Hosted by Darren Baker
M48A3 first time weathering
Removed by original poster on 04/19/09 - 00:46:37 (GMT).
newfish
Joined: June 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,329 posts
Armorama: 2,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 05:06 AM UTC
Nice job you've done Nitro !,
One thing have you tired using pigments? Mig do a Vietnam earth or dust im not sure but try them !,
The Fenders were usually cut back because the mud would clog the running gear and the fenders would restrict the tracks and damage
Butyo can leave them on if you choose to
One thing have you tired using pigments? Mig do a Vietnam earth or dust im not sure but try them !,
The Fenders were usually cut back because the mud would clog the running gear and the fenders would restrict the tracks and damage
Butyo can leave them on if you choose to
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 05:10 AM UTC
In my humble opinion,I like the effect you achieved,I really like the spattered mud effect,it looks real good !!!
calvin_ng
Joined: June 23, 2008
KitMaker: 1,024 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 05:20 AM UTC
ill second what anthony said, i reallyreally l;ike the splattered mud, the stowage looks really good, cheers calvin ng 
Tankrider
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,208 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The Fenders were usually cut back because the mud would clog the running gear and the fenders would restrict the tracks and damage
Yo 'fish,
The fenders were only cut back after they were damaged, not before... The rear fenders keep all of the mud from clogging up the grills on the engine deck, which are essential for the air flow as the M48 & M60 series tanks use air cooled diesel engines. Teh crews made every attempt to preserve or replace the rear fenders with new ones or other substitutes (a section of metal culvert seems to be a common substitute part.) The front fenders were not as essential to keep in place or replace as they took a beating from busting jungle. BTW, I have bobbed and replacement fenders on my current build.
Nitro,
Nice weathering. Mud splashs on the turret tend to be a bit finer on the real thing. If you can, fill the motorization holes & gaps. It will make a differance in the end result. I like your work, I will be doing the same on my M48A3 soon.
John
nitrocomplex
Joined: December 06, 2007
KitMaker: 349 posts
Armorama: 202 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:38 AM UTC
Thanks guys, I am trying to try new things instead of being stuck as a 10 foot shelf builder. This one this needs some rework because there are still some parts missing after the move the rear needs those two inner fender pieces that go between the fenders and engine grills they fell off i will glue them on and mud them up to blend them in to what has already been done. The holes i guess i will do a fast putty job and mud wash it to hide it.
John with the splashes on the upper portion i was thinking that this tank could be off to the side as others (maybe lighter wheeled vehicles?) passed it by and sprayed it with muddy water and bits of mud thus the larger splash marks....sounds good to me..
John with the splashes on the upper portion i was thinking that this tank could be off to the side as others (maybe lighter wheeled vehicles?) passed it by and sprayed it with muddy water and bits of mud thus the larger splash marks....sounds good to me..
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:41 AM UTC
Weathering looks good. In the future you might want to give Mig Pigments a try. I dont think the snorkel would be accurate for an M48 fighting in Hue...
newfish
Joined: June 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,329 posts
Armorama: 2,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:41 AM UTC
[quote][quote]
The Fenders were usually cut back because the mud would clog the running gear and the fenders would restrict the tracks and damage
Thanks for guiding my comment John
The Fenders were usually cut back because the mud would clog the running gear and the fenders would restrict the tracks and damage
Quoted Text
Yo 'fish,
The fenders were only cut back after they were damaged, not before... The rear fenders keep all of the mud from clogging up the grills on the engine deck, which are essential for the air flow as the M48 & M60 series tanks use air cooled diesel engines. Teh crews made every attempt to preserve or replace the rear fenders with new ones or other substitutes (a section of metal culvert seems to be a common substitute part.) The front fenders were not as essential to keep in place or replace as they took a beating from busting jungle. BTW, I have bobbed and replacement fenders on my current build.
Nitro,
Nice weathering. Mud splashs on the turret tend to be a bit finer on the real thing. If you can, fill the motorization holes & gaps. It will make a differance in the end result. I like your work, I will be doing the same on my M48A3 soon.
