Hi Marco. Thanks for showing how you did the Zimmerit.

Great work and blog Marco i love these big brutes and you are doing a fantastic job i see Pawel is here too so you are in good company

Ron.

That's truly great work. Really enjoying watching this. Keep it up.

Hello,

thank you all for following the progress and my work.

At the moment I am at the PEs for the hull e.g. tool clamps.

The MG ball of the front glacis plate is already zimmeritised (was easier than I'd thought).

Also I finished the engine cover of the rear deck.

Most probably I manage it to upload an update of the build progress this week-end.


@Ed

Ja, indeed, there is no escape concerning the tracks.

To save some time I asked my LHS if the Friuls were a reasonable alternative.

As the guy there assembled once the Jagdtiger(P) he told me that's six of one and half a dozen of another.

The only difference would be to pay extra for something what I have already got in this kit...

Hi Marco! I just completed my first set of Fruilmodel tracks for a Russian SU 122 which are the same as T-34 tracks. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but it did take some time. I worked on them over two evenings spending about 5 hours on each side. The clean up wasn't that bad. I used a bit of wet/dry silicon carbide sand paper, 500 grit, for clean up. I folded the piece I used and used the folded edge to clean between the notches in the track pads where there was flash. I very lightly wiped the edges where the links joined. (The set had about 8 extra links which was good because I sanded almost all the way through the first one I did! Emphasis on LIGHTLY!) There were only about 20 links total that the holes for the wire were plugged, and most of them the wire popped through. I drilled maybe 10 links. I used the wire that came with the tracks although many people say they use brass rod. I didn't have any that small and didn't want to drill out the holes any bigger. After the tracks were done and the length was correct, I set them on the closed edge and used a tooth pick to put a drop of metal to meat super glue (Loctite 430) on the end where the wires were put in. I let it dry overnight and just got done cleaning them (toothbrush and a bit of Windex), As soon as they dry I will primer them black and finish them. I have to say, the way they freely sag and hand between the road wheels looks so good my face hurts from smiling so much!

I have another set of Fruilmodel tracks for another tank that are much smaller than the ones I just built. I am going to start on them tonight. After having seen them I think from now on any model that is one that is special to me will get them. At some point I want to try a Model Kasten (I think) set.

Hello Jim ,

Friuls are really worth the money.

I assembled once some for my Panther G and I have made nearly the same experiences like you.

But the final result rewards every pain you endured during assembly.

Marco,

Your zimmerit job looks awesome!!! Excellent photographs and one of the best and very much needed step by step assembly tutorials on the magic tracks that I have seen yet.

I am watching your build with much interest as I also happen to have a number of these kits in the stash and am now currently backdating one of these kits to the V1 Tiger II prototype. I am also planning a simular build to yours with one of the other kits.

Below are a few things that may or may not be of some interest to you in aiding you with your build to more accurately render any one of the five initial production s.PzKp.(Fkl) 316, Tiger II's that you have mentioned.



1) The armored port cover for the coolent heater was present on only 2 of the 5 inital production Tiger II's of Panzer Lehr (PzKp.(Fkl) 316). This armoured port cover was introduced starting in February 1944. Fgst.Nr. 280001 - 280003 produced in January and Fgst.Nr. 280004 and 280005 produced in February. These are the chassis numbers for all five of the Panzer Lehr (PzKp.(Fkl) 316) Tiger II's. (Fgst.Nr. 280004 belonging to Nr.12, Tiger II is the only one that I have read about). Should you chose to remove the armored cover for the vehicle that you are modeling be aware that it will leave a small hole that will need to be pluged before adding Zimmerit over the area. And will you be filling in the seams on the armored exhaust cover housing lifting posts?

2) These 3 parts on sprue P, item number 4 are for filling in the rear hull side extension cutouts that Pawel mentions earilier in this post. You will only need two of them.

3) The fuel vent lines on both sides of the upper rear deck were not present for the above mentioned production chassis numbers. The fuel tank and radiator compartment rectangular vent on the end of both rear upper deck plates that are welded against the rear armored plate were also not present. And no welded on lifting hooks for the armored radiator exhaust fan deck plates were present so the indentations would have to be filled.

But, like I said "only if you're interested?"

Marco, what brand of masking are you using?

-Eddy

Hello Eddy,

thanks for visiting this blog.

