I am fairly new to models and am trying to get a better understanding of washes and drybrushing. I noticed on some figures, there is great detail around the fingers. I have read that this is from washing them. My question is, after the wash is applied, is there any residue on the fingers themselves, not just the cracks where the wash was intended to go? I have tried a wash and it seems that it did fill in the cracks, but also tinted everthing I laid the brush over.
What is the correct size of brush to use for a wash, or drybrushing for that matter?
Great site. Thanks for any help.
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Basic Washing Question
Wardster
United States
Joined: July 10, 2003
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: July 10, 2003
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 08:07 AM UTC
JPeiper
California, United States
Joined: November 25, 2002
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: November 25, 2002
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 08:40 AM UTC
Some purists don't "approve" of use of wash and db on figures. Bit, I am not one of them anyway. Wash... glaze..whats the diff...
Why not just highlight the hands for a final time after the wash has dried?
Your wash is not that selective. Hands on combat soldiers get pretty dirty, too!
Why not just highlight the hands for a final time after the wash has dried?
Your wash is not that selective. Hands on combat soldiers get pretty dirty, too!
Kencelot
Florida, United States
Joined: December 27, 2001
KitMaker: 4,268 posts
Armorama: 2,804 posts
Joined: December 27, 2001
KitMaker: 4,268 posts
Armorama: 2,804 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 09:26 AM UTC
First, welcome aboard Wardster. Glad to have you with us.
Washes are used mostly for darkening recesses. They help to add depth to the model and aid in details standing out.
A better way for the wash to go to the places you intend is to apply a clear gloss finish first. The gloss reduces surface tension. The wash will flow more easily into those crevices and is less likely to stain the surrounding areas. If unintended areas do get stained from the wash, you can wipe them clean with something like a Q-Tip or soft cloth.
A good size brush, that I use, is # 2 Round. Just touch the wet brush to the area you want to wash ie. panel lines, seams, between fingers etc. and the capillary action will have the wash flow right into these recesses.
Dry brushing is quite different in which it highlights raised parts and details. Adding more depth than the wash alone. They aid also in showing areas of wear. I use a chopped down # 4 Flat brush. It's chopped to add more stiffness to the brush. Choose your dry brush color - a shade or two lighter than the base and dip your brush than wipe it almost totally off onto a cloth. You want very little paint on your brush. Gently brush over the details ie. bolt heads, rivets, corners, etc till you see a highlighted effect. Start slowly with very, very little paint. You can perform several steps of dry brushing with increasingly lighter color.
I hope that helps to get you started.
Washes are used mostly for darkening recesses. They help to add depth to the model and aid in details standing out.
A better way for the wash to go to the places you intend is to apply a clear gloss finish first. The gloss reduces surface tension. The wash will flow more easily into those crevices and is less likely to stain the surrounding areas. If unintended areas do get stained from the wash, you can wipe them clean with something like a Q-Tip or soft cloth.
A good size brush, that I use, is # 2 Round. Just touch the wet brush to the area you want to wash ie. panel lines, seams, between fingers etc. and the capillary action will have the wash flow right into these recesses.
Dry brushing is quite different in which it highlights raised parts and details. Adding more depth than the wash alone. They aid also in showing areas of wear. I use a chopped down # 4 Flat brush. It's chopped to add more stiffness to the brush. Choose your dry brush color - a shade or two lighter than the base and dip your brush than wipe it almost totally off onto a cloth. You want very little paint on your brush. Gently brush over the details ie. bolt heads, rivets, corners, etc till you see a highlighted effect. Start slowly with very, very little paint. You can perform several steps of dry brushing with increasingly lighter color.
I hope that helps to get you started.
HellaYella
United States
Joined: August 27, 2003
KitMaker: 109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Joined: August 27, 2003
KitMaker: 109 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:08 PM UTC
stupid question on my part..but give an exampe (pic-wise) of dry brushing and explain the technique..I am still miffed