Hosted by Darren Baker
1-35 bricks - how are these made ?
bigal07
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Joined: January 07, 2009
KitMaker: 887 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 05:49 PM UTC
Hello, I have tried to make several rows using square plastic rods which I then filled with plaster, the idea was to make several 1-35 bricks most of which fell apart, or simply broke when I tried to cut them into their brick sizes. I can sort of understand what I have to build first, a small frame work with straight square plastic rods, I filled this in, waited 2 days until bone dry, popped out the 4" lengths, placed these side by side and tried to cut this into bricks, most of these simply crumbled, and I lost more than I ended up with. Does anyone else have a better idea of how to make 1-35 bricks and what are the correct size they should be ? Look forward to your reply.
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 09:55 PM UTC
Hey Alec
I think the approach you are taking is a logical one, but maybe the problem is the fact that you are pouring plaster into what is are very thin lengths...
Now we need to establish what you are using the bricks for/as. If for a wall either complete or partially destroyed, then making the wall as a complete slab would work, and then scribe in the brick courses later. If for rubble, you can use a two part putty (such as milliput) which will hold its shape when carved. More expensive than plaster, but more effective if not in huge amounts. Another option is to find cork sheets up to 4-5 mm thick, which can be carved/cut easily and have a great texture to which a plaster slurry can be added for stucco etc.
Hope this helps some
Brad
I think the approach you are taking is a logical one, but maybe the problem is the fact that you are pouring plaster into what is are very thin lengths...
Now we need to establish what you are using the bricks for/as. If for a wall either complete or partially destroyed, then making the wall as a complete slab would work, and then scribe in the brick courses later. If for rubble, you can use a two part putty (such as milliput) which will hold its shape when carved. More expensive than plaster, but more effective if not in huge amounts. Another option is to find cork sheets up to 4-5 mm thick, which can be carved/cut easily and have a great texture to which a plaster slurry can be added for stucco etc.
Hope this helps some
Brad
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 10:04 PM UTC
I suspect your problem may be that you're using plaster. It's very crumbly - in blocks as small as 1/35 bricks the chances of moulding faults are high, and attempting to refine their shapes will be quite difficult. I used to use Linka, which was 1/72 plaster brickwork in blocks, and if you tried to cut them down you got nothing but dust.
Solutions? It's been an awfully long time since I've done any groundwork but here's some ideas:
* use plastic strip as the bricks rather than the mould. If you can find the right cross-section, it may be possible simply to cut lengths off it. Rough texture could be added with glue and/or pastel or plaster dust (which you've probably got a lot of now...!).
* use rubber moulds instead of plastic. One advantage of Linka was that you could simply peel away the mould - but for individual bricks, this may be too fiddly. And of course you need to make or buy the moulds.
* buy 'em ready-made. I'm sure there are suppliers out there - just can't recall any details right now - and they must have solved the production snags.
Size: it depends. Different countries have different standards and many have changed over the years. In 1/35, though, the differences will barely show. Your best bet is to measure up a local brick and scale it down - as long as it's not so thin as to look like a tile, or one of the odd concrete brick styles that came in in the 1960s, it will probably be close enough.
Solutions? It's been an awfully long time since I've done any groundwork but here's some ideas:
* use plastic strip as the bricks rather than the mould. If you can find the right cross-section, it may be possible simply to cut lengths off it. Rough texture could be added with glue and/or pastel or plaster dust (which you've probably got a lot of now...!).
* use rubber moulds instead of plastic. One advantage of Linka was that you could simply peel away the mould - but for individual bricks, this may be too fiddly. And of course you need to make or buy the moulds.
* buy 'em ready-made. I'm sure there are suppliers out there - just can't recall any details right now - and they must have solved the production snags.
Size: it depends. Different countries have different standards and many have changed over the years. In 1/35, though, the differences will barely show. Your best bet is to measure up a local brick and scale it down - as long as it's not so thin as to look like a tile, or one of the odd concrete brick styles that came in in the 1960s, it will probably be close enough.
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 10:42 PM UTC
Heres another way
Making rubble
Making rubble
soldatino
Roma, Italy
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 19 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:06 AM UTC
troubble27
New Jersey, United States
Joined: October 10, 2003
KitMaker: 783 posts
Armorama: 637 posts
Joined: October 10, 2003
KitMaker: 783 posts
Armorama: 637 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 03:18 AM UTC
You guys are gonna laugh, but I actually use Lego. If you dont have any Lego sets from when you were a kid, this wont be very helpful. Basically, I make a mold box very similar to the link above with the Lego bricks. I start with a flat sheet, build up rows on the back of the sheet 1 brick in height. Then, I go and get those little flat smooth pieces (without the Lego Dots on them), and lay them in between the rows and dividers. Then I just fill them with plaster, wait for it to harden, and disassemble my Lego mold box, and start over if I need more. The Lego cleans up pretty easily too. I just dump mine in my ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with some windex or glass cleaner, and Im god to go.
PS - the ultrasonic jewelry cleaner works fantastic on airbrushes too!
PS - the ultrasonic jewelry cleaner works fantastic on airbrushes too!