hello ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, today i shall take on a challallenge, to build a stryker!
the kit,

trumpeters m1127 recon, packed with plenty of goodies! boxes, pe, men, 2 sprues of stowage,
the reference-what better than pictures
Walkaround
i have recently got hold of some plus models lead wire0.2 mm and 0.5 mm, so adding wires will be a breeze. for the anti slip, i was thinking of using a veryt thin coat of white glue and sprinklling baking powder on top , any input on that would be ace
the build so far!....
steps 1-4 done( i think) still some sanding of sprue att points to be finished, and a hole to fill, but all easy stuff.

Don't use baking powder or soda. Over time, growths will appear on the model right through the paint. I just had a discussion yesterday at MasterCon with some of the country more prominent modelers. Use something inert, and good luck with it.

I think I remember hardware stores selling containers of carborundum grit. It looked like wet or dry sandpaper without the paper (that was good wasn't it). You could tape off the area for the non slip, put some adhesive down, and then add the grit on the top. I could be imagining this entirely; I just repeat what the voices in my head tell me.

Matt

After note: I found a source for you:http://www.takachpress.com/access/abrasive.htm
They sell the 220 grit in 1 lb. quantities for about $3.00, so you don't have to buy in in large quantities. Printmakers (artist: lithographers) use it for setting up the stones to draw and print from. If you have a college with a printmaking section in the art department, maybe you could get a little bit from them; or artist's supply stores in your area. Take a look at the website, and see if you think it's suitable. It would be the same surface as 220 grit wet or dry paper.

Anti slip coating, the easy way.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/50656&page=1#424251

thanks guys, im indecisive as about what to use yet,
Rob thaanks for the heads up about the baking powder
matt that stuff is cheap, i wonder if they will ship it internationally.
William, i remeber reading that thread, i ahve found a stocklist in the uk, but am unsure wether it is the right stuff, and i cant find terracotta and it ranges from£11 to £26, which is a lot more than 3 usd lol!
i will keep researching for the minute as im a long way off that stage:D
thanls for the input guys!

cheers for my first proper modern build eh

Good to see you tackle a modern subject James, you know it makes sense

One solution for the anti slip, is mr surfacer 500, a bottle is pretty cheap and can be sprayed through a spray gun. Just mask the areas you dont want to cover with tape and blu tac.

Nice start James, Was looking at this kit today.

I am a professional fine art lithographer by trade and I use carborundum all the time. Matt is correct it is cheep but by the time you buy it and ship it from New Mexico it won't be so cheep. If you have any fine art lithography studios in your area they will be able to tell you where to get a hand full of 220 RA carborundum and that will do you for many models. If they don't have any they can spare you might try any fine art supplier, they should know where to look.
I'll keep an eye on this threat to see how you make out.
Bill
http://www.takachpress.com/access/abrasive.htm

Hey Rob, Modern?! What the heck!, i thought this was from star trek! hehe! no i knew i needed a change of scenery, and with actual full colour reference upics it makes things a lot easier!
Hey martyn, it was real cheap and its fantastic buy it!!
i got mine for £22 with 15% off! for this, a fantastic price
Hey William, i will pop down my local art shop tomorrow and have a poke about and a little interrogation!

some more progress, im adding items and details from some of the reference pics on that i was particularly interested in was a small paslock and chain, padlock was scratched from wood and lead wire , and the chain was spare dml

and the other filler cap


wheels are on dry fit, some vehicles didnt have the steel rim thing on all of the wheels so i have done a random amount,


some gaps to fill


missed this part yesterday


the pe suspention covers were unclear, but after looking at some pictures i decided to add the solid cover and the PE mesh, and i cut if all the tabs for a more accurate fit

another finger lickin' good update!
added some small hooks and straps that were missing from the kit previously
plastic buckle made out of wood, the pe need a little filler around the eges too
complete secured strap


one of the hooks, tiny tiny stuff here


strap with built in hook


oo eck thats small


lead wire is all folded and ready


threading it through


all it needs now is a little adjustment

Nice work James, really nice work.

thanks Martyn, for noe im just adding little wires here and there

James, nice to see another Stryker getting built up. Not sure you are going after a super accurate build or not, but if you are, then keep in mind since you are using more wheel step rings than just the one near the driver, you would then be depicting earlier Strykers - say up until about 2006. After that, new Strykers only had the step ring on the left front wheel. This might affect your markings for your RV.

