tried a search - but nothing came up (might be spelling it wrong )
have a bag of sculptamold sitting at home, and it is FINALLY time for me to start on a diorama.
I have all sorts of assorted diorama materials, a looseleaf full of diorama articles , but have not yet even begun a diorama..... Any others out there in the same boat?
Anyway- sculptamold, whats the best way to color and texture it? Adding foliage, grass etc, should I apply when the sculptamold is still wet, or wait til it dries, and drill small holes to apply to the scupltamold ?
thanks
Peter
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Sculptamold
sphyrna
New York, United States
Joined: September 24, 2002
KitMaker: 379 posts
Armorama: 150 posts
Joined: September 24, 2002
KitMaker: 379 posts
Armorama: 150 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2003 - 03:19 AM UTC
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
Armorama: 7,138 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2003 - 03:56 AM UTC
Oh - I have so many ideas and so much stuff the dioramas will never dry up!
scluptamold is just a version of paper mache (pm). When I use pm I usually mix in white glue in with the water to stiffen and prevent warping and to give it more 'stick'. I have always painted after the fact. I have read a number of threads where people have added paint in the mixing process and it makes sence.
Texturing - well it has its own texture and each dio will need a bit of different texture. I have used it striaght up and added no extra texture. If I want additional texture I will actually add a coat of spackle (wall putty from a DIY store). And texture that, it's easier to work with.
I let the base material dry totally before adding anything like trees, shrubs etc to it. That's just me...
As far as adding trees - I drill a hole in it and insert the tree. This give a true appearance like the tree is coming out of the ground. Plan ahead for trees. If a tree is tall it may be top heavy. The pm won't have a lot of long term strength to hold up the tree by itself. You may want to consider drilling a hole in the bottom of the tree and inserting a straighten length of paper clip, leave .25" or .5" of it sticking out. Then drill a matchinghole in the base material (after the big receiving hole has been drilled for the tree trunk). Add a bit of white glue and insert the clip into the little hole down low enough so the trunk is below the pm gound line.
I use static grass and apply it to a bed or white glue/water mix that I brush ontop of the pm (after it dries). For clumps I do drill little holes. I have heard of guys putting tall grass into wet paint and letting it dry together.
If I have created more questions than answered - just ask away.
scluptamold is just a version of paper mache (pm). When I use pm I usually mix in white glue in with the water to stiffen and prevent warping and to give it more 'stick'. I have always painted after the fact. I have read a number of threads where people have added paint in the mixing process and it makes sence.
Texturing - well it has its own texture and each dio will need a bit of different texture. I have used it striaght up and added no extra texture. If I want additional texture I will actually add a coat of spackle (wall putty from a DIY store). And texture that, it's easier to work with.
I let the base material dry totally before adding anything like trees, shrubs etc to it. That's just me...
As far as adding trees - I drill a hole in it and insert the tree. This give a true appearance like the tree is coming out of the ground. Plan ahead for trees. If a tree is tall it may be top heavy. The pm won't have a lot of long term strength to hold up the tree by itself. You may want to consider drilling a hole in the bottom of the tree and inserting a straighten length of paper clip, leave .25" or .5" of it sticking out. Then drill a matchinghole in the base material (after the big receiving hole has been drilled for the tree trunk). Add a bit of white glue and insert the clip into the little hole down low enough so the trunk is below the pm gound line.
I use static grass and apply it to a bed or white glue/water mix that I brush ontop of the pm (after it dries). For clumps I do drill little holes. I have heard of guys putting tall grass into wet paint and letting it dry together.
If I have created more questions than answered - just ask away.
kkeefe
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: May 12, 2002
KitMaker: 1,416 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, June 13, 2003 - 03:41 PM UTC
I swear by the Sculptamold.
I agree with what Scott says with one exception.... When I add stones etc, I'll press the objects into the damp, not wet groundwork to make an inprint. If the white glue to water ratio is good enough to hold these objects, I'll leave them in there. If not, I'll remove and glue them in later. I also add inprinted footprints. At final 'assembly', most objects will get pegged in for durablilty and strength. I will drill holes for bush stems etc.
Paint when all is dry.
I agree with what Scott says with one exception.... When I add stones etc, I'll press the objects into the damp, not wet groundwork to make an inprint. If the white glue to water ratio is good enough to hold these objects, I'll leave them in there. If not, I'll remove and glue them in later. I also add inprinted footprints. At final 'assembly', most objects will get pegged in for durablilty and strength. I will drill holes for bush stems etc.
Paint when all is dry.