Nice to read that you regard some things shown here as useful.

Your support is always welcome and I really appreciate your advices offered me as options to improve the model and its level of accuracy.


a) "And will you be filling in the seams on the armored exhaust cover housing lifting posts?"

Jep, I will.


b) Does FgstNr. ...005 belong perhaps to Nr. "11"?


c) "Should you chose to remove the armored cover for the vehicle that you are modeling"

Thanks Eddy.

Either I choose one of the both vehicles with this armor plate or I have to swallow the pill and remove this plate (...and re-zimmeriting this area...).


d) "These 3 parts on sprue P, item number 4 are for filling in the rear hull side extension cutouts that Pawel mentions earilier in this post. You will only need two of them."

If you refer to the cutouts of the lower hull I plan meanwhile to leave them open to fix the tow hooks (like "11" and "02" had them).


e) "The fuel tank and radiator compartment rectangular vent on the end of both rear upper deck plates that are welded against the rear armored plate were also not present.

All right, will be filled.


f) "The fuel vent lines on both sides of the upper rear deck were not present for the above mentioned production chassis numbers. "

Really BOTH sides? Sure?

I do not doubt it really but I ask that before I cut them away...
(At least the vent line on the left hand side is specified in the instruction to be cut off).


g) "And no welded on lifting hooks for the armored radiator exhaust fan deck plates were present so the indentations would have to be filled."

Okay, on both sides, don't they?


Tjo, again many thanks for these informations Eddy.


I think there are some more inaccuracies this kit has somehow. One of the most obvious is the missing decal of the turret number of Nr. "10" for the rear plate...


"Marco, what brand of masking are you using?"

I am using Mr. Hobby "Neo" and "Kai" (latter is mainly designed for clear parts).


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"...V1 Tiger II prototype..."

Interesting Eddy. Most interesting. In this case such a project might be in good hands...

"2) These 3 parts on sprue P, item number 4 are for filling in the rear hull side extension cutouts that Pawel mentions earilier in this post. You will only need two of them."

NOW I am understanding what Pawel and you have meant all the time.

It is even stated in the instruction





what I realised then










(Seems will still be filled...)


Eddy, Pawel - thanks again.

Marco,

Glad that I could be of some help to you Marco. I really like the step by step approch you are using with your build. Thank you for posting the liquad masking products that you are using on this project. I'll have to add them to my building supplies ASAP!

Below is a photo of the rear deck of Nr. 11 showing no fuel vent lines. The fuel vent line tubes did not appeared until April 1944. The lifting hooks for the cooling air outlet plates are also not present (both sides). However the 4 large lifting hooks for the engine plate, housing the engine access hatch and armor pot for the deep wading tubes, were present. Of interest is the rounded off shape at the top edge of the armor pot, for the deep wading gear, as compared to the kit supplied nearly squared off one.



1) If you are not going to add the towing shackles to the upper hull side end extensions you will need to drill a hole through the extension the same size as the holes already provided in the kit for the lower side end extensions where you just added the parts to fill in the cutouts for the towing shackle extensions. The kit supplied upper hull rear extensions are only dimpled to accept the kit suppled towing shackles.

2) The kit instructions will have you mount the same two engine air ventilator armor covers (parts B13) on the engine hatch . This is incorrect. Mount only one of the B13 engine air ventilator armor cover parts to the forward engine hatch location and mount part D23 (shown in blue on the kit instructions as not for use) to the rear location. The forward armor cover was cast with a lower profile to help clear the turret (seen in the Photo). On the real vehicle there is a very noticable gap between the bottom of the turret and the top of the armor cover. However, almost no gap exists with the kit part but the turret is still able to traverse. You may want to add the dimples on the hatch hinges as they are not present on the kit. I used a # 78 drill for rendering these on my V1.

I only know the one Fgst. Nr. that I mentioned earlier in your log. Perhaps Herbert could be of some assistance with this matter if he is larking near by?

-Eddy

Thanks Eddy for clearing up.

Of course I had already assembled the hatch with both parts B13 before I have read your posting...



But now it is reworked.





Thanks for support

Hi Marco,excellent blog buddy its a real pleasure to watch.Keep the good stuff coming!

Deano

Great log Marco. You have the patience of a saint to do those tracks. Great zim work too.

