Hi guys !!
I can't seem to find any tips on making the tapered modern antenna as seen on armour in this day and age.
The easy way is to simply use wire and leave it that, however the tapered look is missing using this method.
Any tips on making antenna as seen below:
Cheers
Paul
Hosted by Darren Baker
Making Modern antenna - tips ?
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 12:42 PM UTC
Panzerup12
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 12:50 PM UTC
I would try to replicate this by heating up a section of sprue over a candle, you could pull it until the desired thickness and then cut to length.
jekrott
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 01:37 PM UTC
You can also use evergreen plastic rods cut it the size you need then simply sand one side to a point ,and your done .Hope that helps.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 01:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I would try to replicate this by heating up a section of sprue over a candle, you could pull it until the desired thickness and then cut to length.
Thanks Rob.
I did give that some thought as it is the most obvious solution. A bit tricky and a fair bit of trial an error to get the right thickness and length / straightness I guess.
I wonder if there is another way of doing it ?
Cheers Paul
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 01:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You can also use evergreen plastic rods cut it the size you need then simply sand one side to a point ,and your done .Hope that helps.
That may be do-able thanks Ed. A lot of sanding I guess, but no other easy method I figure.
I wonder if anyone has tried using putty or filler around a wire and sanding / building it up to get the taper.
Has anyone tried that ?
Cheers
Paul
Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 01:46 PM UTC
There was someone who said they use a lathe to get the desired effect, however I can't see how you would do this due to the diameters involved. Here is an idea I had but have not attempted as yet. Place some Evergreen in a slow speed drill, then have a flat edge against one side, then use a sanding stick to get a tapered finish of your choosing.
jekrott
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 01:59 PM UTC
I'v also tried that to, testers makes flexable sand paper in different grits, works great!
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 02:09 PM UTC
Thanks Ed, Darren, you guys are onto something there
I think I'll have to give the Evergeen a try.
I'm still infatuated with the idea of using spring steel wire from a hobby shop (I have some 0.15 inch) and using a filler or putty to build up the base and a little way up towards the tip
Paul
I think I'll have to give the Evergeen a try.
I'm still infatuated with the idea of using spring steel wire from a hobby shop (I have some 0.15 inch) and using a filler or putty to build up the base and a little way up towards the tip
Paul
Shadowfax
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 03:54 PM UTC
Hold the antennae upside down and let a drop of CA glue form on the tip. Hit it with Excelorator if needed. Paint it black or whatever color you need it to be.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, November 28, 2008 - 04:11 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hold the antennae upside down and let a drop of CA glue form on the tip. Hit it with Excelorator if needed. Paint it black or whatever color you need it to be.
Thanks Mark, great idea
Excuse my ignorance but......you mean CA Accelerator do you ?
Joker
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 02:00 AM UTC
Hi Paul,
I've been using Carbon Fibre for a while now. CF is great ( Accurate Armour carries it) as it doesn't have a memory, so it always springs back to shape ( important when transporting models to and from shows in closed topped boxes), takes paint and remains straight. Antenna top caps ( there is a name for them, I just can't remember at this time of the morning) are made from good old white glue as I try and get a bit of a tear drop shape, as opposed to a round ball. It takes me a couple of sessions to get the right shape.
Just my way,Hope it helps
Pete
I've been using Carbon Fibre for a while now. CF is great ( Accurate Armour carries it) as it doesn't have a memory, so it always springs back to shape ( important when transporting models to and from shows in closed topped boxes), takes paint and remains straight. Antenna top caps ( there is a name for them, I just can't remember at this time of the morning) are made from good old white glue as I try and get a bit of a tear drop shape, as opposed to a round ball. It takes me a couple of sessions to get the right shape.
Just my way,Hope it helps
Pete
bulivyf
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 02:57 AM UTC
I use plastic rod for strong antenna and string 0.2mm - 0.3mm for thin antenna.
Miloslav
Miloslav
PiperDan
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 05:21 AM UTC
I recently made a pair of antenna for a modern British vehicle. I used brass rod as the base material, I think 0.020" was the diameter I use.
I clamped the rod in the chuck of my motor tool, set it to a low speed, and then used 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to impart the slight taper along the length of the antenna. I worked slowly, stopping often to examine the rod until the desired taper was achieved.
I then wrapped bits of lead sheet (from a wine bottle) fixed with super-glue around the mid point of the antenna to represent the collar where the two sections are screwed together. After the super-glue had fully set up, I sanded the collar with a fine grit sanding stick (I think it was 320) to ensure that the collar was a consistent diameter.
This whole operation required less than 30 minutes of time, and I am quite happy with the result. The advantage of using brass rod is that it won't break if knocked about. I chose to leave both antenna (the vehicle has two) loose for ease of storage of the entire model when transporting it to and from shows and such.
I hope this helps you on your build(s).
