Hi all,

During the 6 months or so that I have been working on this diorama, the base has been getting increasingly warped, presumably because of the amount of CA, white glue, and paint put on one side of it. Is there a way to reverse/fix this?

Here are some pics:





It's actually worse than it seems in the pictures, and its starting to cause problems with the way my tank and building sit on it.

Thanks,
sweaver

Sam,

An old trick that I've used a few times....this may or may not work, and will probably result in a little "fix it" work but here's a suggestion: turn the base over so that the "good/show" side is DOWN; take a misting bottle....a water bottle that'll spray a fine mist.....and coat (not soak) the wood bottom with water. If the "lift" of the corners are 1/8th of an inch, you'll need something (like a 3/16th or 1/4th inch) in diameter (a dowel works great). Lay the dowel down and clamp the "lifted" corners down so that it pulls the lifted corners down to the table. Give it about 2 hours after the first wetting and spray the bottom again. Once that has been done, release the clamps and see how it "sits." If it's still curled, repeat but go to a smaller diameter.

Eventually, it'll "settle" in the right form.

Now, WHY did this happen?? Wood, being solid, particle, or what not, when wet, will warp (unless "primed"). Not knowing exactly what you did to prep the surface, I can surmise that you glued the roadway and sidewalk directly to the wood? What glue did you use? Elmer's white? CA? Did you spray the surface with anything prior to attaching the brickwork?

Anywhoooo....food for thought.

Mike

I've heard of people using circular felt pads (that you put on stuff so it doesn't scratch shelves) to level out the bottom. I can't say that this method would look the best, so if the method Mike suggested doesn't work, then maybe this is worth a try?

Kinda like these

Scott

Thanks for your help, Mike and Scott. I appreciate it.

The base was stained and given two or tree spray coats of clear gloss, but only on the top and sides. I am assuming that since I didn't seal the bottom, it continued to absorb moisture and expand, while the top did not, making it warp the way it did. If this is the case, then I need a way to remove the moisture from the one side.

Mike: Yes, I glued the roadway and sidewalk directly to the stained and glossed wood using CA and white glue. As far as your method goes, I'll probably try that. If my surmise is correct, though, wouldn't that make the problem worse? I'm no expert with wood, so I'm not sure.

Scott: Thanks for that tip. I've got a bunch of those, so If all else fails, that's what I'll do. Thanks.

sweaver

Sam,

When it's turned upside down, you'll have probably two corners that touch the table/bench and two that don't. You'll want to put the dowel under the two corners that touch the table/bench and clamp the two that don't. This will "over compensate" for the warp; bend it against the warp and at a distance greater than the warp's lift. Once it dries and it's released from the clamps, theoretically it will lay flat once turned right side up. It usually takes a couple of "tries" to get it (close to) right.

Oh, this method will work for large resin parts too....except heat is used in lieu of water.

Felt feet, as mentioned by Scott should, IMO, always be used on a base...99% for looks. In the case of a warped base, they'll aid in keeping the base from rocking, but as long as the wood's warped you'll not have a "straight edge" and that will always be seen.

I would consider giving my method a try. If it works, great. If not...sorry. I'd then spray the bottom with a couple of light coats of your clear. Light coats (stains, primers, sealers, gloss, matt...all the same) are always better than heavy coats....just like paint on a model.

Hope that clarifys....

Mike

p.s. I really like your roadway/sidewalk....very nice.