Hi guys,

Its my first time using future as a gloss varnish. My next step is using the oil washes(thinned with turpentine). I was wondering whether the turpentine will have any adverse reaction with the future varnish?i.e. pull the paint off?

Brandon
Thanks!

If you're using odorless turpenoid (in the US it comes in a blue can), then it shouldn't strip Future if you don't rub it down too hard. That said, you may want to test things out on a scrap piece of plastic or an old model to see how your turpentine reacts with future. Make sure the Future coat cures completely (at least 48 hours or so, to be on the safe side).

Oh ok! Thanks Lucas!

Same in Canada.

I found out that the hard way. I used the stuff in the green can. What a mess!

Live and learn. Like Lucas said, always test something on a scrap model or something. Makes the hobby alot more enjoyable that way and with fewer suprises.

Jeff

Use white spirit not turps, I believe on that side of the pond you call it mineral spirits or some such name.

Darren is right--if you want a wash that will not attack Future in any way, definitely go for mineral (white) spirits. Turpentine and Turpenoid are "hotter" than mineral spirits, so you have be more careful when using them.

I always put down a coat of Model Master Acryl clear coat before I break out the turpentine. I've never had any problems with that system.

Turps has only 3 uses, stripping paint, cleaning brushes, with enough left over for a drink.

In my experience turpentine is the best medium (compared to alcohol with acrylics and various mineral spirits with oils/enamels) for washes with oil paints, it has the best drying properties and pigment control. It's also easy to remove excess. It's worth using if you have a solid clear coat to protect the model.

The worst experience I have had is with "natural/green" odorless oil thinners. They are useless for washes, only good for brush cleaning.

I've just used turps in an oil wash over future and had no problems. I've then used turps soacked
cotton wool to wipe off any excess wash. I now have to give the model a coat of matt acrylic varnish
as I use turps to bind my dusting pigments to the model. See this build and painting by
James Tainton which I found very helpful.

http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5270

P.S. I used 2 coats of future and let it dry and settle for 24 hrs before I done the wash.

Wish you luck in your build

I don't mean to get off the subject, but what would be the reason to use Future versus say Laquer, Nitrocellulose or otherwise, just cost?

Future is cheap as dirt, easy to find, smells nice, and won't attack any paints. Lacquers can attack milder paints and smell like vaporized death. Acryls are a nice balance but they are expensive compared to Future, which works just as well for most applications. For a high gloss finish I use anything other than Future, however - it tends to soak into matt base coats and requires a lot of coats to get a smooth finish.

PS Future is a fantastic way to make clear parts super smooth and clear - dunk the part in, dab off the excess, and let it dry overnight. You end up with a hard, perfectly smooth finish that will eliminate frosting and minor scratching. Perfect for aircraft canopies.

Shouldn't be a problem - but just make sure that your Future is good and hard before applying the wash. I usually let it stand for at least 48 hours, just to be sure.

Another tip: Make sure you get into all the nooks & crannies with the Future (e.g. track joints), otherwise the wash may attack the cement and the whole thing can come apart - I learned that the hard way!

- Steve

Hi guys,

Thanks greatly for your valuable input. Have started the washes. No probs so far. Actually i usually use lacquer based gloss coats. Just that i happen to hear quite a bit about ppl using future for the gloss coat, so tot i'd give it a try.

Cheers & thanks once again!
Brandon