Great blog Marco ...I'm taking notes! Hey Eddy do you have any idea which of the 5 KTs had the armored cover ? (turret numbers?)

Very interesting stuff guys

Rick

Hello,


"Most probably I manage it to upload an update of the build progress this week-end."

Unfortunately the PEs of the upper hull have made me spend more time to assemble them than I'd thought.


Thanks all for watching and attending this blog.


Deano,

thanks for the nice words and encouraging me to maintain this level of showcasing and reporting.

(And I bet you know how much time these PEs devour).


Marc,

thank you too.

"patience of a saint"

Ja, rather like a Jedi.

You have no idea how often I was thinking of Yoda sermonizing Luke to be patient during I assembled the tracks and smoke fumed out of my ears when the tracks had ripped off again (and again).


Richard,

thanks for stop by, tja, indeed, at the moment I am attending to identify to which of the vehicles Fahrgestellnummer 280005 belonged to.


My supposition is Nr. "11" ( which I do not want to build) because I am meaning to recognize this armour plate at its rear plate





Bis zum nächsten Mal.

Marco and Richard,

Unfortunity it seems that there is very little information about 1.s.PzKp.(Flk) 316.

About the photo concerning No. 11:

Initial production Tiger II ausf B No.11 of 316.Panzerkompanie (Funklenk) abandoned at Kellerman boulevard at Chateaudun (Eure-et-Loire sector) near Tilly-sur-Seules, France, on August 17, 1944 abandoned and destroyed by its crew after machanical failure. Judging from the photograph that you have posted above this vehicle could very well be Fgrst. Nr. 280005, one of two February production initial production Tiger II's assigned to 1.s.PzKp.(Flk) 316 unit.

There are a few external differances that are worthy of note concerning the 5 Tiger II's assigned to this unit.

1) Two of the vehicles had the spare antenna case welded to the front upper hull right corner, Tiger II ausf B No.11 is one of them.

2) The two February production vehicles (Fgrst. Nr. 280004 - Tiger II ausf B No.12 and 280005) now had the oval-shaped armor cover for the engine coolent heater located below the left hand exhaust armor guard (the item you are pointing out in the above posted photo).

3) Three of the 5 vehicles (02, 11 and 12) wore olive green patches (RAL 6003) over the standard dark yellow (RAL 7028) base coat.

4) The national insignia (the cross) was worn on both sides of the upper front hull (11 and 12). The national insignia was worn a little further back on both sides of the upper front hull on turret no.'s 02, 10 and 13.

All 5 vehicles were zimmerit coated. Wore large white numbers on the turrets front sides and a smaller white number on the rear turret hatch (encompassing the entire vertical lentgh of the hatch). The kit decals do not provide the rear turret hatch numbers. Were also equipt with the same tracks as those provided in the kit and with the same exhaust pipe and exhaust mount cover configuration.

Please check your referances to verify what I have stated.

-Eddy

Hello all,

"Wore large white numbers on the turrets front sides and a smaller white number on the rear turret hatch (encompassing the entire vertical lentgh of the hatch). The kit decals do not provide the rear turret hatch numbers"

That's what I have apprehended in my prior posting

"I think there are some more inaccuracies this kit has somehow. One of the most obvious is the missing decal of the turret number of Nr. "10" for the rear plate..."






Another thing seemed to be the painting instructions:

"Three of the 5 vehicles (02, 11 and 12) wore olive green patches (RAL 6003) over the standard dark yellow (RAL 7028) base coat."

So, which colour had '10' and '13'...Dunkelgelb only?

Or this three tone scheme Cyber Hobby indicated?


Naja, meanwhile I post some more pics of the build stage...

Hello,

here is the announced update for the upper hull.

At first I applied a Zimmerit coat on the MG-ball






Ja, to build means to learn.

I never noticed that these Tiger IIs got an other junction for the front lamp’s cable.








Fortunately there was already a hole prepared to drill off inside the hull





Removing the regular junction...





...and attaching the initial one






CyberHobby is well known to flood one with styrene.

For the deep fording unit they add a complete sprue of their Panther D kit








Only these three parts were needed.








As the kit provides the appropiate PEs I drilled of the plastic part to replace them later









The first things I assembled were the Schürzen




The frontal mud flaps had to be reworked too by sanding off the marked weld in the middle





The PE-parts ‘MA16’ seemed to me a little bit too long, therefore I trimed them.





