What Is The Best Way To Put Together Individual Tracks??
Ive been told thread, and ruller so far.. but is there a cheat, I seem kind of overwhelmed just looking at the individual tracks.

I made this pic to help explane :



Let them dry on a flat surface so then they will be easly bendalbe.

Indy link tracks can be tricky and I've had varying experiences. Some go together great and some are simply painful. For those painful ones that won't go together straight you'll have to make an assembly jig. I used some balsa strip glued to a srap of cardboard like train rails. The best method I've found is to glue together straight sections to cover the top and bottom run of track....test fitting the top before it's completely dry in order to make the right sag. Then build the ends around the front and back a little at a time, putting it on the tank before dry so it'll wrap. I do this maybe 3-4 links at a time, or one link if its big Tiger track. I like to use testors cement for this since it stays flexible for a while.
I think most of all its practice. My first set if indy links nearly kept me from buying another DML kit after that.

Fellows,

This site has 2 great features on indiv. links, look here:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/173

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/127

I hate individual links its a shame they look so much better. The link mentioned is a good resource. I build the curved potions of the track using liquid glue. This glue gives you some time to play with the track and adust the shape around the idler or drive sprocket. After this is dry I use the same glue to make the long flat pieces. A ruler helps to keep it straight. After setting the curved chunks on the idler and drive spocket I superglue the straight pieces to the curved chunks.
I think that there is no better way you just have to find somthing that works for you.

Here is a picture of the links from a trumpter t-62 model I'm doing on a maz 537 g tank transport an hopefully these methods above work or should I use white glue work instead of other glue because it stays somewhat flexible then when done brushed some lightly watered done testors glue over the whole track to strengthen it when I put the complete track done an on the tank an leave the drive sprocket off till done like in the articles mentioned above. This is just an idea I have hopefully it works.

I like the ideas an articles above helped a lot an gave me the courage to try a new modified method an without those articles I would be doing rubber tracks.thanks for the help an I appreciative it a lot wish me luck if I screw up I can always buy the aftermarket tracks for the trumpeter t-62.

Happy modeling
William DeCicco

I find the best way is a flat surface and use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Just put a length together, apply the cement, leave a minute or two, and wrap around wherever you want them. They seem to hold together just fine for me.
I make upper and lower runs and let them totally set after I drape them over wherever. You can put droop in and wrap them around idlers and drive sprockets with relative ease without the damn things falling to bits!

I use a method similar to Grifter. I actually posted it on armorama. You could always fork out a few more dollars and order a set of workable tracks.

Unfortunately, that's not always an option. For example, I know of no company that makes working tracks for the Bronco A13 Cruiser kits.

Bronco tracks are the pits. probaly the worse . Dragon one piece are great.