Hi everybody, I haven't posted in a while.

Shortly before Christmas I started building DML's Sd.Kfz.184 Ferdinand 'Premium Edition' (6317) model. I chose this kit because it seemed like the perfect kit to build oob and try out the modulation style technique on. When I say 'modulation style' I mean the technique described in MIG's latest dvd release. If anyone is interested in looking for a new way to finish their models then I can do no more but to wholeheartedly recommend this dvd. I love it. Enough advertising for this post.
The Dragon kit itself went together quite nicely and I encountered only a few problems with the fit of the front plate on the main hull. I also do not own a hold and fold set and therefor shaping the PE fenders was quite tedious work and I could have done a better job, you'll know what I mean when looking at the left one. I did the right one first though and it turned out better . Some smaller parts were omitted and will be added later prior to the weathering stage. After most of the assembly was completed I primed the tank with Tamiya Light Grey Primer.
Before I continue I would just like to inform you all that I am not the most experienced modeler out there and I have no experience with the modulation style technique so bare with me on this one. I just hope that I don't screw up big time.
After the primer dried for several weeks I painted some areas with Tamiya XF-1 (thinned with Gaianotes Lacquer Thinner) where shadows would exist on the real thing. This step was somewhat overdone but I was so amazed at how much more vivid and fine the paint appeared on the model thinned with lacquer thinner than with regular Tamiya thinner or alcohol. I hope that I'll be able to spray on a base coat of Dunkelgelb tonight whilst leaving some of the black areas darker and making the model appear more interesting to the human eye. Enough said for now, here's what you waited for (or you just skipped the text):

The building phase:











Primed Ferdinand:



Preshading:












Thank you for viewing and please feel free to post constructive critique and suggestions if you have any!

Cheers y'all!

-Mike-

Hi Mike,
I'm working on a Dragon premium Elefant, How did you do the brass sheet running boards?
I was planning to solder the big parts and then superglue the smaller parts.

Great model.


Matt

Hey Matt,

I didn't solder anything. I don't have any experience soldering PE and therefore I thought it would be best to try cyanacrylat for the whole job. First I added the 'kink' on the sides of all the individual fender parts by scribing a crevice into the back of the parts with my trusty exacto knife. This helped bending the PE parts to the desired shape without the aid of a hold and fold set. Then I let the model rest on the opposite side of where I was about to glue the fender parts to. This enabled me to ad cynacrylat to the bottom of the fenders and hold them down vertically onto the model simultaneously. The fenders are very messy below but this isn't an issue as the visible glue will be covered by 'mud' later. Seeing as I attached all of the parts separately the fit wasn't always perfect. Small vacancies were present where light would shine through or where you could literally look through. These holes were carefully filled with Mr. White Putty.
That's pretty much it, hope I could help!

Good luck with that Elefant!

-Mike-

Hi Mike,
this is nice one, interesting model. I am just trying the same painting technique on my Kubelwagen. Tamiya paints with lacquer thinner are great to airbrush using modulation style, shadows required are done easily, like I have found out today. I used to mix Tamiya paints with acrylic varnish, which is originally developed for curing of wooden floors, but it brings great abrasion resistance. However, this varnish cannot be used with lacquer thinner, that is pity, but I will try to use it for varnish coat before washes are applied. What I was gonna say, that mentioned painting way seems to be working well. I hope you´ll show some more pictures soon. By the way, what cyanacrylat you work with? Can you recommend any? I was trying soldering PE, but it did not work good, maybe if I had in forums recommended acids, which I did not have. My soldering paste got me disappointed. I have used different glues with different results, but no one I would be happy with. I want to try some two-part epoxy resin in the future, but any advice is most welcome. What else now? Well, once again, nice model!
Libor

Hey libor,

thanks for the praise. I hope everything will continue to go as smoothly as it has so far. You're quite the daredevil to try this technique on a Kübelwagen. I chose a Ferdinand mainly because it's quite a big model. The Kübelwagen on the other hand is very small and requires a lot more patience. Good luck and post some pictures of the process!
As for the cyanacrylat I just use the regular kind that you'll find at your local HS. It comes in a small bottle with an application nozzle. I have stumbled upon three different kinds of cyanacrylat here in Germany: very viscous, medium and thin. I use the thin kind as it is easy to apply. I started out using the very viscous kind because I didn't know that there was a thinner kind available. I always needed a toothpick to apply it, what a hassle. I don't think that there are different brands either, just buy whatever cyanacrylat you find. It's the best kind of glue to use on PE parts. I find that two-part glues are too difficult and circuitous to be used effectively. So, just buy whatever you find, it'll work well for sure.

Cheers!

-Mike-

Well, Mike, it is not to bad, ´cause my Kubel is 1/16, so almost you Ferdinand size
You can see it here in the topic anyway. You know, these glues are kinda funny, I was attaching many over 1000 PE parts on my Br 52 (here in topic as well), and like I said, tried maybe 6 different glues, but was not happy with any. Loctite family was probably the best of them, mainly gel, but I could not use it with some pieces, there where thin glue was needed to infuse in. Terrible job, have to find something better. I will open a new topic with this question here soon, I gues. Thanks for advice, I´ll be in touch.
Libor

Hi Mike just stumbled across your build log and i have to say that Ferdinand is looking pretty darn impressive you gotta post us some more pics of your progress mate as from what i've seen so far this beast is looking brilliant

Great progress Mike, your preshading and painting so far looks good. Keep us updated!

Cheers -
Tim

Hei Mike, I always like to see when new techniques are tried out and posted! You have some 'Pionier-Geist'
I was looking for an Elephant too, to try out color modulation. The DVD is very good but there are missing examples of finished models in modulation style..

Your project is looking very good, but I have a little thing that I was wondering: The pre-shading on the upper hull cabin. I don't think that the shadows should be there, because these plates are all exposed to light... I hope you know what and where I mean.
I'm looking forward to more progress! Keep up the good work!