The other day I found a couple of built Tamiya M113a1's at a flea market for a dollar each. I know its more fun to build from start to finish but, I couldnt resist. I think with a small amount of work I can fixem up. The glue that they were built with is what Im wondering about. Its not super glue like Im use to. It looks like a clear blob thats the only way i can explain it and takes a good hold when dry. If some of you know what it might be Im wondering if there is something that will break it down for easier removel. It might be some kind of modeling cement.

It might be testors glue. I know boiling breaks loose super glue but testors normally i try to cut it with a nice new #11 blade and make scores until you can pop the two pieces apart.

I'm with Nitro on this. It's probably Testors (or Revell) tube glue....a few swipes of a sharp #11 should remove any parts you want "parted." Should you want to remove the paint, some "spray can" oven cleaner will work wonders...soak it for a couple of hours and rinse well.

Mike

Easy Lift Off (ELO) Used to be a Floquil brand, but I think Testor's markets it now. I will strip the paint and the glue. Do not soak the model, you run the risk of melting it. Brush it on and let it "work" for 5 minutes or so. If the glue worked as advertised, it melted the parts together, in which case, you will indeed need to "score and snap" the parts apart.

Nail polish remover or Acetone will take care of super glue.

Thanks guys I will try some of the tips you mentioned.

Try sticking them in the freezer. I know it sounds strange, but at very low temperatures many glues become brittle and break easily. Furthermore, materials expand and contract differentially when heated or cooled, which tends to destroy bonds.

Joints welded with MEK (Tamiya or Testors liquid cement) can be a bit more problematic. If freezing does not help, a sharp knife may be the only way to go.

As stated, acetone breaks down superglue.

-Doug

If theTester glue didn't function as it should and weld the two plastic parts together, I strongly recommend the freezer first. Little risk of harm to the parts since you are taking advantage of the difference in expansion/contraction between the glue and the polystyrene. The glue also gets very brittle, but your kit might get that way two. Sometimes a couple of cycles of heating/cooling are in order. Sometimes glue bombs are easier to restore than well built kits.

If the parts were welded together, then careful work with a hobby knife is in store. By the time ELO would dissolve the bond you'd have a pile of goo. With two kits, you should be able to salvage enough parts to rebuild one complete. Just be sure the part you cut on one isn't the same as the other.