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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Tamiya M5 Stuart Build
ww2modeler
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:19 AM UTC
Hi all, this is my Tamiya 1/35 M5 Stuart build log. I just started the kit a week ago and this is what I've done so far. I am not using any AM parts, just a straight OOB build with some stowage from the Tamiya set. All comments, criticism, and critiques are welcome. I will probably update it atleast once every week.

Heres some pictures so far:





And now a question.....on step 4 it shows to attach part A20 to the lower hull. But I am not sure where exactly it should rest. Any advice on this? Here is the instruction, A20, and the lower hull where it needs to be attached.





Thanks,
David
BigfootV
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:24 AM UTC
Dave,

Alittle fuzzy on the photo in question. Let me get some photos of that for you. Hang on.
ww2modeler
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:30 AM UTC
Ya, I know, sorry about that. My camera doesnt focus that well up close. I will try to get some better pictures.

David
ww2modeler
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:44 AM UTC
I tried to take some clearer pics so here they are. I also showed the dry-fitting. I think I may just be over analyzing it. It fits like that but it just looks so strange with that flat piece of plastic. Is this just an underdetailed part or am I doing something wrong?

Directions:

A20 itself:

Dry fitting:





David

BigfootV
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 07:48 AM UTC
Mine are not that great either. But this is what it should look like.









Hope these help.
ww2modeler
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 08:12 AM UTC
Okay, thanks, that how I thought it went but it just looked so strange with that piece of flat plastic if viewed from underneath.

Thanks,

David
BigfootV
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 08:30 AM UTC
Dave,

No problem. Looked strange when I built mine also.
Word of caution, when you put the drive sprockets together, make sure that line up.
Mine didn't line up right, oversight on my part. Builder error.

Anyways, there's is other build post that Damraska as done of the same kit. Check It out.
Eaglewatch
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Posted: Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 01:26 PM UTC
It's looking good so far David keep at it
ww2modeler
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 03:30 AM UTC
Okay, not much to update. Finished attaching all the little grab things on the rear hull. What are they called? And working on the front plate now. I will have a couple pictures up later.

David
lucer105
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 04:25 AM UTC
It seems that all track linkers are in wrong place
ww2modeler
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Posted: Monday, May 04, 2009 - 11:58 AM UTC
Hey guys, sorry for the really long period of no updates. I got sidetracked with school work and studying and on top of that my model chair broke and we didnt have an extra one so I had to wait to get it fixed (not really but its a real PITA to lug a chair up and down the stairs


Anyway, I finished "building" the kit, I just have to paint and then add some of the stowage. So heres some pics, all comments, criticisms, suggestions, etc. is welcome and appreciated.










Thanks,
David
Belt_Fed
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Posted: Monday, May 04, 2009 - 01:22 PM UTC
Joints look a little sploppy on the hull and turret top. Could just be the plastic. Primer and paint will reveal all

Sorry to hear about you "casualty." We all need our excersize tho!

Keep on rockin'. Go put some Olive Drab on her!
ww2modeler
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Posted: Monday, May 04, 2009 - 01:27 PM UTC
Yea, I know about the exercise lol, I am 14 and I play lacrosse and hockey almost every weekend and during the week so most of the time its tough going up the stairs just by myself.

And thanks for pointing out the sloppiness on the joints....do you, or anyone else, have any tips for fixing that?

Thanks,
David
GaryKato
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Posted: Monday, May 04, 2009 - 02:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

It seems that all track linkers are in wrong place



That is a problem with the Tamiya tracks. The connectors link the blocks to themselves instead of to their neighbors. You can get replacement tracks from AFV Club. I have this kit 95% done (need to paint and add tools, Commander's MG, grousers, decals) and decided not to use the AFV Club set I had. Next time I figure I'll just build the AFV Club M5A1.
CHESTERNIMITZ
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Posted: Monday, May 04, 2009 - 10:25 PM UTC
Hi, I like your work, I would comentarte I've seen the tip of the canyon is as crooked. One could fix. Greetings
BigfootV
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 02:03 AM UTC
David,
Looking good so far. The tip of the barrel looks like it went south on you. I didn't have that problem with the kit I build. What Happened? Mold issues?

ww2modeler
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 08:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

David,
Looking good so far. The tip of the barrel looks like it went south on you. I didn't have that problem with the kit I build. What Happened? Mold issues?




