Hey Gang
I am relatively new using photo etch. I saw something here a few days earlier saying something about heating it up or something. I am building a model for the first time in a long time, any info or tips I can get about using this stuff would help.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Need advise for using photo etch
Crewchief
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: July 01, 2009
KitMaker: 154 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Joined: July 01, 2009
KitMaker: 154 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Posted: Monday, August 10, 2009 - 05:41 AM UTC
wbill76
Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Monday, August 10, 2009 - 07:27 AM UTC
Charles,
Welcome to the exciting world of PE! What you are referring to is a technique called annealing that involves heating up the parts over a flame until it's red-hot then letting it air cool. The result is that it becomes softer and more easily bent to shape for things like curves or cylinders. It's not necessary to do this with every part of course and is best done selectively depending on what you're working with.
To start with the basic of PE handling, you'll need different glues to attach it. Some good options are CA glue or gel (super glue) or Gator Grip Glue (http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html ) in order to bond it properly to the kit surface.
You'll also need some good tweezers and pliers for bending and shaping if you don't want to buy a specialized bending tool like the Hold-&-Fold or Etche-mate. A sharp knife blade and a hard cutting surface will also do wonders for removing the parts from the fret and reduce the amount of clean-up/burrs you have to remove from the parts.
From there it's a case of developing your own style and techniques. Always remember that the manufacturer's try to include as much as possible on the fret to up the "value" of the set but just because it's in PE doesn't mean that it's better! A lot of the time the PE options are flat and/or less detailed in the end due to the limitations of the medium so it's a good idea to pick and choose what you want to include and not feel like you have to do everything the instructions call for.
Welcome to the exciting world of PE! What you are referring to is a technique called annealing that involves heating up the parts over a flame until it's red-hot then letting it air cool. The result is that it becomes softer and more easily bent to shape for things like curves or cylinders. It's not necessary to do this with every part of course and is best done selectively depending on what you're working with.
To start with the basic of PE handling, you'll need different glues to attach it. Some good options are CA glue or gel (super glue) or Gator Grip Glue (http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html ) in order to bond it properly to the kit surface.
You'll also need some good tweezers and pliers for bending and shaping if you don't want to buy a specialized bending tool like the Hold-&-Fold or Etche-mate. A sharp knife blade and a hard cutting surface will also do wonders for removing the parts from the fret and reduce the amount of clean-up/burrs you have to remove from the parts.
From there it's a case of developing your own style and techniques. Always remember that the manufacturer's try to include as much as possible on the fret to up the "value" of the set but just because it's in PE doesn't mean that it's better! A lot of the time the PE options are flat and/or less detailed in the end due to the limitations of the medium so it's a good idea to pick and choose what you want to include and not feel like you have to do everything the instructions call for.