Just recieved a tube of faded dark yellow,and when i opened the top the color is orange?has anyone used this color yet,i thought it might be a lighter dark yellow.

Regards
Karl

Hello Karl,

I have got this colour too and I was also surprised about its orange colour.

Therefore I use it to only alter the base coat but for fadings white oil color is a powerful weapon.

Look at my Tiger at the Eastern Front Campaign (amongst the last sides) and you see what I mean.

"Faded Yellow " - what a joke...

Am going to try a bit later on my kublewagen and see what color it turns out.

Just had a look at your tiger and i see what you mean about the white oils,very nice model

Thanks
Karl

Hello Karl,

unfortunately I was pressed for time today morning, so I have not enough time to upload some pics how this so called "Faded Yellow" does look.

The other colour you see is 502's "Buff".














Their oil paints are really really pretty and I do not want miss them...but this "Faded Yellow"...

can I ask what kind of finish did you apply the oils to such as gloss, satin, or flat and what did you use to thin the oils out with.
I have a sherman I was using oils on in the same way and I only succeded in applying permanent dots on the finish.

Hello Fred,

it depends on what for an effect you want to achieve.

On these pictures I used MIG's "Thinner For Washes" to only break off the monochromatic look of the base colour "Dark Yellow".

Any other enamel thinner does work as well.

Before I applied the washing consisting of thinned enamels too I sealed the colour coat you see on the picture with acrylic gloss coat.

Otherwise the oil colours would have been removed with the washing.

For fadings I recommend to blend in the oil colours without any thinner by using a dry flat brush - the softer it is the better.

Hope that helps a little.

The only way to find out why its orange is to go on migs forum and ask the man himself,as am not a member of his site i shall have to register.Marco i shall report back if i get an answer

Kind Regards
Karl

Rather than insult some of the best products and ideas that someone has brought to this hobby why dont you as Mig the reson for the color being like this. He is a member of Armorama and is regularly on the forums.

Hello Anthony,

no one has insulted anyone.

And I am far away of doing this.

If you would read my are other postings within this thread that carefully like you did my first one you will see that I am a great fan of Mig's products (look at the bottom of the posting with the pics...).

But if something is labeled as "Faded Yellow" and it is as orange as the lights of a warning lamp then I do not need to ask anyone for the "Why" or how to use it...


"Faded Yellow" is simply a disappointment and it cannot be used for fadings on yellow colours (as you can see) as long as you do not mix it (in this case with lighter colours e.g. "Buff" or "White").

But then this colour has missed its aim as these 502-colours have been primarily created to save from mixing.

Otherwise I could buy (and then mix) usual oil paints which are also excellent - at least those of Schmincke.

Hello everybody.

I am very sorry, because I almost lost this conversation, and I was very busy this week.

Well, the oils was not developed to be used without mixing or something like that. I just made some new colors which is good for me, so...maybe for others too. But the oils can be used alone or mixed.
About Faded Dark Yellow....the fading is not always lighter than the original color. Many times the colors suffer many kind of discolorations or waste, and the resulting look is not necesarily more light. This ocrhe or orange color was made to create a more wariety over dark yellow colors, usually a bit "dead" in my opinion. Using This fading color in combination with white or brown can give us all varieties for all kind of models.

If you was use this oil for the technque that I use very often, I never use the color alone, but in combination, because it is the real purpouse of the fading colors....same as navy fading blue color.

If you want use it for different purpouses that the originaly one, them is normal that any of you find a inapropiated color. Maybe is better to choose another technique or paint type.

And here some examples of the correct usage...and you can see the results:

In a PzIII 1/16:





Final stage (now is unfinished, I must add chips and dust)



Another example:

A Panther 1/48







And final look:



And one more example:







And final look:






So...well, to me that color works very well. I haven't examples of only one color, but I am doing a 221 in sand color and I will show the result. But, combinating 3 or more colores will give us better result that only one....because if you apply only one and you distribute over the surface in a uniform way, you will get a FILTER look but not a fading look.

I hope it can help.

Thank you

Mig Jimenez

Ok, I prepared now some samples to explain the difference between each fading...
This way is very easy to understand, and each one can get their own conclusions.

I think that is not necesary words:

Ok, this is out Tank painted in dark yellow:



Now, we will make the fading as some of you said...just with a light fading tone as buff or others (this supose to be the perfect fading dark yellow for some of you, right??)



We mix it and this is the result, a bit...boring or too light:



Now, let's go with the Orange version of faded dark yellow:



Well, the results is alos boring, but maybe less...



And now with 3 color combinations:



And the result:



And finally, the frikies version...for dots lovers:





Some people do it.....


MIG JImenez

Hello Mig,

thanks for your efforts to upload the pics and explaining how to use your colours for fadings.

The technics you have shown match those Adam Wilder used in your hosted feature colour modulation I considered for my Tiger.

(And the pics of my Tiger here show simply altering the basecoat - as mentioned in my posting above).

But "Faded" implicates to brighten up something.

So I used for my Tiger nearly the same color mixture you have shown on your pics in the same way.

And without white a real fading effect (in the sense of fading) did not happen, it would have been weathering in the sense of soiling...

So "Faded Yellow" is insofar an exception as all the other colours - at least those I have in my stash - look like that how it is labeled e.g. Light Mud, Dark Mud, Rust.