John
Thanks for guiding my comment John
dazzer
Joined: October 28, 2007
KitMaker: 136 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:46 AM UTC
Hey Walt
Nice one there,looks real good to me.Glad to see your putting your laptop to use in the ice station lol.I like the way you got the sliver effect in the light what did you use ( I used kitchen foil on mine) also what did you use for the 'bulb' got mine wrong as the instruction say use black so I got a black bulb.I did post some pics a while back now so here is just one for you to look at I used mig pigments on mine .
Once again thanks Walt (cant thank you enough for your help on the stryker)
Keep your self warm
Darren
Nice one there,looks real good to me.Glad to see your putting your laptop to use in the ice station lol.I like the way you got the sliver effect in the light what did you use ( I used kitchen foil on mine) also what did you use for the 'bulb' got mine wrong as the instruction say use black so I got a black bulb.I did post some pics a while back now so here is just one for you to look at I used mig pigments on mine .
Once again thanks Walt (cant thank you enough for your help on the stryker)
Keep your self warm
Darren
Tankrider
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,208 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 09:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
John with the splashes on the upper portion i was thinking that this tank could be off to the side as others (maybe lighter wheeled vehicles?) passed it by and sprayed it with muddy water and bits of mud thus the larger splash marks....sounds good to me..
Walt,
If it works for you, then it works for me... It is all about learning and finding what works for you.
Again, nice job in tying it all together
JC
nitrocomplex
Joined: December 06, 2007
KitMaker: 349 posts
Armorama: 202 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 09:44 AM UTC
Mig pigments i will remember those i was a bit wary of them they seemed a bit more higher end and i kept reading how easy tamiya sets are so i went for those to get my feet wet. This tank will be getting some riders i have two sets of dml battle of hue and kha san figure sets to use but i will need to mate them up with a set of WW2 tank riders i have to get the right look in them riding the tank.
Darren i used bare metal foil i had it left over from when i used to build model cars. i guess you had a different kit i didn't get no shark face with mine. it would have covered up the front seem pretty good.
Darren i used bare metal foil i had it left over from when i used to build model cars. i guess you had a different kit i didn't get no shark face with mine. it would have covered up the front seem pretty good.
newfish
Joined: June 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,329 posts
Armorama: 2,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 09:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Mig pigments i will remember those i was a bit wary of them they seemed a bit more higher end and i kept reading how easy tamiya sets are so i went for those to get my feet wet. This tank will be getting some riders i have two sets of dml battle of hue and kha san figure sets to use but i will need to mate them up with a set of WW2 tank riders i have to get the right look in them riding the tank.
Darren i used bare metal foil i had it left over from when i used to build model cars. i guess you had a different kit i didn't get no shark face with mine. it would have covered up the front seem pretty good.
Nice Walt I look foward to seeing your Tankers added
ARENGCA
Joined: February 13, 2002
KitMaker: 382 posts
Armorama: 267 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 06:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
John with the splashes on the upper portion i was thinking that this tank could be off to the side as others (maybe lighter wheeled vehicles?) passed it by and sprayed it with muddy water and bits of mud thus the larger splash marks....sounds good to me..
Tanks don't need any help to get dirty. It is entirely plausible that mud would get splashed on the turret, especially if the tank had done a high-speed run. I once got slapped in the back of my helmet by a chunk of mud the size of my fist, going flat out in an M60A1 (we'll leave just how fast that was to history!). Another guy in my platoon caught a stone as big as a peach pit in the back once. I think what John was getting at is (putting aside the occasional experience as described above) the mud that gets on the upper parts of the vehicle are usually smaller droplets or a fine mist.
I wouldn't change it, just keep what we're saying here in mind for next time!
BTW, the square gizmo in front of the cupola was to keep the cupola machine gun from shooting the searchlight. I'm pretty sure that the crew would lay it down with the gun mounted as you have it. Those things are a pain when moving around the turret, and always seem to catch a toe or ankle when you go near them.