I am really not sure, I think it was my fault though. It just didnt seem to line up right, I might try to reposition it though. It has that offcenter look to it.

David
CHESTERNIMITZ
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 11:23 AM UTC
And no one could fix with a gun metal?
ww2modeler
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 12:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

And no one could fix with a gun metal?



I am not quite sure what you ment, sorry.

I am guessing you ment an aluminum barrel.....well its just that I get most of my kits from the LHS and a squadron order once or twice a year and my income is sort of limited (14) lol so I dont really ever buy AM stuff.

David
Belt_Fed
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 01:15 PM UTC
Ahh, lacross, hocky AND stairs. Kids will be kids i guess. Ahh, to be 14 again. Let me think....how long ago was that? Oh yea. Thats right. one year ago Oh how time flies!

As for the joints, there are pleanty of ways to fix them. I like doing it this way. Scott Espin told me it. Take a brush and dab on some Mr. Surfacer 500 (dont think its sold in hobby shops anymore....check squadron/ spruebrothers if you dont already have some) and let it flow in the seams. Wait five minutes or so, just enough for it to dry to the touch. Then take a Q-Tip damp with rubbing alcohol (71% works fine for me) and cntinuisly rub the seam. It may take a couple strokes but eventually it will wipe smooth. It may take a few applications to get everything good, but it beats the hell out of sanding.
ww2modeler
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Posted: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 01:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Ahh, lacross, hocky AND stairs. Kids will be kids i guess. Ahh, to be 14 again. Let me think....how long ago was that? Oh yea. Thats right. one year ago Oh how time flies!

As for the joints, there are pleanty of ways to fix them. I like doing it this way. Scott Espin told me it. Take a brush and dab on some Mr. Surfacer 500 (dont think its sold in hobby shops anymore....check squadron/ spruebrothers if you dont already have some) and let it flow in the seams. Wait five minutes or so, just enough for it to dry to the touch. Then take a Q-Tip damp with rubbing alcohol (71% works fine for me) and cntinuisly rub the seam. It may take a couple strokes but eventually it will wipe smooth. It may take a few applications to get everything good, but it beats the hell out of sanding.



Thanks for the advice, and glad to see a fellow younger modeler, just a question.....but since I cant really make a squadron order everyday would the same technique work with some thinned down putty?

David
ww2modeler
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Posted: Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 11:34 AM UTC
Okay, well I am hoping to paint it this weekend and I want to do a plain Olive Drab tank in Normandy. The question I have, and I am sure this has been answered a million times already, sorry, is:
How do you make Olive Drab look interesting on a tank and is there anything you should do before you paint it to make it look better? Also, is the plain Tamiya Olive Drab accurate for the model or should anything be done to it?

Thanks,
David
Belt_Fed
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Posted: Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 12:41 PM UTC
Assuming you have an airbrush? thats a BIG variable. If you do:
Pre-shade- use a darker color than the base color. Tamiya OD is really dark, so i usually use flat black. make sure you get the black over the ENTIRE model- especially in the cracks and crooks.

Base coat- Need a bit of airbrush control for this. load your airbrush with tamiya OD and paint panel by panel. However, leave black 1-2 cm around the edges of each panel (where possible). When you are done it will look kinda wierd, but we arent done.

high-light- Take some tamiya OD and add about 25% white, buff, or dark yellow (whichever you have) Then spray subtly in the centers in panels. Do this in verticle steaks on vertical surfaces and "little clouds" on horizontal surfaces.

Finishing touch- Now, what you have at this stage is a goody looking AFV. Dont fret, this is the easy part. (hard part was getting the flat black in all those crannies .) Take some tamiya OD and thin it 50-50 with thinner. now spray in light passes over your model. It will take a couple of passses, but eventually you will see all the colors blend subtly adding more interest to your paint. As always, practice is key here. it takes a few tries to get it "right"

Now as far as how accurate tamiya OD is, well, its close enough. I personally prefer the Lifecolor shade but.......


Now if you are using a brush.....i dont have the slightest clue. Never was very good with those primative things.
ww2modeler
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Posted: Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 01:57 PM UTC
Okay, thank you so much, and yes I have an airbrush, but not much practice with it.

Thanks again,
David
BigfootV
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Posted: Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 05:17 PM UTC
David,
I use Testors Model Master Paints. Alittle pricey at $3.50+ a bottle for you maybe. Grab a bottle if you can and try it. The Dodge Staff car is painted in the OD.



HTH.

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