer of clear flat. And rubber is better represented by dark gray, not flat black. The clamps securing the jack are part of the fender and should be dark yellow, not metallic gray.
Big eyeballs on the commander don't look real. Look at a photo of someone taken from 30 feet away in bright sunlight and all you'll see are dark slits where he is squinting his eyes.
The applique in front of the driver's position is a layer of reinforced concrete, so the penetration should be a shallow gouge with bare concrete (light gray) showing.
Well thanks for pissing on my parade!!! Any positives in my build?!
Really though, thank you for the input. Many of the things you mentioned I didn't even think about!!! Now, the spare road wheels, I used a coat of matte Mr. Hobby Topcoat on them, and the shine is from the flash on my camera. The engine covers, I just can't grasp that they would be perfectly clean like the rest of the vehicle. I am under the impression they also allowed access to the engine for services, would they not get pretty greasy and dirty? I will give you that i went waaaaay overboard on her, I mixed too much alcohol in with the pigment and it turned into very thin paint substance!!!!
Also, the big hole in the concrete was a bad job at trying to put a big hole in it, yet not enough to penetrate the block. However, I think the hole is so big that it almost would have had to penetrate and kill the driver! OOPS! Now Heinz's eyeballs, maybe he just has abnormally large eyeballs?! Seriously, i will fix that next time. Thank you for the input.
I just don't understand the 30 feet away thing. I always thought it was 35 times smaller, so everything had to be in scale..including eyes. They should be there, just very small. I noticed in the August edition of Fine Scale Modeler when they had the large article on one authors figures, they all had eyes and pupils.
Again, thank you very much for your input. It was all very good and will help on future models!
Panzergrenadier44
Iran / فارسى
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Posted: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 12:55 PM UTC
remeber use thinner is possible, not achool. Atough it is better then water, it tends to leave tide marks (blotches of colour)
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 05:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Now Heinz's eyeballs, maybe he just has abnormally large eyeballs?! Seriously, i will fix that next time. Thank you for the input.
I just don't understand the 30 feet away thing. I always thought it was 35 times smaller, so everything had to be in scale..including eyes. They should be there, just very small. I noticed in the August edition of Fine Scale Modeler when they had the large article on one authors figures, they all had eyes and pupils.
Not trying to rain on your parade, but you did indicate you wanted to grow as a builder.
Ideally, a 1/35th scale model viewed from a foot or so away should resemble a real object viewed from 35 feet away. When painting and detailing, we need to remember when to stop, as it is easy to depict too much detail, as when someone overdoes washes or drybrushing in an attempt to "pop out" the detail. The best test is, if your model is photographed in natural light, can it be mistaken for the real thing? Some of Steve Zaloga's builds for Military Modelling Magazine actually pass this test.
As for your figure's eyes, dedicated figure modelers will generally paint a small iris, then the upper eyelid in a red brown color cutting off the upper portion of the iris, then the lower lid just meeting the edge of the iris. The lids will then be trimmed to a hair thin line with regular flesh color. The eyeball itself is painted an off white, or just left in the flesh color, as the white isn't apparent from a distance. However, for artistic reasons, figure painters are usually depicting someone standing in diffuse light, not squinting against bright sunlight, since visible eyes give the figure more character. But figure painters may also spend a week or more on a single figure, carefully shading and highlighting all the clothing folds with oil paints. Tank builders usually cut a few corners, and simplifying the eyes is a legitimate shortcut. A simple wash and drybrushing on the clothing folds can often suffice to give the figure some life without turning it into a whole project in itself (something figure builders would find appalling).
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 08:07 PM UTC
thanks gerald for taking the time to explain that to me. I appreciate it greatly. I will use that knowledge on my Mini Art tank crew for my Tiger I.
integraguy95
Tennessee, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 08:11 PM UTC
Quoted Text
remeber use thinner is possible, not achool. Atough it is better then water, it tends to leave tide marks (blotches of colour)
i only used the alcohol on the mud. I realized using it anywhere else was fruitless.