How detailed are the instructions that come with these sets? I have ordered one for a DML Stug III A. I have not received it yet. I am wondering how much research I will have to do on where all the little parts go. By the way this is my first PE attempt. Yeah, I know I should have used Eduard on my first. But this was the only company I could find with a PE for a Stug III A and the thread recommending Eduard for a first attempt had not been posted when I ordered. Oh well, I am a glutton for punishment. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciatted. Also, should I wait to get my PE before I start building?

Yes, I'd say wait until the set arrives before starting to build. As sure as you glue ANY two parts together, the Aber set will have a replacement for one or both of them...-grin-

As for accuracy, I'm a reference nut. I have loads of books about most of the things I build and find them very helpful. Having said that, Aber does a good job with their instructions and you should have no trouble getting the parts onto the kit.

A set of flat jawed pliers or a pair of razor blades are also very helpful for holding and folding. Eventually, if you build lots of etch, a folding tool would be a good investment.

I use a pair of the Zuron etch cutters to trim them from the fret and the pliers and a file to clean up the edges.

Remember, Aber sometimes borders on the psychotic... working toolboxes and Panther tank gunlock chains.
-sorry for the shout-
YOU DON'T HAVE TO USE ALL THE PIECES!

and if you're not planning on opening the tool clamps and using the 1/35th scale tools, why bother making them 'workable'? Glue the puppies in place!

Have fun, stay cool..
Mike

I fully agree with what MLD has said. I am thinking of making a construction-plan in writing for the Aber set and Pak. Looking at it's instructions right now, I can see the following (comparing it too Eduard).

• Both the instructions are clear and quite easy to follow. The Aber instructions are full in black and white, while the newer Eduard instructions use color to indicate contact area's (where glue is applied) and parts to be cut away.
  
• Unlike most of the Eduard instructions, the Aber instructions do not give the number of the kit-part on the sprue. Yet drawings on the Aber instructions are clear enough to see what part is needed.from the kit, and if it needs to be reworked, they will say so, though not really how. Also, it seems, for Aber kits you might need to do a little bit more scratchbuilding.
  
• Both instructions give you the diameter of wire needed. Aber does not seem to give you exact dimentions of scratchbuild parts needed as often as Eduard does. But again, the instructions are clear enough to show you what to do.
  

Note that these comments are based only on my verylittle experience using this stuff, and on what I have read in comments form numerous modellers...

edit: I had confused Eduard and Aber in teh statement about numbered kit-parts. I have corrected it now.

I agree with the other posts except for one statement: The Eduard sets that I ahve used have all called out the number of the kit part that they are replacing. But, if they are only augmenting a certain peice, they may not call out the number, but do give a pretty good description or picture of where it should go. I haven't used Aber, so I can't comment on those.

You're right Steve. Starting to learn PE by using Aber is like learning to play the piano by practicing Mozart. It can be done, but it would be easier to start simpler. My words of advice are to remember that it is all right not to use every Aber piece.

I have just finished putting together Tamiya's Kubelwagen Type 82 and I used the Eduard PE set for it. I normally try to use all the PE parts but this time I left some of a few of them on the sprue. Some of the parts were just a but much and I didn't feel they were really necessary.

Thanks for the info everyone. I can't wait for the PE to arrive. I am sure I wil be intimidated but I know if I get stuck I have a good resource to help me (Armorama).

I am a weirdo, I am going to offer my weirdo opinion here. I for one will recommend to learn PE with Aber. The reason is although the shock at first is there, once you are comfortable with using it, then all the better, now I can do eduard PE like using original kit parts, I am not saying that I am an PE expert or anything, but in the long run it will be easier to step down than actually step up to something more difficult. My 2 cents.

203, you gonna love that Aber set, it's work of art. (++) (++) (++)

Da Truth is Outta There.

I have to agree with SS-74 here! Start with the hard stuff and it will get easier. My first real experience with PE was on the ABER 35K01 for the tiger. This set is a real test of anyones ability to do anything with PE - I lost or damaged so many parts I ended up having to buy 2 of these sets - and they are NOT cheap. Currently I am using some eduard stuff on a russian recovery vehicle. This stuff is a dream to use, so easy to cut, file shape etc. It is by NO means as detailed as ABER but a damm sight easier to work with.

Just go fot it!

Lee

I still advocate starting small, with something like one of Eduard's new Zoom sets. They only contain several items for the exterior like grills, headlight guards, and a few other things that will enhance your kit.

Although, if you have the money to spare, I guess buying two of the same sets of very expensive photo etch in order to complete one kit is an option. Personally, I'd rather save the money to spend on some other kit or even a set of Fruil tracks for the kit.

Well, I received a set of Eduard PE for a Stug III B and an Aber set for the Ausf A as well as the Aber fenders. Both sets of directions are virtually equal as far as depth and ease of understanding. But, that is where the similarity ends. The Eduard kit is great, but the Aber kit is absolutely amazingly detailed. I will keep you guys posted on my experience with the Aber kit as a first time user. Tanks for all the input and happy modelling, Steve