Good time of day, everyone,
Today, I would like to share with you the pics of my newly finished Tamiya SU-122. Built over a weekend straight out of the box, my main purpose was to attempt to simulate a haphazard whitewash application on a russian armor. This is my first ever attempt in a whitewash application so I would be very interested to know what you think of the results. Thanks.
Hosted by Jacques Duquette
My first whitewash - SU-122 finished
subjugator
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 02:34 PM UTC
Lector
Joined: April 17, 2009
KitMaker: 32 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
KitMaker: 32 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 05:45 AM UTC
Good Afternoon, subjugator,
I Think you´ve correctly applied a good example of improvised field-withewash over the model.
Just take a look at this photo:
http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php?photo=327840&cat=500
(sorry, mates: I´m not "versatile" adding images)
This kind of improvised field-withewash was/is usually applied with a brush, and the paint is diluted in a bucket. It becomes worn very quickly...
I think that for a first time it´s OK by large. Maybe now you can add some dirt over that nice white paint. I suggest to you that the next time maybe do it in a less homogeneous way... more irregular...
Cheers
I Think you´ve correctly applied a good example of improvised field-withewash over the model.
Just take a look at this photo:
http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php?photo=327840&cat=500
(sorry, mates: I´m not "versatile" adding images)
This kind of improvised field-withewash was/is usually applied with a brush, and the paint is diluted in a bucket. It becomes worn very quickly...
I think that for a first time it´s OK by large. Maybe now you can add some dirt over that nice white paint. I suggest to you that the next time maybe do it in a less homogeneous way... more irregular...
Cheers
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 05:48 AM UTC
I think it came out pretty good,now lets hear your technique.
zontar
Hawaii, United States
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 1,646 posts
Armorama: 1,557 posts
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 1,646 posts
Armorama: 1,557 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 06:18 AM UTC
I think it looks good. What was your process?
milvehfan
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 26, 2007
KitMaker: 2,116 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Joined: June 26, 2007
KitMaker: 2,116 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 06:45 AM UTC
I think you did a really good job on that whitewash. and we would all like to know how you did it ???. milvehfan
subjugator
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Joined: January 01, 2005
KitMaker: 106 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 09:48 AM UTC
Thanks a lot guys,
The application process was quite straightforward. Over a base coat of Tamiya Nato Green I have applied a thin coat of turpentine and then shredded some white pastel chalks into it using an exacto knife. The resulting white wash was then smeared on the model and allowed to dry for a couple of minutes. I was working on on surface at a time.
The dried pastel chalks were then scrubbed of using a flat and stiff brush, and the resutling streaks were further smeared with a dry q-tip to soften the effect.
Various rust stains and chips were then applied with Burnt SIenna and Raw Umber paints as well as different shades of MIG rust pigments.
The application process was quite straightforward. Over a base coat of Tamiya Nato Green I have applied a thin coat of turpentine and then shredded some white pastel chalks into it using an exacto knife. The resulting white wash was then smeared on the model and allowed to dry for a couple of minutes. I was working on on surface at a time.
The dried pastel chalks were then scrubbed of using a flat and stiff brush, and the resutling streaks were further smeared with a dry q-tip to soften the effect.
Various rust stains and chips were then applied with Burnt SIenna and Raw Umber paints as well as different shades of MIG rust pigments.