Hi Marco. I was kind of puzzled by your statement of fading means to brighten something up. After I thought about it for awhile I think I know what you mean. For example a new pair of blue jeans are very dark when new. Over time and many washings they lose color as they go from dark blue to a very pale blue. While the pale blue may be considered brighter, it is actually caused by a loss of the depth of the original color. Dark OD green canvas fades the same way and both that and the jeans could eventually end up white if they could last long enough. When I think of a color fading I think of it in terms of losing the original coloration and it becoming something else. But even white can fade and it doesn't become brighter when it does. As Mig said, not all colors become lighter when they fade so I don't think you can correctly say fading means to brighten a color. This may be simply a language thing. If so, forgive my intrusion.

Great thread! I just got 8 of the colors to try (including the faded yellow) so I feel more confident to begin experimenting.

Thank you for the VERY helpful post! I understand the technique a LOT better with the great visual aids.

Cordially,

Dennis

Thank you Mr. Jimenez for this nice tutorial, we highly appreciate it when manufacturers take resposibility of their products and if necessary, is willing to show how to use them right way!

Hi everyone,

I've have never used oil paints so I have a question about them. Is it the paint that smells bad or is it what you use to thin it?
Thanks,
M4A2Sherman

they do have an odor, but i don't think it's that bad, not overpowering on their own. they are essentially artist oils, but of specific colors useful to modelers. personally, i think enamels and lacquers permeate an area with odors more heavily than oils. if you ever made one of those paint by number paintings, the smell is similar to those paints, but not as strong. i don't know if they still make them, but i remember making several of them when i was a kid. i use turpenoid as a thinner because it's almost completely odor free. regular turpentine is very strong smelling and will stink up an area. Mig's Odourless Turpentine in the 502 Abteilung series, abt.111, is also very, very mild smelling. i have seen other types of thinners recommended, but reported results for those, while mostly positive, have contained negatives ranging from reactions with plastic to paint never drying completely. i tend to stick with what i know works and i know turpenoid and MIG turpentine WORK!

bear in mind only small quantities of the paint are used as in Mig's fine examples. more thinner is used that paint. in some cases, very small areas are treated. a wash is made that typically consists of 1 part paint to about 9 to 10 parts thinner. this is used to accent panel lines, for example, by touching a brush to the line and capillary type action sends the wash along the recessed line so that it is accented. spills and stains are similarly created. with these uses the amount of thinned paint used is minute. even a bottle-cap full will often be more than enough.

another rule of thumb is use the opposite type of paint for filters/washes than what the base paint is. in other words, if the base paint is an acrylic, it's OK to use a thinned oil based paint over it. if it's an enamel based base paint, use acrylics appropriately diluted for filters/washes OR cover with a clear coat, acrylic or Future, first and then use the oil based washes. with enamels there is a chance the original finish will be marred from the thinning agent used for the oils. some members here have said that they DO use oil based washes and filters over enamels without the clear coat and have done so successfully. personally, i'm too chicken to risk ruining a paint job! but, as i continue to wean myself from enamels and move to 100% acrylics, this is gradually becoming less an issue.

Wow Thanks!!!!!!

Hello Jim,

indeed it is like that you have described it with the example about the jeans.

Fading in the sense of bleaching cotton (the German word is 'bleichen' and means both).

So if I read "faded colour xy" I expect a 'bleached' tone.

Over the time something looses its original colour and at the final stage at first sight it looks similar to white (though it is not).

But at all the description "Faded Dark Yellow" seems to be ambiguous - why else do two different persons from different countries expect a lightened up colour?

(And one of these both guys speaks English as a native language...)

For one, I didn't interpret the names of these colors as literally as I would have if they were artist's colors. These colors are created to enhance finishes on military models so I interpret the names in that context. I don't think you would find Light Rust Brown or Luftwaffe Yellow among the Windsor - Newton colors, at least they wouldn't be called that. Something I learned about paints was that the addition of white or black can lighten (fade) a base color or darken it. For example, I saw a cool technique used on vehicles with large, relatively featureless surface areas. A bit of white paint is added to the color it was first painted in and then this lightened shade is sprayed on areas of the surface to give a slight color alteration that adds "character" to the surface. A touch of fading if you will. I have both a tube of black and a tube of white Mig oils to use if I need to change a color to lighter or darker. Maybe adding a bit of white to the faded dark yellow before applying it in the dots or adding any thinner would give you the shade you need. If you were looking for a more true yellow color, Luftwaffe Yellow is quite bright yellow. German Ochre might be of interest to you as it looks to be a yellowish-brown close to the color of the plastic on the model you have pictures of. By the way, I have 14 tubes of Mig's oils and am quite happy with all of them I have used so far.

Out of curiosity, what would you call the color?

Hello Jim,

meanwhile I have found a usage for this colour (as you can see on the pics) and once know how to use it is a good one.

"What would you call the color?"

Orange.




Once again: Do not get me wrong concerning MIG productions in general. Very good products, I have paid nearly 100 Euro (ca. 120 Dollar) for pigments and oils only and this money is well invested. But I think you all have no idea how amazed I was when I'd open this tube for the first time...)

Due to your recent posting altered I have uploaded pics of my latest model at which you can see that I am quite familiar with handling oil paints

Very nice Marco! Did you use the faded dark yellow on this?

RE: "orange" I would agree with that IF this was an artist color.

Thanks Jim,

"Did you use the faded dark yellow on this?"

If you would take a closer look at my second posting within this thread...

But if you mean fading technics like those Mig demonstrated: I am not sure, I mean that I used FDY for altering the basic colour only.

More pics will be published soon, I sent Rick pics for an On-Display feature of the following thread.