This section CyberHobby wanted to have rather accurately, some more parts needed to be attached before I fixed the both regular tool clamps












With a little piece of copper wire I assembled the thimbles clamps workable...





...at least workable enough too fix the ropes at the final stage of the paint job






Some parts of those tools used without the on-molded ‘clamps’ are simply too short as they have been taken straight from DML’s Tiger I kits.

So a few more work was needed












The small holes were filled as they are only needed for late Jagdtigers










Simply permuted by CyberHobby: On this part ‘D6’ has to be glued (and vice versa)






Another feature which has been new to me: The three small hooks around the front hatches






The reworked rear deck with nearly all the changes Eddy mentioned. I tried to alter the cylinder look at the top of the deep fording unit by sanding it a little bit.






And the completed upper hull




All three hatches will be removed later to paint them seperately

good progress Marco, and very pushed detailing.

One point though about the deep fording. The DML's instruction is (in the well known Dragon's style) neglecting an important detail. Don't you have an impression that there's something missing here in the red circle:




take a good look here



In fact it's the part 23, My guess it's a part of the folding/opening mechanism. Good old buddy Dragon. We always must keep an eye on him

just a shot from the rear of my Hybrid TII



About the painting of n°10 & 13. Well, I think we'll never know. For the "10" we don't see anything at all, and picture of "13" make me think it was plain dunkelgelb... but the "12" and "11" have a similar camo scheme (just few wandering green bands) So, wouldn't it be possible that the field mechanics would make all of the 5 look the same? IMHO all vehicles in the same platoon/company were often painted the same way so... We'll never know

about the numbers on the rear of the turret. Looking at this picture below of the "02" I have an impression that there's also a number on the rear hatch... but I'm not really sure of this one



spit

great kt cant wait to see more, i hoper when i do my kt it turns out half as good

Wow awsome job on the zim and photo etch. I can sympathize about the tracks I just did dragons porsche jagdtiger and the tracks are very similar, just a little nerve wracking!

Hello,

thank you all for watching and the encouraging comments.


"Don't you have an impression that there's something missing here in the red circle:"

Nö.

Untill you told me...

Tja, DML had installed some more surprises in this kit (and the instruction) that I am not really amazed about some more.

Thank you very much Pawel, I will amend this.


Ryan,

" I just did dragons porsche jagdtiger and the tracks are very similar, just a little nerve wracking!"

poor sow - your have been one of those I had thought of whilst I was building the tracks.

If I remeber correctly then it had been you who asked once in this forum how to assemble this kind of tracks due to your new purchased Jagdtiger.

That was the reason for me to showcase its assembly that detailly.

Ha ha ! yeah that was me. I ended up just assembling each track in one continuous run let it dry for about a half hour and put them on. It went easier than I had expected. they came apart a couple times but I had expected to have little tiny links everywhere all covered in glue and fingerprints!

Indeed, the cut-off and the clean-up was the most unnerving part of the tracks.


Well, now the turret is left...

Thanks so far for watching this blog.

Marco & Pawel,

All 5 vehicles (02, 10, 11, 12 and 13) wore there own respective large white turret numbers on the rear turret hatch in the same location as in the photograph you posted above of Nr. "10". Yes, vehicles Nr. "10" and "13", two of the 5 vehicles, were left painted only in the standard dark yellow (RAL 7028) base coat. The Cyber-Hobby paint scheme instructions are inaccurate.

And as you had stated earlier in this post "I think there are some more inaccuracies this kit has somehow. One of the most obvious is the missing decal of the turret number of Nr. "10" for the rear plate..." All of the rear turret hatch numbers (02, 10, 11, 12 and 13) are missing!

Marco,

The hull looks really good! I especially like your zimmerit job because of the tight pattern and it being to scale just like on the real early production Tiger II's. Excellent job on the PE (you obviously have Yoda working on your side with that patience thing happening . . .)

Oh! I almost forgot! Check out the photo of Pawels Hybrid Tiger II, in his posting above, note the zimmerit applied to the very ends of the upper hull side extension edges. Zimmerit was not always applied to this area in later production vehicles, but was applied at the factory on all of the initial production Tiger II's.

-Eddy