Ok, here's the deal.....
I'm finally in sight of the finish for a little single-figure display piece. It's being built for a Christmas present, so I'm trying to get it right.
I'm using something called "Liquitex Gloss Heavy gel Medium", which I gathered (from this site) was the most commonly used substitute for expensive model water effects.
Problem is, I put the first application three days ago, and the thicker parts still haven't completely dried. Now, I realize that you can't slop this stuff on real thick, but the thickest places weren't even that thick, and it's been in the warmest room in the house for the last day and a half.
Right now, it looks like some gloss over the rocks, with a few milky colored areas. I'm wondering: How do you get a nice, full-bodied waterfall with this stuff, since it seems to only dry in thin amounts, so it just looks like the rocks are wet.
Normally, I'd just wait for it to dry, then keep applying more layers, but at this rate, it doesn't seem like it will work out that well.....I'll be lucky if it's done by Christmas
Any suggestions?
Hosted by Darren Baker
Making a waterfall, but need help.
exigent99
Joined: July 30, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 01:07 PM UTC
Cuhail
Illinois, United States
Joined: February 10, 2004
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Joined: February 10, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 06:55 PM UTC
I took a (rather) long look through some Railroad modeler forums and sites. I can't emphisize how much the 1/35 modeler can learn from the model railroaders. Scenery is their THING!
Model Railroader Forums
Quoted Text
Still ... I once did a pour of realistic water (the other product) and it literally took over three weeks to become clear. I have used water effects in several places and it always goes on white and eventually dries transparent to translucent.
Of course, there is always the drastic measure of scraping it off, Personally I would wait a while first.
I think that your gloss medium trick would work. You might want to use more than one layer, tinting only the bottom ones. Our local small river (about 200 feet wide) often runs brown during spring runoff. One can see a short way below the surface. Our large river (the Hudson) is more transluscent but still brown.
One of the few items I've found, but, I'll find a few more.
It sounds like time is your enemy. A little patience is the key to the clear water. But, hang in there, I'm still looking.
Cuhail
Cuhail
Illinois, United States
Joined: February 10, 2004
KitMaker: 2,058 posts
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Joined: February 10, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 07:19 PM UTC
Here's one method.
http://www.narrowgaugeunion.net/page16.html
This one is from another forum.
That's a good little external quote there.
So look arounf the railroad forums. The scale is sometimes different, but, the techniques are adaptable most of the time.
Cuhail
http://www.narrowgaugeunion.net/page16.html
This one is from another forum.
Quoted Text
from: http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3885
11. CREATING WATERFALLS
Modelling waterfalls can be a task fraught with frustration and heartbreak. Because of the nature of the feature it is difficult to model, but it can be done, well almost any way!
Here are three methods I have used to produce a reasonably realistic model of a waterfall.
Clear silicone sealer is spread onto a sheet of glass to form a long thin strip, the width of the required waterfall. If the glass is smeared with Vaseline or petroleum jelly before the silicone is added it will be easier to remove. Once the silicone has dried, peal it from the glass and you now have a waterfall. The silicone strip can be glued in place with a blob of silicone in the prepared area with the smooth face inwards. Adding a touch of full gloss varnish to the waterfall and adding some off-white foam at the base of the drop will give your waterfall a better appearance.
Another method, which also uses silicone sealer, is to reinforce the strip longitudinally with thin clear plastic filaments. When I used this method to produce a waterfall, I obtained the filaments from an old T.V. light that consisted of a spray of thin clear plastic fibres illuminated by a coloured light. The reinforcing produces a hint of vertical fall in the waterfall and also gives the silicone some body so that it is easier to handle.
A simpler method is to glue clear plastic strips into position and to coat them with full gloss varnish. If the varnish can be poured into the river above the falls and let run down and over the falls it does produce a good representation of a waterfall. Again add white water and ripples below the falls to give the correct effect.
Good luck with modelling your water.
That's a good little external quote there.
So look arounf the railroad forums. The scale is sometimes different, but, the techniques are adaptable most of the time.
Cuhail
feelpanzer
West-Vlaaderen, Belgium
Joined: October 28, 2004
KitMaker: 122 posts
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Joined: October 28, 2004
KitMaker: 122 posts
Armorama: 93 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 11:02 AM UTC
hello,
i've seen some products of the joefix-studio company.
I think it was number 803 they use for creating waterfalls.
www.joefix-studio.be
feel the panzer
i've seen some products of the joefix-studio company.
I think it was number 803 they use for creating waterfalls.
www.joefix-studio.be
feel the panzer
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
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Joined: May 05, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 08:42 AM UTC
Getting kind of late, but click here and look through the SBS on the right listed as Last of the Mohicans.