Your solution w/ the PE strut guard covers works out fine, but in real life there is no solid strut guard underneath the perforated one. But when you paint and shadow/weather the model you should be good-to-go as you should not be able to see the solid plate underneath.

Question: What are your plans for that strap you show underneath the fuel/water can? Typically, the crew straps the cans by running the strap up to the roof - from the base of the water can frame - where there are 'footman loops' - the kit does not have these.

Very nice start. Looking forward to more.

Bob

Hi Bob, im not going for a mega detail as i cant handle that
im just improving what i see fit with my minimal amount of tools and bits,
on the walkarounds i am using, i ahve seen the strap under the oilcans tied to the tow hook, here,

i was thinking of hanging it loose, i have shortened it , and added a small metal tab at the end, as commonly seen on straps, and i tool the rhs strap underneath the water cans from this pic , here where i also took the padlock, for painintg i was probably going for germany at some point, but i dont know if it corresponds with the decals included

little more work done, i used the plastic tall hookey thing with holes in as the PE part was very bland and one dimentional, i added small wires to it aswell, i thinned the tho of the hook to gove it a more scale appearance, the etch grill covers were sanded after being attatched, thinning them marginally so the eges werent as prominent, i replaces the small cable guide with a peice of squashed lead wire, its thinner, and goes from top to bottom,
i have left some smoke dischargers off for variation, ( im not sure if they did take them off irl unless damaged, ?) how were the dischargers fired, one set at a time, or in sections,? front back left right e.t.c?. i have added some woring to the smokers too( its not complete.)
oh, and the rear lights are on, and ready to be masked

the tab i put on the strap



(what does the end of the cable that uses these pulleys look like?)

oh i added a grrille here as seen on the real thing


you can see the cable and plug untidily hanging out of the ring

a topsy turvy pic of a wire i added


i also added a shaft of lead wire all the way through as the plasitc was missing this detail

comments and crit welcome!

after a luckles trawl throught the few art and hardware shops we have!
here

hello. i have added some more small hooks, two on the roof, and two on the rear plate near the oil and watercans, one on the front for securing that strange hookey thing,
i have asses 3 more straps, 2 to affix the jerrycans to the roof, and one on the front for securing the hookey thing, the drivers door is nearly done, just need ssoem touching up and maybe a little more detail if i find anything ti add






the straps are a mix of artisitic liscence and hopefully correct positioning.

Looks good Jim, actually looks pretty profesional! I haven't seen much modern from you before, if any.
There's a lot of P.E on this, then again thats just me, but i'd find it very hard, and the mini padlock is great I like the shape of this kit too.
I look forward to more of this kit

thanks willow, professianoal, lol!!
currently im removing the little grab handles foe webbing, and replacing them, its not as in shape, but when the webbing is on it wont be seen that much

hey you quiet bunch!
question pending. how does the smoke discharegers fire, 2 tubes at a time? or sections at a time ( front, left, back e.t.c) as i wanted to show some empty.
well the tielops i have been doing are a little wobbly and inconsisten in scale, but its small, and i can thread the staps through it now, so when all the webbings down it shouldnt matter so much,







i can soryt of compare all this to the rigging of a ship. satisfying, but tricky

Nice work James, good detailing.

James
You are fortunate to have Lawrence Art shops near by. When I visited the UK I made it a point to visit a few, as well I visited Cornelissen and Son, first rate art shops. If you buy that much carborundum you'll be set for many anti slip coatings.
Good for you for checking local resources.
Bill

thanks guys! im enjoying this buils thoroughly!
william the powder is on tha way

Looking good James.

Nice sorting of what to add.

Paint would of been an easier way for the Anti slip.

But to each his own.

Question is why did you choose Trumpeter instead of AFV Club?

Good build either way.