_GOTOBOTTOM
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
painting plastic figs vs metal figs
discordian
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:16 AM UTC
A number years ago I was very much into painting Dungeons and Dragons type "lead" miniatures (and I particularly liked Thunderbolt Mountain vignettes)
Here's a couple:

(a character I played in a D&D campaign so he's a bit banged up from use and storage)



Now I'm back to scale modeling and have a kit with 4 plastic figs... can I expect anything different or is the technique really the same?

My main concern right now is priming... what's the finest primer?

thanks!
alanmac
Visit this Community
United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:40 AM UTC
Hi Scott

What paint do you intend using to paint your figures with? Priming is a good idea anyway but it depends on the type of paint you are working with.

I use Vallejo acrylic mainly and prime with Games Workshop's Chaos Black paint, applied out of a spray can. Because GW have plastic and metal figures within their range this is ideal primer as you know it works on both types, and of course resin figures if you decide to buy and paint any of those.

You could use a cheap primer from a car accessory shop but I prefer the GW because it's designed with figures in mind, so doesn't obliterate fine detail under a thick consistency of paint. That said it is of course dependant on the skill of the person applying it .

Other to consider in spray cans are Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and Vallejo's own primer. GW is available in black (Chaos Black) or white (Skull White) Tamiya in white and grey whilst if my memory serves me correct Vallejo do white and black.

I found priming not only good for ensuring good paint adhesion but also for spotting any defects such as missed mould lines remaining, gaps that need filling etc.

Hope it's of help.

Alan

Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:53 AM UTC
Hi Scott,

I agree with what Alan's said above. I'm a believer in priming regardless of the paint medium though. I'm personally not a fan of automotive primer as I find it too course. I prefer to use Tamiya's Extra Fine Primer in either light grey or white. Alternatively I also use Tamiya's flat black in the rattle can. I've not used GW's (Citadel?) primers as, although I am led to believe they're excellent, I've found the price somewhat ridiculous.

In terms of general techniques in painting plastic vs. metal vs. resin, there's no real difference. The difference in the quality of the casts and the level of detail? Now that is where the difference lies - as you'll see

Rudi
discordian
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 01:26 AM UTC
I certainly will be priming... But darned if I remember the brand I used to use for the metal figs. I used to get it at a gaming store that had a huge selection of paints and figs (D&D, Warhammer, etc) but is no longer in business as far as I know (if anyone in NJ is reading this they were at the old Bergen Mall on Rt 4 in Paramus).

I was leaning towards the Tamiya extra fine so I think I'll go that way. Do you decant and airbrish or spray from the can?

I definately like to work with acrylics for figs. The above were mostly Citadel paints and inks. Maybe some Pollyscale.
But for these first few I already have MM Acryl in the appropriate colors so I'll try that and see how it goes.
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 01:35 AM UTC
Hi Scott,

I use the Tamiya primer directly from the rattle can. I reckon it's fine enough, and also I couldn't be bothered with the effort of decanting, loading up the airbrush, and then cleaning up when it's already in a sprayable form

I use Vallejo Model Colour and Citadel/GW acrylics and inks. I've got a couple of their (GW) newer range like the base coat colours but haven't gotten around to using them. Here's a GW 40K Witch Hunter Sister of Battle I finished about 2 years ago now using AV MC and GW paints and inks.



Rudi
alanmac
Visit this Community
United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 02:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Scott,
I've not used GW's (Citadel?) primers as, although I am led to believe they're excellent, I've found the price somewhat ridiculous.Rudi


Hi Rudi

This is dependant on your local buying conditions of course but, a quick check on t'internet showed Tamiya Fine Surface Primer at £6.99p + delivery, whilst GW Chaos Black is £7.85p + delivery, so indeed the Chaos Black is more expensive....per spray can.

Checking on quantity though shows Tamiya contains 180ml whilst Chaos Black or indeed Skull White is 400ml. Slighty over twice as much for an additional 86p

Alan
cpmstu
Visit this Community
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 25, 2009
KitMaker: 30 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 03:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

In terms of general techniques in painting plastic vs. metal vs. resin, there's no real difference. The difference in the quality of the casts and the level of detail? Now that is where the difference lies - as you'll see


True, but some plastic minis can bend.....and this causes paint to flake....(you can add a thick layer of varnish, but this spoils the mini is glossy).

