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wash ?
bigal07
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
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Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 09:57 AM UTC
Scott kindly posted my photo on the 1-72 dock diorama I am part way through, and just to check that I'm in the right place for beginners - what is wash ? On my harbour wall, I'll have redish brown wood cemented with a panel of light grey concrete, and it requires a wash, I assume this is something you do to high light something, but what it is, and what colour or type of paint would I need - look forward to your reply.
xFOX_HOUNDx
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 03, 2007
KitMaker: 249 posts
Armorama: 230 posts
Joined: May 03, 2007
KitMaker: 249 posts
Armorama: 230 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 11:59 AM UTC
Hey AL! A wash isn't actually used to highlight something. A wash is actually used to add depth to an object, and do bring out details. You want to put a dark color in all the recesses on a surface. I like to put a clear coat on the subject first to add a layer of protection then I use artist oils (burt umber, raw sienna, paynes gray) heavily thinned with mineral spirits so it basically looks like tinted thinner rather than thinned paint. I just dunk an appropriate sized paint brush into the wash and then run it along any recesses allowing it to accumulate in all the crevices and recesses on the model or surface. With a clear coat applied any excess wash is easily cleaned up with a moist cloth. If you have used a enamel base when you painted your subject be careful when applying the wash because if too much is applied to the non-recessed areas you run the risk of lifting off some of the paint. If you used acrillics you are good to go. I believe Youtube.com has a few videos showing the technique if you type in "applying a wash". Hope this helps! Good Luck!
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 01:56 PM UTC
Dave has hit it pretty well.
I use oil mixed with terpentine over acrylics (sometime sealed with future sometimes not).
I tend to use very thin color wash, more thinner less wash. Then add extra layers to build up color. It's easier to add color than take it away.
On you dock, I would use burnt umber as my color in a braille scale. Black may be too stark.
You may see posts that call for pin washes or filters. The main difference is that pin washes or point washes or shadow washes are targeted at just the recesses. Drag your brush along the low areas that need the shadow color. Use a small point/round brush
A filter or area wash is a wash that is applied to an all over area such as the deck of your PBR or the whole hull. The goal is to give the base color a new tone with the thin wash, a filter that affects the whole area not just a shadow. Use a wide square brush for this.
I use oil mixed with terpentine over acrylics (sometime sealed with future sometimes not).
I tend to use very thin color wash, more thinner less wash. Then add extra layers to build up color. It's easier to add color than take it away.
On you dock, I would use burnt umber as my color in a braille scale. Black may be too stark.
You may see posts that call for pin washes or filters. The main difference is that pin washes or point washes or shadow washes are targeted at just the recesses. Drag your brush along the low areas that need the shadow color. Use a small point/round brush
A filter or area wash is a wash that is applied to an all over area such as the deck of your PBR or the whole hull. The goal is to give the base color a new tone with the thin wash, a filter that affects the whole area not just a shadow. Use a wide square brush for this.
bigal07
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 09:58 AM UTC
Thank you for the info, I'm still a little unclear as to what paint (type of) and where to buy it from, for all my scale warship models, I've always used enamel paint, and although my little diorama might not be the best, and a long way from finishing, I am actually enjoying it, which I have done in a long time, I guess you're more or less stuck with models and what you can actually do with them, but with the diorama, you're building with your mind and your hands.
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 01:26 PM UTC
I use artist oil paint. I buy a tube that is 4oz (I think), about the size of a short tube of toothpaste. You can get a smaller size if you choose, costs less and you don't feel as compelled to use it.
Not sure of store names or types in the UK, but a decent art store or hobby shop will probably have artist oils.
Some people have successfully used acrylics for washes. I have, but don't like the quantity you have to use to get the wash. I also like the look and coverage of oils.
I would use oil washes on small scale ships, maybe not as much but it would help make details pop out a bit more. Do a basic paint job with enamels. Then add a layer of clear sealer. Then add the wash. The clear sealer can be glossy, it will help the wash flow (gloss is smoother than dull coats). If you do a gloss coat then washes, finish with a dull coat over the top of everything.
Not sure of store names or types in the UK, but a decent art store or hobby shop will probably have artist oils.
Some people have successfully used acrylics for washes. I have, but don't like the quantity you have to use to get the wash. I also like the look and coverage of oils.
I would use oil washes on small scale ships, maybe not as much but it would help make details pop out a bit more. Do a basic paint job with enamels. Then add a layer of clear sealer. Then add the wash. The clear sealer can be glossy, it will help the wash flow (gloss is smoother than dull coats). If you do a gloss coat then washes, finish with a dull coat over the top of everything.
panzergoth
New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 28, 2005
KitMaker: 142 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Joined: December 28, 2005
KitMaker: 142 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 04:36 PM UTC
Hi Al, If you are not to sure about paint types then a good rule of thumb to follow is to use a dissimilar wash base than your initial paint coat base, ie; if you are using enamels, then you may want to use an acrylic wash and vice versa. The reason for this is that you can lift you finish off if you use a turpentine thinned wash over an enamel base coat. I always airbrush with acrylics and then use an oil based wash, this way there is no possibility of ever damaging my finish. I am not in any way trying to contradict the previous advice because they are correct , but if you are just getting started out this may be a safer route . Believe me, I learned the hard way. You may also want to try the procedure on a test piece first to see the results before you do the main subject, good luck, Jim Rosado