This is the Hard Corps Models kit I purchased a while ago and never had the opportunity to work on. When ever I am working on a diorama or in a campaign I always have a side project that I can work on so I can stop at an important point of the project, as not to screw it up when something has to dry or set. When I reach that point I have this side project I can work on. I finally decided to start this as my side project.
Here are all the kits I’m using;


The kit comes with a cd of instructions and photos for the assembly and includes the needed conversion parts to change an Italeri 6389 M4A3 Sherman into COED a Flame Tank serving with the 4th TB on Iwo Jima.



I also will be using CMK’s M4 Interior and driver’s set along with Hard Corps Models hatch cages and Harper castings USMC tank crew


And of course since I do not use a spray gun at all and since I do have a Bison Decals laying around I decided to change it to Comet #38 also of the 4th TB.


I had the chance to start some of the interior when I had to wait for my sand to dry and I'll take photos of that tonight. I also have to cut Hessian tape using lead sheet, which really does a number on my fingers. So many things to do and never enough time…

Thanks for looking,
Bob

That certainly looks like an involved project, look forward to seeing it done.

John

I will also be watching with great interest.

Thanks John and Russ.




That is a pretty large question. The basic function was added protection. It wasn’t used everywhere in the Pacific, and I remember seeing some logs strapped to a side of a Sherman in Europe.

I can’t really speak about why the Shermans in Europe didn’t use this more then they did, not my area of expertise.

Concerning the USMC use of side armor I can simply state that getting a Marine and a Sailor together to figure out what might help in protection is amazing in what they came up with. The planks were two-inch thick oak, used for hatch covers and dunnage on Navy cargo ships. Cargo matting, boiler plating and even corrugated sheets were used. With additional use of concrete, plywood and even sand. Seabees, Marines and sailors had access to numerous materials to play with and the equipment to put it to use.

If I had to venture a guess I would say that Marines and sailors vs. US Army are whole different species. Working completely different then each other. A lot of spur of the moment changes were made in the PTO depending on the circumstances they encountered.

I would imagine someone else might be able to explain it better then I ever could.

Good question and thanks for asking,
Bob

One of the main reasons behind the wooden armor was to protect against jap magnetic anti-tank charges...the jap infantry would run up to the tank with the mine on a large stick and place it on the side of the tank. It really wasnt good for much else, as 47mm AT rounds could go through it (as pictures of wreaked tanks on Iwo show)

The cages and nails found on the top of hatches was a form of spaced protection against stachel charges that would be tossed up on the tank by jap infantry...sticky bombs of sorts, The blast from the charge would be expended out in the space and not directly into the hatch.

Im really looking forward to watching this one bob...i have a Iwo sherman in my "list" of projects as well...gota finish the D-day dozer first!
Andy

Thanks Andy, and thanks for helping with the answer to that question.
I have been following along and your doing an amazing job on her.
Bob

Well have a lot of work to do yet, but you'll be an excellent model. Good Luck!

hi bob, WOW...very nice project. i'm a big fan of sherman tank...specially the ones served in the pacific theater. i'll visit your post once in awhile. might pick up some tips on this one. thanks for sharing. ed

Thanks Felix and Ed.

As promised here are the first sections of the interior constructed, still need to be painted.
One thing I have noticed I like this kit better then some of the Verlinden ones which are like a separate kit you just drop into the model. This one is separate parts that need to be placed in on their own to construct the interior. Which makes this a bit easier to install into any hull. On this one I had to place in some plastic stock to raise the floor level up but the clearance in the sponsons are a perfect fit.
Kit instructions

Step One;

Step Two;

Step Three;

Step Four;

Step Five;

Step Six;

Step Seven;

Step Eight;

And now I’m glad I did this because I noticed I missed something.
Step Nine, Ten and Eleven;



And then I had to go back to my original project which I am still working on.
Thanks for looking,
Bob

so the "drivers set" actully comes with everything in the lower hull? I wondered why it was so pricey...parts look great though! Love those little valve knobs on the engine bulkhead.

I have an extra "guts" to a academy M10 and thought of using that inside a sherman as a start on some interior

lookin good!
Andy

I have to agree, all the cost and work and once closed up how much will you be able to see?
For me I just had to try it. The next one will probable be with all the hoses and wiring but with a detachable top so you can see all that work.
Thanks again Andy,
Bob