IMHO metal minis usually have more detail than plastic, but that also depends on the manufacturer of course.

se
alanmac
Visit this Community
United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 06:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text


True, but some plastic minis can bend.....and this causes paint to flake....(you can add a thick layer of varnish, but this spoils the mini is glossy).se


Hi

You are probably correct in the world of plastic figures used for wargamming, warhammer etc. or even the old Airfix 1/72 "toy soldier type" flexible plastic but as regards plastic figures in 1/35 scale I doubt if you could flex them in such a way as for the paint to flake off. More likely the figure would snap rather than bend. An arm, leg would come off from its attachment point under the strain before any flexing occurred. It's a different kind of plastic.

Alan
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 11:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

This is dependant on your local buying conditions


Hi Alan,

Funny, you know I actually put that caveat in my reply and then deleted it I agree completely. I was comparing prices in South Africa, where the price variance was much greater than the local equivalent of 90p I've just bought some Tamiya primer, but for the next can I'll check out the price of the Citadel/GW primer first


Quoted Text

True, but some plastic minis can bend.....and this causes paint to flake....


Hi Stuart,

Sure, but the painting techniques remain the same. As Alan said, you'll find that mainly the 1/72 scale figures from the likes of Airfix, Revell, ESCI. The DML Dragon Styrene has flex, as it seems more vinyl than plastic, but I haven't heard of paint flaking.

Rudi
discordian
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

This is dependant on your local buying conditions


Hi Alan,

Funny, you know I actually put that caveat in my reply and then deleted it I agree completely. I was comparing prices in South Africa, where the price variance was much greater than the local equivalent of 90p I've just bought some Tamiya primer, but for the next can I'll check out the price of the Citadel/GW primer first


Quoted Text

True, but some plastic minis can bend.....and this causes paint to flake....


Hi Stuart,

Sure, but the painting techniques remain the same. As Alan said, you'll find that mainly the 1/72 scale figures from the likes of Airfix, Revell, ESCI. The DML Dragon Styrene has flex, as it seems more vinyl than plastic, but I haven't heard of paint flaking.

Rudi


what I'll be painting are 4 figs that came with a Dragon Tiger 2 kit that I have underway. Haven't even taken them off the sprue yet so I don't' have a feel for them.
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 01:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

what I'll be painting are 4 figs that came with a Dragon Tiger 2 kit that I have underway. Haven't even taken them off the sprue yet so I don't' have a feel for them.


Hi Scott,

I believe the Tiger II you're building comes with figure set 6115 352nd Volksgrenadier Division Ardennes 1944? That'll be the traditional DML plastic, so don't worry about flaking due to flex You're not going to have any major drama given your figure painting background

Rudi
cpmstu
Visit this Community
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 25, 2009
KitMaker: 30 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 08:00 PM UTC
The 'hard' plastic minis that used by companies such as the Perry's and Vixtrix aren't prone to bending, Dragons aren't too bad either....they're quite tough.

But many 20mm scale plastic companies such as revell and Italeri do have 'bending' issues.....and this can cause the paint to 'chip' off....unless....you use a thick varnish!

se
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 08:30 PM UTC
Thanks for the info, Stuart. That certainly is useful and something to bear in mind for 1/72 scale modellers. I think in Scott's case it's a moot point though as he's painting 1/35 scale figures this time round.

As I said though, great food for thought. Thanks!

Rudi
discordian
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
Armorama: 94 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2009 - 01:43 AM UTC
yup, 1/35. I checked them out in detail last night as I started on the upper hull of the tank. Pretty solid.
thanks for all the feedback

I've the day off, my son is at day camp, my wife and daughter are going to grandma's so I'm off to the hobby shop to buy some primer.... and try to refrain from spending every dollar in wallet on other stuff....
 _GOTOTOP