Cheers - Dan
I clamped the rod in the chuck of my motor tool, set it to a low speed, and then used 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to impart the slight taper along the length of the antenna. I worked slowly, stopping often to examine the rod until the desired taper was achieved.
I then wrapped bits of lead sheet (from a wine bottle) fixed with super-glue around the mid point of the antenna to represent the collar where the two sections are screwed together. After the super-glue had fully set up, I sanded the collar with a fine grit sanding stick (I think it was 320) to ensure that the collar was a consistent diameter.
This whole operation required less than 30 minutes of time, and I am quite happy with the result. The advantage of using brass rod is that it won't break if knocked about. I chose to leave both antenna (the vehicle has two) loose for ease of storage of the entire model when transporting it to and from shows and such.
I hope this helps you on your build(s).
Cheers - Dan
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 08:00 AM UTC
Thanks Miroslav, Pete, Dan,
you're been really helpful and are using some great methods
There is definately more than one way to "skin a cat" by the looks of it. I think I'll have a play and try a few of these methods.
The brass rod method sounds appealing, but so do the others
Cheers
Paul
you're been really helpful and are using some great methods
There is definately more than one way to "skin a cat" by the looks of it. I think I'll have a play and try a few of these methods.
The brass rod method sounds appealing, but so do the others
Cheers
Paul
LeoCmdr
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 08:37 AM UTC
Adler's Nest, Lion Marc, and Armourscale all make tapered brass antennas for WWII German tanks...........they are all 2 metre antennas so they might be a bit short in height to use on all modern vehicles that use tapered antennas.
It all depends on your budget and degree of accuracy wanted......blah blah blah.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/lionmarc/lm60008.html
It all depends on your budget and degree of accuracy wanted......blah blah blah.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/lionmarc/lm60008.html
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 09:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Adler's Nest, Lion Marc, and Armourscale all make tapered brass antennas for WWII German tanks...........they are all 2 metre antennas so they might be a bit short in height to use on all modern vehicles that use tapered antennas.
It all depends on your budget and degree of accuracy wanted......blah blah blah.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/lionmarc/lm60008.html
Thanks Jason.
I think I have a couple of those in my stash somewhere now that I think of it
They were going to be used on a Panther G. So I'll check them out.
Cheers
Paul
LeoCmdr
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 09:20 PM UTC
LIke I said.....they might be a bit too short.......at 2 metres or 6 feet they should have about another 2 - 3 feet length to make them more accurate for modern antennas.
Maybe one of those companies will come out with a modern antenna set.......it would be simple for them to make longer tapered antennas.
Maybe one of those companies will come out with a modern antenna set.......it would be simple for them to make longer tapered antennas.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 09:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
LIke I said.....they might be a bit too short.......at 2 metres or 6 feet they should have about another 2 - 3 feet length to make them more accurate for modern antennas.
Maybe one of those companies will come out with a modern antenna set.......it would be simple for them to make longer tapered antennas.
I think I will try wire (spring steel) first and attach that to the model antenna base (after drilling a hole) having built-up a taper with some products mentioned here. (wow that was a mouthful !!).
Trial and error I guess at first. I'jj also try some of the other method's here too.
I see you've got some cool looking antenna's on some of your C2 builds Jason, how did you do those ?
Cheers
Paul
Tankrider
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 03:49 AM UTC
Paul,
Ahhh, another tip that I can expound on...
I have used the AA Carbon fiber as well as Modelmeca (A Spanish company, I believe) stainless steel wire antennas for my modern US Army builds... The US Army went to thinner, shorter. metallic antennas for their SINCGARS radios/antenna bases (as well as the older, fiberglass ones) so the use of the wire works for me.
To get the antenna ball, I suspend the wire from one of those "third hand' devices and apply a blob of CA to the lower end then spin the wire to get a uniform ball, finally apply CA accelerator to solidify the CA. Takes a bit of practice and the ball can be touched up with additional CA/ accelerator to get it to the correct shape.
Now who has a good recipe for the antenna base springs and retaining clips???
John
Ahhh, another tip that I can expound on...
I have used the AA Carbon fiber as well as Modelmeca (A Spanish company, I believe) stainless steel wire antennas for my modern US Army builds... The US Army went to thinner, shorter. metallic antennas for their SINCGARS radios/antenna bases (as well as the older, fiberglass ones) so the use of the wire works for me.
To get the antenna ball, I suspend the wire from one of those "third hand' devices and apply a blob of CA to the lower end then spin the wire to get a uniform ball, finally apply CA accelerator to solidify the CA. Takes a bit of practice and the ball can be touched up with additional CA/ accelerator to get it to the correct shape.
Now who has a good recipe for the antenna base springs and retaining clips???
John
ppawlak1
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 06:41 AM UTC
Thanks John,
If this technique is anywhere as good as the last one of yours I used, I'll be 'wrapped'.
Cheers
Paul
If this technique is anywhere as good as the last one of yours I used, I'll be 'wrapped'.
Cheers
Paul