was wanting to know is it a good i dea to put a wash on your figures ,i hope im not asking a dumb question,i am getting redy to start my first 1/16 scale figure a german machine gunner, any help would be great...thank you...
BUCK....
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
figure washes
buck1917
Alabama, United States
Joined: June 27, 2009
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Joined: June 27, 2009
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 03:15 AM UTC
woody6968
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 02, 2006
KitMaker: 454 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Joined: March 02, 2006
KitMaker: 454 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 03:34 AM UTC
hi there , by all means use apropriate coloured washes and blend with drybrushed highlights , this is the method i like to use ,, good luck and hope you will be posting pictoral updates
muchachos
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 21, 2008
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Joined: May 21, 2008
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 03:40 AM UTC
Yes, it is! I have a book by Calvin Tan - he does box art for Alpine miniatures, and he recommends:
undercoat in black
dry brush with white
drybrush with your base colour
Add a wash of the base colour mixed with black - or a little brown mixed in, use your judgment, as this depends on the colour of your base colour
highlight with white mixed with the base colour.
It works well - I'd post pictures, as I tried the method yesterday, and it's definitely an improvement over my previous methods.
SCOTT
undercoat in black
dry brush with white
drybrush with your base colour
Add a wash of the base colour mixed with black - or a little brown mixed in, use your judgment, as this depends on the colour of your base colour
highlight with white mixed with the base colour.
It works well - I'd post pictures, as I tried the method yesterday, and it's definitely an improvement over my previous methods.
SCOTT
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 03:46 AM UTC
No ... IMO.
Washes to get depth and shadows, may work in 1/35, but not so well in 1/16 scale. The highlights and shadows are best painted at this scale.
Calvin Tanīs method would be what I would call glazing ... thinned/transparent paints of the base colour, added successivly to build up the uniform colour ... still allowing the extreme highlights show through ... but toning them down at the same time.
Washes to get depth and shadows, may work in 1/35, but not so well in 1/16 scale. The highlights and shadows are best painted at this scale.
Calvin Tanīs method would be what I would call glazing ... thinned/transparent paints of the base colour, added successivly to build up the uniform colour ... still allowing the extreme highlights show through ... but toning them down at the same time.
buck1917
Alabama, United States
Joined: June 27, 2009
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Joined: June 27, 2009
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 04:53 AM UTC
thanks guys ,this will be my first wash...
BUCK....
BUCK....
tylusfaust
New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 18, 2005
KitMaker: 371 posts
Armorama: 217 posts
Joined: December 18, 2005
KitMaker: 371 posts
Armorama: 217 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 02:59 AM UTC
Buck,
I use washes all the time on 1/16. I use it mostly in places here it really helps darken the nooks and cranny of a figure like stitching or deep creases or even chainmail. I wash in oils and usually my wash colors are Payne's Grey and Burnt Umber. I will also use washes to blend in some camos. Hope that helps.
I use washes all the time on 1/16. I use it mostly in places here it really helps darken the nooks and cranny of a figure like stitching or deep creases or even chainmail. I wash in oils and usually my wash colors are Payne's Grey and Burnt Umber. I will also use washes to blend in some camos. Hope that helps.