C
ARENGCA
Joined: February 13, 2002
KitMaker: 382 posts
Armorama: 267 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2009 - 06:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I like the way you got the sliver effect in the light what did you use ( I used kitchen foil on mine) also what did you use for the 'bulb' got mine wrong as the instruction say use black so I got a black bulb.
The bulb faced backward in these searchlights, so the side you would see was black.
C
nitrocomplex
Joined: December 06, 2007
KitMaker: 349 posts
Armorama: 202 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 06:46 AM UTC
I will fix the bulb and get it black thankfully i didn't really glue the front plate on to bad. I also will need to wash the box in the rear stowage bin that was pointed out as needing it to make it fit in better because it looks to clean.
@Chuck are you talking about that L shaped antenna thing? that can be laid down because it is not needed because of the gun set up i have?
@Chuck are you talking about that L shaped antenna thing? that can be laid down because it is not needed because of the gun set up i have?
AJLaFleche
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 08:13 AM UTC
Looks pretty good. Nice decal work, good overall construction and paint.
Couple suggestions...be careful of the seam at the front of the hull. It should be smooth.
One of the boxes on the bustle rack is unpainted plastic and it really sticlks out.
You might want to connect the front of the mantlet cover to teh turret with tissue soaked with white glue (1:1 ratio) and painted to match ther rest of the tank.
Couple suggestions...be careful of the seam at the front of the hull. It should be smooth.
One of the boxes on the bustle rack is unpainted plastic and it really sticlks out.
You might want to connect the front of the mantlet cover to teh turret with tissue soaked with white glue (1:1 ratio) and painted to match ther rest of the tank.
motorbreath23
Joined: December 29, 2008
KitMaker: 159 posts
Armorama: 138 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 08:32 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Mig pigments i will remember those i was a bit wary of them they seemed a bit more higher end and i kept reading how easy tamiya sets are so i went for those to get my feet wet.
If you want to mess around with powders, try using crushed up chalk pastels. You can get decent "earth" sets of 8 or 12 colors for less than 10 bucks at a craft store or hobby shop. The pastels seem to dry a bit light, so you may have to experiment a bit to achieve the desired look, but they are very effective and can be easily removed if you are unhappy with the result.
What I do is slice off a bit of the pastel onto a ceramic coaster and use something hard and smooth like a glass rod to crush the pastel into its natural fine consistency. After that you can put it straight on the model for dust (it sticks and stays, even to a future finish, but more so to a dull or flat finish) or mix it with water for a chunky application or alkyd thinner for a smooth/even application.
Tankrider
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,208 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 08:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
@Chuck are you talking about that L shaped antenna thing? that can be laid down because it is not needed because of the gun set up i have?
Walt,
What you are calling the "L Shaped Antenna" is actually a guard to keep the tank commander from shooting the searchlight with his .50 caliber MG. The M60 series tank had a similar type of guard that folded down. I don't belive that the guard on the M48 couldbe folded down but will check my pics tonight to make sure...
John
nitrocomplex
Joined: December 06, 2007
KitMaker: 349 posts
Armorama: 202 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 - 09:33 AM UTC
@Al LaFleche it's not bare plastic just a really pale tan for a bare wood look but now it sticks out really bad i will fix that soon along with the mantlet wrap.
@John Charvat Thanks for the info i will just leave it up don't need any repairs or mods right now.
@Chris Sanders Thanks for the advice on pigments and chalks.
Now the whole back of the bulb should be black right?
@John Charvat Thanks for the info i will just leave it up don't need any repairs or mods right now.
@Chris Sanders Thanks for the advice on pigments and chalks.
Now the whole back of the bulb should be black right?
ARENGCA
Joined: February 13, 2002
KitMaker: 382 posts
Armorama: 267 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 12:31 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Now the whole back of the bulb should be black right?
I believe so. What you see is actually the back of the bulb holder. In reality it had clips and bolts and small details that weren't black, but for the bulb in the kit black is the best choice.
CS
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