I use the following setup
Badger 175 A/B with fine needle
Air pressure set to 17~20 psi
tamiya matt paint thinned 50:50 or 60:40 (eyeballed) paint to thinner with iso alcohol
does the finish is supuse to be smooth? i allways seem to get some kind of
"600 grit sandpaper" finish, well maybe no exactly but the painr certinly has a "texture"
what am i doing wrong?

Thanks for the advice
Eran

Hi Eran

That sounds like a problem I get sometimes. What's happening is that the paint is drying before it reaches the model. It builds up a "sand-paper" texture - particularly in corners and wing-roots etc. It seems the answer is to make sure the paint is really well thinned, and spray from close range at low pressure. You may need a regulator to manage that - I'm going to invest in one.

"Orange-peel" is different. The paint dries pretty smooth to the touch, but has a distinctive, crinkled look just like... you've guessed it!

Both these problems can be overcome by gently rubbing down the offending area with 0000 wire-wool, Micromesh polishing cloths, or some really worn out Scotchbrite scourer.

All the best

Rowan

Hi there Ekaufman..

isn't that badger 175 cresendo a sweet airbrush.. I have one and love it.. I only use the fine needle also. although I mostly spray enamals and not acrylics.

i do most of my spraying around 20 to 22 psi. If you get that sandpaper texture then it is because your paint is drying in the air before it hits the model cause a grit like finish.

This happens to me if it gets too hot and I try to spray outside... I solved the problem by figureing out how to build myself a small paint booth so my wife allows me to spray inside if it gets too hot out.

here is one thing you can try.. I read that your thinning with Iso alcohol.. This is what I use to clean my airbrush after I use it so it prob thins the paint fairly well and is cheap. but I think I remember reading that the Tamiya thinner has a wetting agent in it that would help prevent this. =( if i have this wrong i'm sure someone will correct me) If that is so then it might help to thin your paint with the tamiya brand thinner and see what happens.


Good luck.

Thank's
i will try to get the tamiya thinner, or maybe i can try water.
anyway about the heat, i live in israel so it's quit hot even if i paint indoors- i try to keeo it at 25c with the A/C

Sometimes I get the same problem, specially when the paint jars are there since a long time. If you want to stick to iso alchool, you can solve the problem in two ways. The cheapest is to add a drop of liquid dish soap to your paint (the colorless one) or add some acrylic retarder you can purchase at arts craft stores. These prevent the paint to dry during the "trip" from the airbrush to the model and you get the same finish as using the Tamiya's thinner that in my view is crazily expensive.
Ciao

I have had the same problem.....and have tried numerous things...and the best I found is to cut your Iso alcohol 50% with water....and then thin your paint as you normally would....the water gives your paint a little more drying time and won't dry until after it its the model.

I have tried all water.....but the surface tension keeps the water from mixing with the paint properly......you can add a drop of dish detergent.....but I usually add too much and end up with bubbles.

I have heard that many people use ordinary wind sheild washer fluid, stuff you use in your cars....either the summer green or the winter blue stuff....apparently thin your acrylics as per normal and it works great......best part is you can usually get it on sale for 99cents a gallon at Wally World or the like!! Buy a case and it would last you a lifetime

I have a Crescendo also. Try using the medium tip and needle for acrylics. Also, try adding a wetting agent, or "retarder" to your mix. The guys are right, it isn't fish peel, it is premature drying.

You can get acrylic retarder at hobby and craft stores. A bottle is $3 or $4 bucks.

Hope this helps.

Scott