Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Advice please: Priming multimetals on models
Wolf-Leader
New Hampshire, United States
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Posted: Monday, June 09, 2003 - 01:53 AM UTC
I would like to know what type of primmer I will be needing to prime my model, if I even need to prime the model? I have a lot of brass and a Aluminum barrel to be painted and I really don't want any of the paint to flake off the metal parts, can anyone help?
sgirty
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, June 09, 2003 - 02:34 AM UTC
Hi, I use a primer called Varsity Fast Drying Primer I get at the local Pet Boys auto parts shop just up the road a ways. I pay around $2 a can for it. It comes in a red oxide, light grey and I think also a flat black as well.
I don't noramlly use much PE except on intake screens, but I do like to uses those aluminum barrels and those lovely white metal track links from Friulmodel, plus the resin and plastic after-market parts as well, and have no problems from it at all, yet. It seems to have a very finely ground pigment to it and doesn't give that gritty, out-of-scale appearance that I've gotten from other auto body primers. I most generally let it dry and set for 24 hours before doing anything else to it, but have only let it cure out for a couple of hours and painted over top of it with no ill effects. Have used Polly S, Model Master, and Tamiya paints over it and again, no problems. Of course that doesn't mean that one of these days I won't have problems (probably a goof up on my part), but so far all has been okay.
Take care and good luck, sgirty
I don't noramlly use much PE except on intake screens, but I do like to uses those aluminum barrels and those lovely white metal track links from Friulmodel, plus the resin and plastic after-market parts as well, and have no problems from it at all, yet. It seems to have a very finely ground pigment to it and doesn't give that gritty, out-of-scale appearance that I've gotten from other auto body primers. I most generally let it dry and set for 24 hours before doing anything else to it, but have only let it cure out for a couple of hours and painted over top of it with no ill effects. Have used Polly S, Model Master, and Tamiya paints over it and again, no problems. Of course that doesn't mean that one of these days I won't have problems (probably a goof up on my part), but so far all has been okay.
Take care and good luck, sgirty
scoccia
Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Posted: Monday, June 09, 2003 - 07:19 PM UTC
I use a general purpose acrylic primer I buy at art crafts stores. It's quite cheap, covers very well, can be thinned with water, and can be airbrushed too...
Ciao
Ciao