Hosted by Darren Baker
M1064a3
jccraemer
North Carolina, United States
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 04:49 PM UTC
was doing research for a conversion/scratch build of a m1064a3 120mm mortar carrier and found a company called historica books that offer a resin convervison kit for the IDF M113/120mm mortar converison. does anyone know of any other kits out thier of the 120mm m121 mortar
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 04:56 PM UTC
MR Modelbau out of Germany has a conversion kit for the US M1064A3. I used it a while ago. It comes out really nice. I don't know of any other. I ordreed mine from Accurate Armour. It was cheaper from them than any US supplier. I don't know how different the Israeli version is.
Here's mine.
On Display Feature
Good luck.
Here's mine.
On Display Feature
Good luck.
jccraemer
North Carolina, United States
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 05:02 PM UTC
thanks, major
I seen a 120mm that you had done on mortars in miniature I believe thanks for the info
I seen a 120mm that you had done on mortars in miniature I believe thanks for the info
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 - 05:41 PM UTC
Yup, Keith posted some pics of it there too. One thing I found out after building mine. The let side mortar hatch should lay flatter, almost completely flat. The stopper piece on the roof for it should be cut down to allow it to lay lower.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Good luck and keep us posted.
jccraemer
North Carolina, United States
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Joined: December 24, 2007
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 262 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 12:36 AM UTC
thanks gino and gary for the info I already have a M106 in the stash so I'm going with the MR conversion. I'll post some pic during assemble and finished when done thanks again
Tankrider
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,208 posts
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,208 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 12:56 AM UTC
John,
What my esteemed comrades in M1064A3s building did not mention that the MR instructions are crap, to say the least. Make sure that you have some good references, either lots of pictures of the real thing or a TM. Out of the box(es) the model conversion builds into a great representation of a vehicle from the mid 90s to about 2003/2004. After 2004, the 1064A3s got a mortar controll system that allowed digital input from AFATDS to control the lay of the mortar... The control system can be added, if you have the references (I have some but not enough that I feel comfy in building it...)
I am currently half working on one and have been replacing a good number of the resin kit parts with scratchbuilt ones. I would also recommend that you use a Academy M113A2 hull (I am using a Academy as well as the M106A1 kits as donors) or add the shock at the #2 roadwheel. As G & G said, it does build up into a nice model, as their work shows...
HTH
John
What my esteemed comrades in M1064A3s building did not mention that the MR instructions are crap, to say the least. Make sure that you have some good references, either lots of pictures of the real thing or a TM. Out of the box(es) the model conversion builds into a great representation of a vehicle from the mid 90s to about 2003/2004. After 2004, the 1064A3s got a mortar controll system that allowed digital input from AFATDS to control the lay of the mortar... The control system can be added, if you have the references (I have some but not enough that I feel comfy in building it...)
I am currently half working on one and have been replacing a good number of the resin kit parts with scratchbuilt ones. I would also recommend that you use a Academy M113A2 hull (I am using a Academy as well as the M106A1 kits as donors) or add the shock at the #2 roadwheel. As G & G said, it does build up into a nice model, as their work shows...
HTH
John